收藏切换
A new model of wave energy dissipation for multiple wave breaking on very mild beach
收藏切换
PDF
Sheng Yan1, Zhili Zou1, *
Haiyang Xuebao | 2020, 42(9) : 30 - 37
Less
收藏切换
Haiyang Xuebao | 2020, 42(9): 30-37
Physical Oceanography, Marine Meteorology and Marine Physics
A new model of wave energy dissipation for multiple wave breaking on very mild beach
Full
Sheng Yan1, Zhili Zou1, *
Affiliations
  • 1 State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116024, China
Published: 2020-09-25 doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2020.09.004
Outline
收藏切换

On a coastal beach of very mild slope (close to or less than 1∶100), the multiple wave breaking may occur when waves propagate to the coast, companied by the wave recovery process between two breaking. In the current models for calculation of wave height, the wave breaking is usually simulated by the wave energy dissipation. But the establishment of energy dissipation describing wave breaking effect in these models did not automatically take the multiple wave breakings into account, and especially did not accurately simulate the wave recovery in this process. The present study presents a new model of the wave energy dissipation which can overcome this problem. The model is established by re-determining the stable wave energy, the saturated wave height-depth ratio and the dissipation coefficient and by introducing the judgment condition for the occurrence of wave recovery. The model has a very small value of the energy dissipation over wave recovery region and can properly describe the wave motion in wave recovery process. Comparison with measured wave heights shows that the model can give the wave heights on the plane and barred beaches of various bottom slopes (1∶10 to 1∶100), which agree well with the measurement, especially the multiple wave breaking and wave recovery process can be recognized automatically in the numerical simulations.

wave recovery  /  wave breaking  /  wave energy dissipation  /  mild plane beach  /  barred beach
Sheng Yan, Zhili Zou. A new model of wave energy dissipation for multiple wave breaking on very mild beach[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 2020 , 42 (9) : 30 -37 . DOI: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2020.09.004
Year 2020 volume 42 Issue 9
PDF
83
37
Cite this Article
BibTeX
Article Info
doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2020.09.004
  • Receive Date:2020-02-12
  • Online Date:2026-03-27
  • Published:2020-09-25
Article Data
Affiliations
History
  • Received:2020-02-12
  • Revised:2020-07-15
Funding
Affiliations
    1 State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116024, China
References
Share
https://castjournals.cast.org.cn/joweb/hyxb/EN/10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2020.09.004
Share to
QR

Scan QR to access full text

Cite this article
BibTeX
Citations
表12种不同金属材料的力学参数

Family
属数
Number of
genus
种数
Number of
species
占总种数比例
Percentage of
total species (%)

Genus
种数
Number of
species
占总种数比例
Percentage of total
species (%)
鹅膏菌科Amanitaceae 2 11 5.26 鹅膏菌属 Amanita 10 4.78
小菇科 Mycenaceae 2 12 5.74 丝盖伞属 Inocybe 5 2.39
多孔菌科 Polyporaceae 8 14 6.70 蜡蘑属 Laccaria 5 2.39
红菇科 Russulaceae 3 23 11.00 小皮伞属 Marasmius 6 2.87
小菇属 Mycena 11 5.26
光柄菇属 Pluteus 5 2.39
红菇属 Russula 17 8.13
栓菌属 Trametes 5 2.39
关闭全屏
  • BibTeX
  • EndNote
  • RefWorks
  • TxT