Article(id=1320880161445229164, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1260987677001138203, issueId=1320880138208784845, articleNumber=null, orderNo=null, doi=10.13386/j.issn1002-0306.2025100033, pmid=null, cstr=null, oa=null, hot=null, price=null, onlineType=0, articleFormat=0, articleType=null, articleTypeStr=null, receivedDate=1760025600000, receivedDateStr=2025-10-10, revisedDate=null, revisedDateStr=null, acceptedDate=null, acceptedDateStr=null, onlineDate=1792851971254, onlineDateStr=2026-10-24, pubDate=1785513600000, pubDateStr=2026-08-01, doiRegisterDate=null, doiRegisterDateStr=null, onlineIssueDate=1792851971254, onlineIssueDateStr=2026-10-24, onlineJustAcceptDate=null, onlineJustAcceptDateStr=null, onlineFirstDate=null, onlineFirstDateStr=null, sourceXml=null, magXml=null, createTime=1792851971254, creator=13701087609, updateTime=1792851971254, updator=13701087609, issue=Issue{id=1320880138208784845, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1260987677001138203, year='2026', volume='47', issue='15', pageStart='1', pageEnd='524', issueExtLink='null', onlineDate='null', pubDate='1785513600000', pubDateStr='2026-08-01', beforeIssueId=null, nextIssueId=null, price=null, status=1, issueComplete=1, articleOrder=1, issueType=-1, specialIssue=null, createTime=1792851965715, creator='13701087609', updateTime=1792851965715, updator='13701087609', preIssue=null, nextIssue=null, articleTotal=null, ext=null, issueFiles=null, downloadFileDto=null}, startPage=12, endPage=22, ext={EN=ArticleExt(id=1320880161948545645, articleId=1320880161445229164, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1260987677001138203, language=EN, title=Comparative Analysis of Domestic and International Coffee Cupping Standards and Future Development Envisage, columnId=1261336279195726298, journalTitle=Science and Technology of Food Industry, columnName=Papers Invited by Guest Editors, runingTitle=null, highlight=null, articleAbstract=

The quality of coffee is one of the important factors affecting the market price and consumer purchase intention of coffee, and the cupping is a way to evaluate the quality of coffee using sensory organs. Compared with the international coffee cupping standardization system, there is a significant delay in the development of coffee cupping standards in China. This article systematically reviews the development history of coffee cupping standards both domestically and internationally, comparing the technical points in several typical coffee cupping standards, analyzing the current research trends and status of coffee cupping, and finally providing suggestions for the future development of coffee cupping, in order to provide reference for the standardization development of coffee cupping.

, authors=Yake XIANG1, 2, Kui ZHONG1, 2, Lei ZHAO1, 2, Zhenyu YUN1, 2, Houyin WANG1, 2, Kai SU1, 2, Wenxin WANG1, 2, Yao ZHANG1, 2, Bolin SHI1, 2, *, authorsList=Yake XIANG, Kui ZHONG, Lei ZHAO, Zhenyu YUN, Houyin WANG, Kai SU, Wenxin WANG, Yao ZHANG, Bolin SHI, authorCompany=null, correspAuthors=Bolin SHI, authorNote=null, correspAuthorsNote=null, copyrightStatement=Copyright © 2026 Science and Technology of Food Industry. All rights reserved., copyrightOwner=null, extLink=null, articleAbsUrl=null, sourceXml=null, magXml=null, pdfUrl=null, pdf=null, pdfFileSize=null, pdfExtLink=null, richHtmlUrl=null, mobilePdfUrl=null, reviewReport=null, pdfFirstPage=null, abstractGraph=null, abstractGraphContent=null, abstractVideo=null, citation=null, cebUrl=null, magXmlContent=null, mapNumber=null, fund=null), CN=ArticleExt(id=1320880165408846456, articleId=1320880161445229164, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1260987677001138203, language=CN, title=国内外咖啡杯品标准对比分析与未来发展设想, columnId=1320880139102171600, journalTitle=食品工业科技, columnName=特邀主编专栏—标准化赋能食品及相关产品高质量发展(客座主编:云振宇、史波林、兰韬、刘鹏、赵琳), runingTitle=null, highlight=null, articleAbstract=

咖啡品质是影响咖啡市场价格和消费者购买的重要因素之一,杯品是借助感觉器官来评价咖啡品质的一种方式。与国际上的咖啡杯品标准化体系相比,国内咖啡杯品标准在制定上明显滞后。本文系统梳理了国外与国内咖啡杯品标准的发展历程,对比了几个典型咖啡杯品标准中的技术要点,分析了目前有关咖啡杯品的研究动态及现状,最终给出了咖啡杯品未来发展的建议,以期为咖啡杯品的标准化发展提供参考。

, authors=项雅科1, 2, 钟葵1, 2, 赵镭1, 2, 云振宇1, 2, 汪厚银1, 2, 苏开1, 2, 王文欣1, 2, 张瑶1, 2, 史波林1, 2, *, authorsList=项雅科, 钟葵, 赵镭, 云振宇, 汪厚银, 苏开, 王文欣, 张瑶, 史波林, authorCompany=null, correspAuthors=史波林, authorNote=

项雅科(1999−),女,硕士,助理工程师,研究方向:感官分析与标准化,E-mail:

, correspAuthorsNote=
史波林(1981−),男,博士,研究员,研究方向:感官分析与标准化,E-mail:。
, copyrightStatement=版权所有 © 2026《食品工业科技》编辑部, copyrightOwner=null, extLink=null, articleAbsUrl=null, sourceXml=iEOjRsxrxzm6/3pbZY98vw==, magXml=4Xc4vI6KO/cXyZk4dWsxjw==, pdfUrl=null, pdf=Me1kltMCu/KB6A0xgKAdVA==, pdfFileSize=10818336, pdfExtLink=null, richHtmlUrl=null, mobilePdfUrl=null, reviewReport=null, pdfFirstPage=null, abstractGraph=+oEzQjMTiMUX2P23tRxEzw==, abstractGraphContent=null, abstractVideo=null, citation=null, cebUrl=null, magXmlContent=CYziWUNa0boBJnt5EIuqeg==, mapNumber=null, fund=null)}, authors=[Author(id=1320880165815693952, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1260987677001138203, articleId=1320880161445229164, orderNo=0, firstName=null, middleName=null, lastName=null, nameCn=null, orcid=null, stid=null, country=null, authorPic=null, dead=0, email=xiangyk@cnis.ac.cn, emailSecond=null, emailThird=null, correspondingAuthor=0, authorType=1, ext={EN=AuthorExt(id=1320880165891191427, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1260987677001138203, articleId=1320880161445229164, authorId=1320880165815693952, language=EN, stringName=Yake XIANG, firstName=Yake, middleName=null, lastName=XIANG, prefix=null, suffix=null, authorComment=null, nameInitials=null, affiliation=null, department=null, xref=1, 2, address=1Key Laboratory of Food Sensory Analysis, State Administration for Market Regulation, Beijing 102200, China
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Journal of Sensory Studies, 2020, 35(6): e12604., articleTitle=null, refAbstract=null)], funds=null, companyList=[AuthorCompany(id=1320880165622755961, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1260987677001138203, articleId=1320880161445229164, xref=1, ext=[AuthorCompanyExt(id=1320880165631144570, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1260987677001138203, articleId=1320880161445229164, companyId=1320880165622755961, language=EN, country=null, province=null, city=null, postcode=null, companyName=null, departmentName=null, remark=1Key Laboratory of Food Sensory Analysis, State Administration for Market Regulation, Beijing 102200, China), AuthorCompanyExt(id=1320880165643727483, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1260987677001138203, articleId=1320880161445229164, companyId=1320880165622755961, language=CN, country=null, province=null, city=null, postcode=null, companyName=null, departmentName=null, remark=1国家市场监督管理总局重点实验室(食品感官分析),北京 102200)]), AuthorCompany(id=1320880165715030652, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1260987677001138203, articleId=1320880161445229164, xref=2, ext=[AuthorCompanyExt(id=1320880165727613565, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1260987677001138203, articleId=1320880161445229164, companyId=1320880165715030652, language=EN, country=null, province=null, city=null, postcode=null, companyName=null, departmentName=null, remark=2Division of Agricultural and Biotechnology Standardization, China National Institute of Standardization,Beijing 100191, China), AuthorCompanyExt(id=1320880165736002174, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1260987677001138203, articleId=1320880161445229164, companyId=1320880165715030652, language=CN, country=null, province=null, city=null, postcode=null, companyName=null, departmentName=null, remark=2中国标准化研究院农业与生物技术标准化研究所,北京 100191)])], figs=[ArticleFig(id=1320880174615343808, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1260987677001138203, articleId=1320880161445229164, language=EN, label=Fig.1, caption=Iconic events in the development of international coffee cupping standards system, figureFileSmall=QD1xiGJWlZtG2oLcq3Jt9g==, figureFileBig=+oEzQjMTiMUX2P23tRxEzw==, tableContent=null), ArticleFig(id=1320880174682452673, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1260987677001138203, articleId=1320880161445229164, language=CN, label=图1, caption=国外咖啡杯品标准体系发展中的标志性事件, figureFileSmall=QD1xiGJWlZtG2oLcq3Jt9g==, figureFileBig=+oEzQjMTiMUX2P23tRxEzw==, tableContent=null), ArticleFig(id=1320880174871196354, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1260987677001138203, articleId=1320880161445229164, language=EN, label=Fig.2, caption=Coffee flavor wheel (1995 edition), figureFileSmall=aK5F78284nMQrRiZo3o1Mg==, figureFileBig=LFHjMW6UJh/aQiuzkn4mpA==, tableContent=null), ArticleFig(id=1320880174946693827, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1260987677001138203, articleId=1320880161445229164, language=CN, label=图2, caption=咖啡风味轮图(1995年版)

注:图片来源于《咖啡杯测师手册》。

, figureFileSmall=aK5F78284nMQrRiZo3o1Mg==, figureFileBig=LFHjMW6UJh/aQiuzkn4mpA==, tableContent=null), ArticleFig(id=1320880175026385604, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1260987677001138203, articleId=1320880161445229164, language=EN, label=Fig.3, caption=Coffee flavor wheel (2016 edition), figureFileSmall=DyTbp/zXWll5Fb80PTzdkg==, figureFileBig=R9nonhYRct7clDhl6ak29w==, tableContent=null), ArticleFig(id=1320880175089300165, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1260987677001138203, articleId=1320880161445229164, language=CN, label=图3, caption=咖啡风味轮图(2016年版)

注:图片来源于https://sca.coffee/。

, figureFileSmall=DyTbp/zXWll5Fb80PTzdkg==, figureFileBig=R9nonhYRct7clDhl6ak29w==, tableContent=null), ArticleFig(id=1320880175156409030, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1260987677001138203, articleId=1320880161445229164, language=EN, label=Fig.4, caption=Part of the score sheet of the CVA evaluation system, figureFileSmall=FU/9uZLEHa4TvblNAjiYZg==, figureFileBig=lpzyvaAsf7A9c2RtFBGLsA==, tableContent=null), ArticleFig(id=1320880175231906503, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1260987677001138203, articleId=1320880161445229164, language=CN, label=图4, caption=CVA评价体系回答表(部分), figureFileSmall=FU/9uZLEHa4TvblNAjiYZg==, figureFileBig=lpzyvaAsf7A9c2RtFBGLsA==, tableContent=null), ArticleFig(id=1320880175315792584, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1260987677001138203, articleId=1320880161445229164, language=EN, label=Table 1, caption=

Comparison of key preparation techniques for coffee cupping

, figureFileSmall=null, figureFileBig=null, tableContent=
标准SCA-102-2024《样品制备和品尝要点》NY/T 604-2020
《生咖啡》
DB 46/T 642-2024
《中粒种咖啡(罗布斯塔) 生咖啡》
DB 5331/T 47.10-2023《德宏小粒种咖啡综合技术规程 第10部分:杯品》DB 53/T 149.6-2023
《小粒种咖啡 第6部分:
杯品》
DB 53/T 371-2012《地理标志产品 保山小粒
咖啡》
SN/T 4320-2015《出口小粒种咖啡豆检验检疫
规程》
取样量/100 g150 g样品烘焙量为烘焙设备容量的80%//100 g
烘焙程度/Agtron值Agtron值为65浅焙~浅中焙中焙,Astron值为55~60Astron值为75±3中焙,Astron值为73±3烘焙温度150~170 ℃之间,样品的烘焙色度为117~123 CTN
研磨颗粒度20#筛网通过率70%~75%0.6~0.7 mm0.85±0.05 mm(20#筛网通过率70%~75%)0.4~0.5 mm
杯品用水钙离子浓度为50~175 ppm/经过净水处理,TDS值宜为70~110 mg/LTDS值应在75~250 mg/L,最佳TDS为125~175 mg/L,不应使用蒸馏水或软化水/
冲泡过程a. 每个样品设置3~5个
杯品杯;b. 称取咖啡粉8.25 g;c. 注入150 mL温
度为93±3 ℃的开水,3~5 min后破渣。
a. 每个样品至少设置3个杯品杯;b. 称取咖啡粉10±0.2 g;c. 用180 mL
温度为90 ℃以上开水冲入杯品杯中,3~5 min后破渣。
a. 分成5等份;b. 称取
咖啡粉8.25 g;c. 注入
150 mL温度为92 ℃的
开水,在3~5 min内完成
破渣。
a. 分成至少3等份;
b. 称取咖啡粉11±0.2 g;
c. 注入200 mL沸水。
a. 分成至少3等份;
b. 按粉水比1:18(w/w)注水,水温为92~94 ℃;
4 min后破渣。
a. 称取6 g咖啡粉于150 mL的瓷碗中;b. 用刚沸的开水冲入
碗中。
), ArticleFig(id=1320880175399678665, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1260987677001138203, articleId=1320880161445229164, language=CN, label=表1, caption=

咖啡杯品样品制备技术要点对比

, figureFileSmall=null, figureFileBig=null, tableContent=
标准SCA-102-2024《样品制备和品尝要点》NY/T 604-2020
《生咖啡》
DB 46/T 642-2024
《中粒种咖啡(罗布斯塔) 生咖啡》
DB 5331/T 47.10-2023《德宏小粒种咖啡综合技术规程 第10部分:杯品》DB 53/T 149.6-2023
《小粒种咖啡 第6部分:
杯品》
DB 53/T 371-2012《地理标志产品 保山小粒
咖啡》
SN/T 4320-2015《出口小粒种咖啡豆检验检疫
规程》
取样量/100 g150 g样品烘焙量为烘焙设备容量的80%//100 g
烘焙程度/Agtron值Agtron值为65浅焙~浅中焙中焙,Astron值为55~60Astron值为75±3中焙,Astron值为73±3烘焙温度150~170 ℃之间,样品的烘焙色度为117~123 CTN
研磨颗粒度20#筛网通过率70%~75%0.6~0.7 mm0.85±0.05 mm(20#筛网通过率70%~75%)0.4~0.5 mm
杯品用水钙离子浓度为50~175 ppm/经过净水处理,TDS值宜为70~110 mg/LTDS值应在75~250 mg/L,最佳TDS为125~175 mg/L,不应使用蒸馏水或软化水/
冲泡过程a. 每个样品设置3~5个
杯品杯;b. 称取咖啡粉8.25 g;c. 注入150 mL温
度为93±3 ℃的开水,3~5 min后破渣。
a. 每个样品至少设置3个杯品杯;b. 称取咖啡粉10±0.2 g;c. 用180 mL
温度为90 ℃以上开水冲入杯品杯中,3~5 min后破渣。
a. 分成5等份;b. 称取
咖啡粉8.25 g;c. 注入
150 mL温度为92 ℃的
开水,在3~5 min内完成
破渣。
a. 分成至少3等份;
b. 称取咖啡粉11±0.2 g;
c. 注入200 mL沸水。
a. 分成至少3等份;
b. 按粉水比1:18(w/w)注水,水温为92~94 ℃;
4 min后破渣。
a. 称取6 g咖啡粉于150 mL的瓷碗中;b. 用刚沸的开水冲入
碗中。
), ArticleFig(id=1320880175487759050, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1260987677001138203, articleId=1320880161445229164, language=EN, label=Table 2, caption=

Comparison results of different standard scoring rules

, figureFileSmall=null, figureFileBig=null, tableContent=
标准评分规则
NY/T 604-2020《生咖啡》每个正面属性满分为10分——不存在(0分)、无法接受(1分)、非常差(2分)、差(3分)、尚可(4分)、一般(5分)、好(6分)、非常好(7分)、优秀(8分)、非常优秀(9分)、完美(10分)。
DB 46/T 642-2024《中粒种咖啡(罗布斯塔) 生咖啡》每个正面属性满分为10分——一般(5分)、好(6分)、非常好(7分)、精品(8分)、优质(9分),相邻之间以0.25递增。
DB 5331/T 47.10-2023《德宏小粒种咖啡综合技术规程 第10部分:杯品》每个正面属性满分为10分——差(0~3分)、尚可(4~5分)、一般(6~7分:6.25/6.50/6.75)、好(7~8分:7.25/7.50/7.75)、优秀(8~9分:8.25/8.50/8.75)、卓越(9~10分:9.25/9.50/9.75)、完美(10分)。
DB 53/T 149.6-2023《小粒种咖啡 第6部分:杯品》每个正面属性满分为10分——差(0~3分)、尚可(4~5分)、一般(6分)、好(7分)、非常好(7.5分)、优秀(8.5分)、非常优秀(9分)、完美(10分)。
DB 53/T 371-2012《地理标志产品 保山小粒咖啡》咖啡具有果味、酸味、甜味、鲜花味、浓厚度等,这些气味越浓则质量越好。烟草味、木头味等气味属不愉快气味,影响咖啡豆的质量。而化学药品味、泥土味以及发酵过度的酸败味或腐烂味称为异味,会严重降低咖啡豆的质量。
SN/T 4320-2015《出口小粒种咖啡豆检验检疫规程》
), ArticleFig(id=1320880175567450827, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1260987677001138203, articleId=1320880161445229164, language=CN, label=表2, caption=

不同标准评分规则对比结果

, figureFileSmall=null, figureFileBig=null, tableContent=
标准评分规则
NY/T 604-2020《生咖啡》每个正面属性满分为10分——不存在(0分)、无法接受(1分)、非常差(2分)、差(3分)、尚可(4分)、一般(5分)、好(6分)、非常好(7分)、优秀(8分)、非常优秀(9分)、完美(10分)。
DB 46/T 642-2024《中粒种咖啡(罗布斯塔) 生咖啡》每个正面属性满分为10分——一般(5分)、好(6分)、非常好(7分)、精品(8分)、优质(9分),相邻之间以0.25递增。
DB 5331/T 47.10-2023《德宏小粒种咖啡综合技术规程 第10部分:杯品》每个正面属性满分为10分——差(0~3分)、尚可(4~5分)、一般(6~7分:6.25/6.50/6.75)、好(7~8分:7.25/7.50/7.75)、优秀(8~9分:8.25/8.50/8.75)、卓越(9~10分:9.25/9.50/9.75)、完美(10分)。
DB 53/T 149.6-2023《小粒种咖啡 第6部分:杯品》每个正面属性满分为10分——差(0~3分)、尚可(4~5分)、一般(6分)、好(7分)、非常好(7.5分)、优秀(8.5分)、非常优秀(9分)、完美(10分)。
DB 53/T 371-2012《地理标志产品 保山小粒咖啡》咖啡具有果味、酸味、甜味、鲜花味、浓厚度等,这些气味越浓则质量越好。烟草味、木头味等气味属不愉快气味,影响咖啡豆的质量。而化学药品味、泥土味以及发酵过度的酸败味或腐烂味称为异味,会严重降低咖啡豆的质量。
SN/T 4320-2015《出口小粒种咖啡豆检验检疫规程》
), ArticleFig(id=1320880175651336908, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1260987677001138203, articleId=1320880161445229164, language=EN, label=Table 3, caption=

Comparison results of different standards for determining coffee grades

, figureFileSmall=null, figureFileBig=null, tableContent=
标准咖啡等级判定
SCA(2004版)精品咖啡:杯品评分≥80分
NY/T 604-2020《生咖啡》杯品一级:评分>80分
杯品二级:70分<评分≤80分
杯品三级:60分<评分≤70分
DB 46/T 642-2024《中粒种咖啡(罗布斯塔) 生咖啡》杯品一级:评分≥80分
杯品二级:70分≤评分<80分
杯品三级:60分≤评分<70分
DB 5331/T 47.10-2023《德宏小粒种咖啡综合技术规程 第10部分:杯品》精品一级:≥90分
精品二级:85~89.9分
精品三级:80~84.99分
优质一、二级:≥78分
商业一级:干净无异味
商业二级:微弱负面风味
商业三级及以下:明显负面风味
DB 53/T 149.6-2023《小粒种咖啡 第6部分:杯品》/
DB 53/T 371-2012《地理标志产品 保山小粒咖啡》一级:气味、品味和口感很好,具有浓郁的咖啡芳香味。
二级:气味、品味和口感好,具有较浓郁的咖啡芳香味。
三级:气味、品味和口感较差,具有较弱的咖啡芳香味。
SN/T 4320-2015《出口小粒种咖啡豆检验检疫规程》咖啡应具有果味、酸味、甜味、鲜花味、浓厚度等,越浓则质量越好
), ArticleFig(id=1320880175739417293, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1260987677001138203, articleId=1320880161445229164, language=CN, label=表3, caption=

不同标准对咖啡等级的判定对比结果

, figureFileSmall=null, figureFileBig=null, tableContent=
标准咖啡等级判定
SCA(2004版)精品咖啡:杯品评分≥80分
NY/T 604-2020《生咖啡》杯品一级:评分>80分
杯品二级:70分<评分≤80分
杯品三级:60分<评分≤70分
DB 46/T 642-2024《中粒种咖啡(罗布斯塔) 生咖啡》杯品一级:评分≥80分
杯品二级:70分≤评分<80分
杯品三级:60分≤评分<70分
DB 5331/T 47.10-2023《德宏小粒种咖啡综合技术规程 第10部分:杯品》精品一级:≥90分
精品二级:85~89.9分
精品三级:80~84.99分
优质一、二级:≥78分
商业一级:干净无异味
商业二级:微弱负面风味
商业三级及以下:明显负面风味
DB 53/T 149.6-2023《小粒种咖啡 第6部分:杯品》/
DB 53/T 371-2012《地理标志产品 保山小粒咖啡》一级:气味、品味和口感很好,具有浓郁的咖啡芳香味。
二级:气味、品味和口感好,具有较浓郁的咖啡芳香味。
三级:气味、品味和口感较差,具有较弱的咖啡芳香味。
SN/T 4320-2015《出口小粒种咖啡豆检验检疫规程》咖啡应具有果味、酸味、甜味、鲜花味、浓厚度等,越浓则质量越好
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国内外咖啡杯品标准对比分析与未来发展设想
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项雅科 1, 2 , 钟葵 1, 2 , 赵镭 1, 2 , 云振宇 1, 2 , 汪厚银 1, 2 , 苏开 1, 2 , 王文欣 1, 2 , 张瑶 1, 2 , 史波林 1, 2, *
食品工业科技 | 特邀主编专栏—标准化赋能食品及相关产品高质量发展(客座主编:云振宇、史波林、兰韬、刘鹏、赵琳) 2026,47(15): 12-22
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食品工业科技 |特邀主编专栏—标准化赋能食品及相关产品高质量发展(客座主编:云振宇、史波林、兰韬、刘鹏、赵琳) 2026 , 47 (15) : 12 -22
国内外咖啡杯品标准对比分析与未来发展设想
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项雅科1, 2 , 钟葵1, 2, 赵镭1, 2, 云振宇1, 2, 汪厚银1, 2, 苏开1, 2, 王文欣1, 2, 张瑶1, 2, 史波林1, 2, *
作者信息
  • 1国家市场监督管理总局重点实验室(食品感官分析),北京 102200
  • 2中国标准化研究院农业与生物技术标准化研究所,北京 100191
通讯作者:
史波林(1981−),男,博士,研究员,研究方向:感官分析与标准化,E-mail:。
作者简介:

项雅科(1999−),女,硕士,助理工程师,研究方向:感官分析与标准化,E-mail:

Comparative Analysis of Domestic and International Coffee Cupping Standards and Future Development Envisage
Yake XIANG1, 2 , Kui ZHONG1, 2, Lei ZHAO1, 2, Zhenyu YUN1, 2, Houyin WANG1, 2, Kai SU1, 2, Wenxin WANG1, 2, Yao ZHANG1, 2, Bolin SHI1, 2, *
Affiliations
  • 1Key Laboratory of Food Sensory Analysis, State Administration for Market Regulation, Beijing 102200, China
  • 2Division of Agricultural and Biotechnology Standardization, China National Institute of Standardization,Beijing 100191, China
出版时间: 2026-08-01 doi: 10.13386/j.issn1002-0306.2025100033
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咖啡品质是影响咖啡市场价格和消费者购买的重要因素之一,杯品是借助感觉器官来评价咖啡品质的一种方式。与国际上的咖啡杯品标准化体系相比,国内咖啡杯品标准在制定上明显滞后。本文系统梳理了国外与国内咖啡杯品标准的发展历程,对比了几个典型咖啡杯品标准中的技术要点,分析了目前有关咖啡杯品的研究动态及现状,最终给出了咖啡杯品未来发展的建议,以期为咖啡杯品的标准化发展提供参考。

咖啡  /  杯品  /  感官  /  标准对比  /  标准化发展

The quality of coffee is one of the important factors affecting the market price and consumer purchase intention of coffee, and the cupping is a way to evaluate the quality of coffee using sensory organs. Compared with the international coffee cupping standardization system, there is a significant delay in the development of coffee cupping standards in China. This article systematically reviews the development history of coffee cupping standards both domestically and internationally, comparing the technical points in several typical coffee cupping standards, analyzing the current research trends and status of coffee cupping, and finally providing suggestions for the future development of coffee cupping, in order to provide reference for the standardization development of coffee cupping.

coffee  /  cupping  /  sensory  /  comparison of standards  /  standardized development
项雅科, 钟葵, 赵镭, 云振宇, 汪厚银, 苏开, 王文欣, 张瑶, 史波林. 国内外咖啡杯品标准对比分析与未来发展设想. 食品工业科技, 2026 , 47 (15) : 12 -22 . DOI: 10.13386/j.issn1002-0306.2025100033
Yake XIANG, Kui ZHONG, Lei ZHAO, Zhenyu YUN, Houyin WANG, Kai SU, Wenxin WANG, Yao ZHANG, Bolin SHI. Comparative Analysis of Domestic and International Coffee Cupping Standards and Future Development Envisage[J]. Science and Technology of Food Industry, 2026 , 47 (15) : 12 -22 . DOI: 10.13386/j.issn1002-0306.2025100033
咖啡是世界三大饮料作物之一,其产量、消费量与经济价值在热带经济作物中占据重要地位,在世界热带农业经济、国际贸易及人类生活中发挥着关键作用,同时也是我国的重要热带经济作物[1−2]。咖啡品质是决定咖啡市场价格的重要因素[3],为了准确描述和区分不同咖啡的品质特征,研究人员多借助嗅觉、味觉等感官对咖啡品质进行客观评价,也就是在咖啡行业中常说的“杯品或杯测”。借助咖啡杯品这种方式,可以更深入地了解咖啡香气、滋味、口感等方面的感官品质特征,从而为整个咖啡生产链的高质量发展提供参考。
在种植端,咖啡品质的形成受环境、海拔[4]、土壤[5]、栽培管理、采后加工[3,6]等因素影响,通过分析咖啡杯品结果与种植条件之间的相关性,可以为高品质咖啡的种植与栽培提供理论基础。对于生产端,杯测中的评价指标对于精准评估风味品质、衡量口感特征、检测品质稳定性等具有重要意义,而这些也常被用来作为咖啡豆分级的依据[7−8]。在消费端,咖啡杯品中对风味的描述可以向消费者传递咖啡的品质特性[9],从而引导并影响消费者的消费决策[10]。同样,企业通过洞察消费者的偏好和购买意向,能够更精准地对产品进行定位,并制定相应的营销策略[11]。从一粒种子到一杯咖啡,从种植栽培到生豆分级,再到咖啡品饮,杯品在整个产业链中都发挥着至关重要的作用。
欧美咖啡标准体系是在200余年工业化社会进程的基础上建立的,而中国咖啡商业化种植始于20世纪80年代,相关国家标准制定工作明显滞后,在杯品相关的标准制定方面仍需不断完善。本文通过分析国内外咖啡杯品标准的研究现状,探索技术演变规律与技术差异点,结合新资源、新零售、新消费,探索新的咖啡感官品评方式与评价体系,以期为咖啡杯品的标准化、规范化、消费体验化发展,以及为中国咖啡行业的高质量发展和弯道超车提供参考。
咖啡杯品的原始标准最早可追溯至阿拉伯地区的传统咖啡饮用[12]。也门的“九步煮法”通过观察咖啡液的沸腾状态、泡沫形态及颜色变化判断萃取程度,这种依赖感官经验的评估方式是早期咖啡杯品的雏形。饮用时注重咖啡苦味与其他味道的平衡以及余韵,强调“黑咖啡不加糖”的理念,奠定了杯品标准中“原味品鉴”的核心原则。
16~17世纪,伊斯坦布尔的咖啡师行会对咖啡师的认证考核提出了严格的要求,包括生豆筛选、烘焙程度判断、研磨粒度控制等环节,要求咖啡师通过感官评价咖啡的“香气浓郁度”“口感顺滑度”和“余味持久性”。同时,咖啡通过欧洲的贸易路线传播至欧洲大陆,成为上流社会和新兴咖啡馆文化的重要组成部分[13],其感官体验开始被人们所认知和讨论,“泡沫持久度”“香气强度”“苦味纯净度”和“余韵持久度”被认为是评价咖啡优劣的指标。
18~19世纪,工业化初期萃取技术的发展也推动了咖啡杯品标准中参数的进一步细化。1840年出现的虹吸壶,要求咖啡师精准控制水温(92~96 ℃)、萃取时间(3~4 min)及搅拌频率,催生了早期的“时间-温度”参数标准[14]。1884年,意大利工程师Angelo Moriondo发明了第一台蒸汽萃取咖啡机,杯品开始关注咖啡的“油脂层厚度”“酸苦度平衡”和“醇厚度”,为现代意式咖啡杯品体系奠定了基础。
19世纪末,巴西、哥伦比亚等咖啡生产国开始初步按豆型大小(如PB小圆豆)、瑕疵率进行分级,这些指标间接影响杯品时的风味预期。同时,法式烘焙(深烘)与意式烘焙(极深烘)的逐渐流行,使杯品标准开始关注烘焙对风味的影响,如法式烘焙强调焦糖甜感,意式烘焙突出苦味与醇厚度。
1973年,由烘焙师Erna Knutsen主导的精品咖啡运动(Specialty Coffee Movement)推动了评估体系的革新。她提出了“精品咖啡”的概念[15],并在Tea & Coffee Trade Journal中首次将杯品标准扩展为:香气(aroma):同时区分干香(dry aroma)与湿香(wet aroma);酸度(acidity):反映地域特色(如肯尼亚的柑橘酸、埃塞俄比亚的酒石酸);醇厚度(body):通过口腔触感来量化(从“水感”到“糖浆感”);风味(flavor):首次引入“风味轮(Flavor Wheel)”辅助描述;余韵(aftertaste):关注风味持久度;平衡度(balance),体现各感官维度的协调性。
1980年前咖啡杯品标准经历了从“经验主导”到“技术驱动”再到“体系化认证”的演变。传统感官评估、萃取技术革新及早期行业法规共同构建了杯品标准的基础框架,为1980年后精品咖啡时代的标准体系建立奠定了方法论的基础。这一时期的探索不仅推动了咖啡品质提升,更塑造了咖啡文化的核心价值——对风味的追求与标准化表达。
国外咖啡杯品标准化体系的构建可追溯至1982年美国精品咖啡协会(Specialty Coffee Association of America,SCAA)的成立。以此为起点,以标准化杯测流程与评分表为核心的工具和理念得以系统性地建立与推广。至今,这套体系已在全球范围内演进、发展了四十余年,形成了SCA(精品咖啡协会)、CQI(咖啡品质研究所)的Q Grader体系以及COE(卓越杯)大赛标准等多元并存、相互影响的格局,整个过程的标志性事件如图1所示。
1982年,部分咖啡专业人士成立了美国精品咖啡协会(SCAA),旨在寻求一个共同的论坛来讨论精品咖啡贸易的问题并制定质量标准(https://sca.coffee/)。1984年,SCAA创办人之一Ted Lingle在《咖啡杯测师手册》(The Coffee Cupper's Handbook)中首次系统化提出100分制评分框架[16],明确干香、湿香、风味、余韵、酸度、醇厚度、平衡感、干净度、一致性和整体印象为正面属性指标,每项指标采用6~10分评分。还引入负面属性扣分机制:“瑕疵”扣2分、“缺陷”扣4分,总分≥80分为精品咖啡。该体系通过科学量化感官指标,推动了咖啡行业从依赖经验的模糊判断向基于感官科学的量化评估的转变,至今仍在全球范围内广泛应用。
1995年,SCAA与堪萨斯州立大学感官分析中心合作,首次发布《咖啡风味轮》[16],将原本模糊的感官描述(如果香)细化为了具体的风味描述词(如苹果、柠檬),减少了主观差异,帮助咖啡从业者更精准地沟通咖啡品质,是全球首个标准化的咖啡品鉴术语表,也被视为咖啡杯品术语标准化的里程碑。如图2所示,风味轮分为正向风味轮(正常味谱)和负向风味轮(瑕疵味谱)两个独立部分。正向风味轮包含味觉(酸、甜、咸、苦)和嗅觉(花香、果香等)描述,并将嗅觉描述按烘焙阶段排列:浅度烘焙产生酶促化反应的花香、果香类等香气,中度烘焙产生焦糖化反应的坚果、焦糖类等香气,深度烘焙产生干馏化反应的香料、木炭类香气。
1999年,SCAA经过多次对比杯测实验,对咖啡杯测制备流程进行系统性规范。如要求咖啡粉的烘焙度为Agtron 55~60,粉水比为8.25 g咖啡粉/150 mL水,冲泡用水的总可溶性固形物(TDS)为125~175 ppm,冲泡时水温约为93 ℃,浸泡4 min后除渣,同时还规范了研磨机刀盘温度、杯测容器材质、注水速度等细节。这些参数的规范化提升了咖啡杯测结果的标准化和可比性,至今仍在全球广泛使用。
1999年,卓越杯国际联盟(Alliance for Coffee Excellence,ACE)在巴西举办了首届卓越杯(Cup of Excellence,COE)竞赛[17],其评分体系在SCAA标准化的100分制的基础上进行了细化,将干香仅做描述不计入评分,更聚焦风味、干净度等核心指标,同时提高了评分精度,将6分以上的评分精确到0.5分,将7分以上的评分精确到0.25分,以便于捕捉顶级咖啡豆的细微差异,确保排名结果的公平性。借助COE竞赛,首次实现了精品咖啡评分体系的规模化落地,也为咖啡杯品体系的标准化奠定了实践基础。
2003年,咖啡品质研究所(Coffee Quality Institute,CQI)推出Q Grader认证体系,通过严格考核认证“咖啡品鉴官”(Q Grader),使杯测分数具备全球可比性[18]。Q Grader认证的核心评价方法和流程完全基于SCAA的杯测标准化体系,同时也通过全球统一的认证流程,将标准化体系转化为可执行的行业标准,推动了标准化体系在咖啡采购、竞赛评审等多场景,以及咖啡产业链各环节的应用。
2004年,SCAA发布了《咖啡杯测协议》,为咖啡的杯测建立了一套统一、标准化的流程和评分体系,如规定了杯品前咖啡制备的关键参数,以及对香气、风味、酸度、醇厚度、平衡度等品质指标的定义和评分方法。这使得全球的咖啡从业者和爱好者能够在相同的标准下对咖啡进行评估和比较,提高了评估结果的可靠性和可信度,也为咖啡的全球贸易提供了客观的品质分级依据,推动精品咖啡从区域性市场走向全球化。
2008年,国际标准化组织(ISO)发布了ISO 6668《生咖啡 感官分析样品的制备》,描述了生咖啡的烘焙、研磨,以及将咖啡粉制备成用于感官分析咖啡液的方法。最大程度地消除了样品制备环节的变量,确保了感官评价结果的准确性、可靠性和全球可比性,为整个行业提供了一个客观、公正的评价基础。
2015年,SCAA与欧洲精品咖啡协会(Specialty Coffee Association of Europe,SCAE)合并为精品咖啡协会(SCA),是全球最大的咖啡贸易协会,致力于建立全球咖啡社区平台和支持相关活动,使精品咖啡在整个产业链中蓬勃、公平和可持续地发展。
2016年,SCA和世界咖啡研究组织(World Coffee Research,WCR)合作,测试与分析了全球13个国家105个不同咖啡样本的风味,选出最具代表性的110种风味词汇,汇编成《感官词典》(Sensory Lexicon),作为新版风味轮的基础研究。通过分析它们之间的深层关系,对1995年版的风味轮进行了更新,如图3所示。新版风味轮包含了咖啡常见的9大类及85种细分类风味词汇,为咖啡行业提供了一套标准化的咖啡风味描述术语。
2024年,随着感官科学和精品咖啡行业的发展,SCA正式发布了CVA(Coffee Value Assessment)咖啡价值评估体系,取代了使用近20年的传统杯测表,如图4所示。CVA系统围绕描述性、情感性、外在属性与物理特征四项维度进行评估。通过分离描述性评估与情感性评估,降低传统杯测的主观偏差,为生产商与买家提供更全面、多维度的质量数据,同时尊重不同市场的口味偏好,促进产业链公平性。
由于咖啡是舶来品,国内对于咖啡杯品相关标准的制定起步较晚。2000年以前,国内没有专门的咖啡杯品标准,咖啡的品鉴主要依赖于进口咖啡豆商家或少数咖啡爱好者的个人经验或习惯,缺乏统一的规范和方法。
21世纪初期,一些行业组织和地方开始借鉴国际经验,尝试制定自己的行业标准或地方标准。2002年,农业部农垦局提出的行业标准NY/T 604《生咖啡》对咖啡的取样、焙炒、研磨,以及杯品过程进行了初步规范,根据评价结果对生咖啡的等级进行区分。当气味、品味和口感都很好,具有浓郁的咖啡芳香时判定为一级;当气味、品味和口感都较好,具有较强的咖啡芳香味时判定为二级;当气味、品味和口感都较差,有较弱的咖啡芳香味时判定为三级。2005年,云南省质量技术监督局发布了系列地方标准中的DB53/T 149.10《咖啡杯品》,同样对样品的制备参数进行了规定,杯品结果以1~5的分值来表示。1分表示杯品不清纯、果酸和浓厚度较差,无咖啡香,有异味;5分代表杯品清纯、果酸和浓厚度强好,具有浓郁的咖啡芳香。
初期咖啡杯品的评价规则较笼统,也有标准对评价规则稍作细化。2012年保山市质量技术监督局提出的地方标准DB 53/T 371-2012《地理标志产品 保山小粒咖啡》[19],2015年国家认证认可监督管理委员会提出的行业标准SN/T 4320-2015《出口小粒种咖啡豆检验检疫规程》[20],均规定咖啡具有的果味、酸味、甜味、鲜花味、浓厚度等越浓则质量越好。烟草味、木头味等气味属不愉快气味,影响咖啡豆的质量。而化学药品味、泥土味以及发酵过度的酸败味或腐烂味称为异味,会严重降低咖啡豆的质量。
随着国内经济的发展以及咖啡消费市场的扩大,一些国际咖啡品牌进入中国的同时带来了先进的咖啡杯品理念和方法。2020年,参考SCA的标准,农业部农垦局对行业标准NY/T 604《生咖啡》进行了更新,细化了咖啡杯品的评分规则,对于阿拉比卡和罗布斯塔咖啡使用了不同的评价属性。随后,不同地方和团体发布和更新了一系列地方标准和团体标准,如云南省农业标准化技术委员会制定的DB 53/T 149.6-2023《小粒种咖啡 第6部分:杯品》[21],云南省德宏州农业农村局制定的DB 5331/T 47.10-2023《德宏小粒种咖啡综合技术规程 第10部分:杯品》[22],厦门市食品安全工作联合会制定的T/XMSSAL 0079-2023《供厦食品 焙炒咖啡》[23],海南省农业农村厅制定的DB 46/T 642-2024《中粒种咖啡(罗布斯塔) 生咖啡》[24]等,都对咖啡杯品的制备要点和评分细则进行了规定,并且最终会根据评分结果对咖啡等级进行划分。如评分≥80分时为杯品一级;70分<评分≤80分时为杯品二级。虽然目前国内还没有咖啡杯品相关的国家标准,但有关咖啡杯品的其他标准也逐渐与国际标准接轨,使咖啡杯品更加科学、准确。
咖啡杯品的技术要点包括样品制备、冲泡用水、品评程序、结果判定等多个方面,每个环节都会影响最终的杯品结果。本研究选取了几个有代表性的标准进行了技术要点对比,并将结果汇总在表1中。
烘焙是使咖啡豆的生物活性和化学组成发生显著变化,将生豆转化为风味物质载体的过程[25]。根据烘焙程度的不同,一般分为浅烘、中烘和深烘。咖啡香气的形成也主要发生在烘焙过程中,通过一系列复杂的美拉德反应、焦糖化反应和其它热反应,咖啡生豆中的一些香气前体转化成呋喃、酮类、吡嗪、吡啶等各种风味成分,增添了咖啡的风味、酸味、余味和醇度[25−28]。
咖啡的烘焙程度可以通过咖啡豆或咖啡粉的颜色反映出来,常用Agtron值来表示咖啡豆或咖啡粉的色值。原理是使用红外线照射咖啡豆或咖啡粉,利用咖啡豆或咖啡粉中的碳化物质会吸收红外线的特性,根据反射回去的红外线程度得出数值。SCA标准中对于咖啡豆烘焙后的Agtron值的要求是65,国内标准对于烘焙程度的要求不太一致,地标DB 46/T 642-2024中要求Agtron值为55~60,而地标DB 5331/T 47.10-2023和DB 53/T 149.6-2023则要求Agtron值为70~78之间,不过在烘焙程度方面均要求在浅烘~中烘之间。也有通过测量咖啡豆反射特定红外光(904 nm)的强度来反映烘焙色度,表示为CTN值。地标DB 53/T 371-2012和行标SN/T 4320-2015中要求烘焙后咖啡豆的色度为117~123 CTN。
烘焙好的咖啡熟豆经过研磨转变为不同粒径或不同形状的颗粒,这个工艺会加速熟豆中的CO2气味和挥发性香气的释放,提高可溶性风味物质的提取率,进而影响咖啡最终的风味和口感[29]。研磨太粗时,咖啡粉的表面积小,水流通过的阻力低,萃取率也较低,容易导致咖啡液酸感突出、甜感较弱;研磨太细时,咖啡粉的表面积大,萃取率较高,容易导致咖啡液苦涩感加重。
不同标准对于研磨度的要求也不同,地标DB 53/T 371-2012和行标SN/T 4320-2015对研磨颗粒度的要求为0.4~0.5 mm,行标NY/T 604-2020和地标DB 46/T 642-2024对研磨颗粒度的要求为0.6~0.7 mm,而地标DB 5331/T 47.10-2023和DB 53/T 149.6-2023则与SCA保持一致,对研磨颗粒度的要求为20#筛网通过率70%~75%。
咖啡粉是以水为介质进行冲泡,冲泡用水的化学成分会直接影响咖啡的萃取效率、风味物质的溶解与呈现,甚至改变最终的感官体验。SCA规定杯品用水的钙离子浓度为50~175 ppm,地标DB 5331/T 47.10-2023和DB 53/T 149.6-2023则对杯品用水的可溶性固形物含量做出了要求,分别为70~110 mg/L和125~175 mg/L。
为了保证杯测结果的准确性和可靠性,每个样品会设置3~5个杯品杯。咖啡粉的冲泡即为咖啡粉的萃取过程,其中粉水比和水温是萃取过程的核心参数,直接决定咖啡风味物质的溶解率与平衡度。
粉水比是咖啡冲泡过程中咖啡粉与冲泡用水的质量之间的比例,与粉水比相关的研究表明,使用高比例的粉水比制作的浓缩咖啡的咖啡因、绿原酸含量会增加,但与苦涩味、焦味、刺鼻味等不良风味有关的化合物含量也会增加,导致咖啡风味变差[30]。地标DB 53/T 371-2012和行标SN/T 4320-2015要求称取6 g咖啡粉于150 mL的瓷碗中,粉水比为1:25;行标NY/T 604-2020和地标DB 53/T 149.6-2023要求粉水比为1:18;而地标DB 46/T 642-2024和DB 5331/T 47.10-2023则与SCA保持一致,要求粉水比为1:18.18。
水温对于咖啡冲泡过程中化合物的提取也有着重要作用[31]。一方面,较高的温度可以增加水分子的动能,提高流动性,从而提升化合物的提取率[32];另一方面,较高的温度有助于促进强挥发性物质的释放[33]。Bonnaffoux等[34]研究发现,使用温度为≥96 ℃的水制成的咖啡中存在较高浓度的愈创木酚和吡嗪等化合物,这些化合物与烟熏、坚果等风味有关[35]。当咖啡冲泡温度较低时,咖啡的总固形物含量、提取率较低[36]。在88~93 ℃范围内增加温度会提高咖啡因和绿原酸的含量,此时冲泡的咖啡风味较平衡,品质较好[37]。在水温方面:地标DB 5331/T 47.10-2023、DB 53/T 371-2012和行标SN/T 4320-2015要求使用沸水,而SCA、行标NY/T 604-2020、地标DB 46/T 642-2024和地标DB 53/T 149.6-2023则要求使用90~94 ℃的水进行冲泡。
行标NY/T 604-2020、地标DB 46/T 642-2024、DB 5331/T 47.10-2023和DB 53/T 149.6-2023与SCA规定的杯品程序(2004版)均是根据咖啡粉或咖啡液的存在状态与温度变化对咖啡进行分段评价,且在香气维度上的评价程序一致,均为在注水前对干香属性进行评价,注水后到破渣前对湿香属性进行评价。
虽然行标NY/T 604-2020与SCA规定的杯品程序(2004版)一致,不过行标NY/T 604-2020在杯品中根据咖啡豆的品种设置了不同的评价属性,而SCA规定的杯品程序(2004版)多用于阿拉比卡咖啡的评价。评价顺序为:在温度降至70~60 ℃时,将咖啡液吸入口腔聚焦挥发性物质和基础味觉,评价风味、回味、酸度(阿拉比卡咖啡)或咸/酸味(罗布斯塔咖啡)、醇厚度(阿拉比卡咖啡)或粗滑口感(罗布斯塔咖啡)、平衡性并打分;在冲泡温度降至40 ℃左右时再次品尝,给甜度(阿拉比卡咖啡)或苦/甜味(罗布斯塔咖啡)、干净度、一致性及总体性打分。地标DB 46/T 642-2024要求苦/甜度在第一次品尝时进行评价,平衡性在第二次品尝时进行评价,其他指标评价顺序与行标NY/T 604-2020一致。
地标DB 5331/T 47.10-2023和DB 53/T 149.6-2023则要求在不同温度下对咖啡进行三次品尝,分别为70~60、50~40 ℃以及室温,评价指标均为风味、酸度、甜度、醇厚度、平衡度、干净度、一致性、余韵和总体性。
所有评价体系在考察正面属性的同时,也设有对负面属性的评估标准。具体而言,若在湿香中察觉明显异味,则判定为瑕疵;若在品尝时发现令人不悦的缺陷滋味,则判定为缺陷。
每个正面属性的满分均为10分,干香和湿香合起来作为一个属性,不同标准对于打分的精度要求也不同。SCA规定的杯品程序(2004版)中香气、风味、回味、酸度、醇厚度、平衡性和总体性的打分范围为6~10分,相邻之间以0.25递增;甜度、一致性和干净度用来评价每支咖啡5个杯品杯之间的一致性,若有一杯不一致则扣2分。行标NY/T 604-2020、地标DB 46/T 642-2024、地标DB 5331/T 47.10-2023、地标DB 53/T 149.6-2023、地标DB 53/T 371-2012和行标SN/T 4320-2015中的评分规则如表2所示。
标准中对于负面属性的评分规则一致,均为瑕疵计2分,缺陷计4分。
咖啡最终的杯品评分为正面属性总分与负面属性总分作差,负面属性为用2或4乘以相应的瑕疵或缺陷杯数后两者相加作为负面属性总分。根据咖啡的杯品评分结果确定咖啡的级别,各标准对咖啡等级的判定结果如表3所示。
SCA在2024年发布的CVA评价体系与上述评分方法有很大不同,在杯品方面主要有描述性评价和情感性评价。描述性评价一方面是对咖啡样品的干香、湿香、风味、余韵、酸度、甜度和口感属性的强度进行评价,采用的评价方法是15点线性标度;另一方面是采用适合项全选法(CATA法)对香气类型、味觉类型和口感类型进行勾选。
描述性评价是一种相对客观的评价方式,而情感性评价则是基于杯测师的主观体验对咖啡样品的干香、湿香、风味、余韵、酸度、甜度、口感和整体性属性的品质进行评价,采用的评价方法是9点标度,1分代表非常差,9分代表非常好。在评价的同时还要记录是否存在不一致或有缺陷的样品,并把缺陷类型标记出来。
最终的杯品评分是基于情感性评价得到的,统计8个属性的品质评价结果之和以及存在不一致或有缺陷的样品杯数,带入公式进行换算即可得到咖啡最终的杯测分数。
与2004年的杯测体系相比,CVA评价体系在保持物理特征评价的基础上,不仅从客观描述与主观情感维度对咖啡质量与品质进行评价,还引入了外在信息,使评价结果更全面,也使不同咖啡间的差异更清晰,便于消费者从多个维度了解咖啡品质,并进行产品选择。
咖啡杯品作为精品咖啡品质评鉴的核心手段,其中风味和口感是评价一杯咖啡品质的关键指标之一[38],影响咖啡风味和口感品质的因素以及形成咖啡风味和口感品质的物质基础也是历年的研究重点。
不同品种的咖啡豆具有不同的风味特点,阿拉比卡咖啡豆酸味明显、香气浓郁,而罗布斯塔咖啡豆的苦涩味更重[39−40]。采摘下来的咖啡鲜果必须经过一系列处理步骤才能变成可以烘焙的咖啡生豆,不同的处理方式也会对最终咖啡的香气产生影响,陈云兰等[41]采用湿法加工酶法处理云南阿拉比卡咖啡,参照SCA咖啡杯测评定方法对咖啡杯品质量进行评价,结果发现采用酶法处理所得咖啡豆的杯品质量与传统发酵脱胶所得咖啡豆的杯品质量总体趋于一致。咖啡不同种植区域的地形地势、气候条件[42],决定了咖啡豆生长过程中积累的糖分、酸类、芳香物质的种类和比例,最终也导致咖啡香气上存在差异。胡荣锁等[43]采用顶空固相微萃取气相色谱-质谱联用技术和香气活度值确定了云南临沧产区咖啡干香特征组分,这些化合物为临沧咖啡赋予了蜂蜜、奶油、花香、烤坚果等风味,同时邀请专业咖啡杯测师按照SCA规定的操作流程对不同采集地点的临沧咖啡进行感官评价,发现临沧咖啡的杯品质量受种植区域环境影响较大。胡荣锁等[44]采用同样的方法解析了普洱产区咖啡的干香感官特征,并对普洱产区14个区域的咖啡进行杯测,发现普洱咖啡整体品质较高,且整体风味较接近。此外,冲泡方法和冲泡条件也会导致咖啡形成不同的感官特征。刘迪等[45]研究了不同冲泡参数对法压热冲海南罗布斯塔咖啡感官品质的影响,结果显示咖啡喜好度在粉水比为1:5(m/m)、研磨度为8、冲泡水温为92 ℃、冲泡时间为6 min时达到最高。同时采用定量描述分析方法对咖啡样品进行感官评价,发现海南中度烘焙罗布斯塔咖啡呈现出浓郁的巧克力香、强烈的烟熏味及淡淡的泥土味。
由于常规的咖啡杯品是一个相对主观且耗时较长的过程,杯品结果易受评价员个人偏好和感官疲劳的影响,而气相色谱-质谱联用(GC-MS)、液相色谱-质谱联用(LC-MS)、近红外光谱等化学分析技术,能够客观、准确地提供咖啡的化学成分信息。近年来对大数据使用复杂计算处理的机器学习方法进入快速发展期[46],利用机器学习技术将咖啡的化学数据与感官评价数据进行关联,建立预测模型实现对咖啡感官特性的客观和精准评价也成为了研究人员关注的热点。
Baqueta等[47]测定烘焙后咖啡粉的近红外光谱(NIR),基于PLS算法建立NIR光谱与咖啡感官属性的回归模型,可快速、准确地预测巴西咖啡的多种感官属性。Agnoletti等[48]采用HS-SPME-GC/MS鉴定咖啡中的挥发性风味物质,同时按照SCA杯测方法进行感官评价,结合多元校正方法构建模型预测阿拉比卡咖啡的感官品质;结果显示,模型预测精度与SCA杯测方法的分辨率相匹配,并且香气属性的PLS模型表现最佳,预测决定系数(R2p)达到了0.8503。de Paulo等[49]通过1H NMR光谱技术获取咖啡的脂肪酸、咖啡因、绿原酸等化学信息,结合OPS变量选择方法和多元校正模型(PLS和SVR),客观预测咖啡的关键感官属性,结果显示OPS通过减少冗余变量,降低模型复杂度,使预测误差(RMSEP)控制在0.20~0.35,同样符合SCA杯测方法的0.25分增量标准。
咖啡作为一种全球性饮品,其感官品质是消费者选择和市场接受度的重要决定因素,虽然专业的杯品方法能精准评价咖啡的感官属性特点,但是存在难以反映普通消费者真实感知的问题。如咖啡风味轮中的术语可以全面的展现咖啡的风味特点,但对于消费者来说较难理解和把握。基于消费者的快速感官分析方法能更直接反映消费者视角,近年来也更多被广泛应用在咖啡的感官品质评价中。
Yoon等[50]将适合项全选法(CATA)和自选特性排序剖面法(FP)用于即饮咖啡的感官品质评价,发现CATA具有简单、高效、易实施的优点,FP能够捕捉消费者自发产生的描述词,更贴近真实的消费者视角。Wang等[51]将一种新型方法:对照样-适合项全选法(Pivot-CATA)用于速溶黑咖啡的感官品质评价,结果表明Pivot-CATA数据收集时间较短、实验过程较易操作,能够反映样品间属性强度的差异,且对相似样品也具有较强的区分能力。由于咖啡品饮是一个动态的感知过程,将感官特性与时间联系起来的动态感官描述方法也逐渐应用在咖啡行业中[52]。Mccain-Keefer等[53]采用动态适合项全选法(TCATA)分析了不同类型冷萃咖啡的感官属性随时间的变化,探索了咖啡整体的饮用体验,也为冷萃咖啡的产品开发和市场定位提供了科学依据。
在咖啡杯品标准方面,国内目前只有农业部农垦局提出的行业标准NY/T 604《生咖啡》和部分地方标准,还没有制定相应的国家标准,与国际上的咖啡杯品标准体系相比存在巨大差距,国内相关机构和企业需要学习、借鉴国际上咖啡标准化体系建立的经验与成果,积极开展咖啡感官相关标准的研究和制定工作,努力与国际接轨,从而提升我国在国际市场上的竞争力和话语权。同时,标准的制定也要更好地识别和保护因独特风土、品种、传统处理法产生的风味与感官特征,避免“标准化”带来的感官同质化。
在咖啡杯品方法维度,基于咖啡是以市场为导向并最终为消费者服务的产品,亟需建立一套简洁、易于推广、适用于消费者的感官评价方法,与专业杯品方法形成互补体系,也是提升产品竞争力、优化体验、精准定位的关键。且在评价指标制定上应更符合消费者的风味认知和表达习惯,在评价方法上应更加注重消费者饮用全过程,以便全面表征咖啡感官品质,提升消费者的饮用体验。
最后,人工智能(AI)技术的快速发展也为咖啡行业带来了前所未有的机遇和挑战,AI技术通过对咖啡样品进行分子分析、光谱检测,更精准地预测感官参数,提高感官分析的客观性和可重复性。但由于咖啡的感官特征是一个复杂的多维属性,涉及香气、滋味、口感等多个方面,而AI在处理这些非线性关系时存在一定的局限性,所以这方面的探索仍面临巨大挑战。合理应用AI技术,不仅能提升咖啡品质评价的科学性和效率,还可以为消费者提供个性化和便捷化的服务。未来,咖啡行业与AI技术的深度融合也将成为行业发展的必然趋势。

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2026年第47卷第15期
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doi: 10.13386/j.issn1002-0306.2025100033
  • 接收时间:2025-10-10
  • 首发时间:2026-10-24
  • 出版时间:2026-08-01
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  • 收稿日期:2025-10-10
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    1国家市场监督管理总局重点实验室(食品感官分析),北京 102200
    2中国标准化研究院农业与生物技术标准化研究所,北京 100191

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史波林(1981−),男,博士,研究员,研究方向:感官分析与标准化,E-mail:。
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2种不同金属材料的力学参数
科
Family
属数
Number of
genus
种数
Number of
species
占总种数比例
Percentage of
total species (%)
属
Genus
种数
Number of
species
占总种数比例
Percentage of total
species (%)
鹅膏菌科Amanitaceae 2 11 5.26 鹅膏菌属 Amanita 10 4.78
小菇科 Mycenaceae 2 12 5.74 丝盖伞属 Inocybe 5 2.39
多孔菌科 Polyporaceae 8 14 6.70 蜡蘑属 Laccaria 5 2.39
红菇科 Russulaceae 3 23 11.00 小皮伞属 Marasmius 6 2.87
小菇属 Mycena 11 5.26
光柄菇属 Pluteus 5 2.39
红菇属 Russula 17 8.13
栓菌属 Trametes 5 2.39
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