Research results on rogue waves are abundant, but the resolution of the physical mechanisms behind them still lacks clarity. Common mechanisms for generating rogue waves include temporal focusing due to dispersion, spatial focusing, the effect of modulation instability, and the interaction among waves (
Pelinovsky and Kharif, 2016;
Li et al., 2020;
Ma et al., 2020;
He et al., 2021), essentially unfolding; these mechanisms cover two main scopes: traditional linear wave theory that based on the assumption of a smooth stochastic process and nonlinear generation theory based on kinetic methods. Although these theories can intuitively illustrate the generation of rogue waves and be described in kinematic way, they do not involve nonlinear dynamical processes such as wave breaking and wave interactions (
Liu et al., 2013), and cannot explain the strong transient characteristics of rogue waves. Therefore, we analyzed the current generation mechanism of rogue waves in indicates the strong nonlinearity of rogue waves, and the suddenness nature reflects the instability of the wave motion. From a kinetic point of view, wave motion is affected by external forces such as gravity, wind forcing, and bottom friction. It is difficult for an external drive to input a large amount of energy to the wave in a short period, whereas the enormous and sudden nature of rogue waves energy in the ocean indicates that the external drive is a pre-triggering factor for the generation of rogue waves (
Ke et al., 2021).
Touboul et al. (2006) first considered the effect of wind field forcing on the generation of rogue waves, and their results show that the effect of wind field forcing on the generation of rogue waves is weak, and more effects are build up before the generation of rogue waves.
Davis (1966) simulated focused waves based on the dispersion-focusing mechanism by adjusting the phase of each component of a wave to focus on a specific moment.
Zhao et al. (2009) investigated the rogue wave evolution in three dimensions in numerical and physical simulation experiments. Based on the theory of the Benjamin-Feir instability,
Dyachenko and Zakharov (2005) scrutinized the instability of Stokes waves under sideband perturbation conditions and analyzed the process of rogue wave evolution.
Onorato et al. (2004) defined the Benjamin-Feir index (BFI) and simulated a random wave train with different BFIs in a wave flume experiment, and concluded that the BFI is an important parameter indicating the generation of rogue waves.
Li et al. (2020) concluded by conducting numerical experiments that when the wave steepness parameter exceeds 0.1, the modulation instability caused by higher-order nonlinear effects can lead to a sudden increase of the wave packet energy of more than 40% within several times the wave period.
Zakharov (1968) investigated the nonlinear modulation of deep-water wave trains using wave Hamiltonian theory combined with the third-order nonlinear Schrödinger equation.
Kriebel et al. (2000) proposed a two-wave train superposition model, in which the fundamental and transient wave trains are superimposed to produce rogue waves, explored the physical mechanisms related to wave instability in detail, and laid the foundation for the in-depth study of rogue waves. However, owing to the scarcity of measured wave data, most current generation mechanisms for rogue waves are based on numerical and physical modeling experiments. In real marine environment, the formation of rogue waves may involve a combination of multiple mechanisms, and ocean waves have significant randomness, so there is a certain difference between the theoretical and real sea conditions. Field observations can provide empirical support for research on the statistical characteristics and generation mechanisms of rogue waves. Based on 10-year observational data from the Norwegian Sea,
Fu et al. (2024) analyzed more than 1 million unidirectional wave clusters measured in the deep waters of the Norwegian Sea, and for the first time, they classified the wave clusters into two categories: normal wave clusters and rogue wave clusters based on whether they contained rogue waves. They found that both the distributions of the non-dimensional group energy and group duration followed the generalized extreme value functions. Moreover, the statistics of wave groups are significantly influenced by the spectral width, and the effect of wave steepness was negligible.
Knobler et al. (2022) statistically analyzed deep-water buoy observational data from two severe storms in the Eastern Mediterranean Sea in 2017 and 2018, and found that the maximum waves in this sea area had similar characteristics to typical rogue waves such as Draupner, Andrea, and EI Faro, in which the second order bound nonlinearities enhanced the linear dispersive focusing of rogue waves. The above observational studies revealed regional differences in energy distribution, morphological characteristics, and risk probability of rogue waves in different sea areas, and provided important observational benchmark data for the study of rogue waves.