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Research on laboratory generation method of controllable deep water breaking waves
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Qingren Xue1, Shuxiu Liang1, *, Yuanyuan Xu1, Zhaochen Sun1
Haiyang Xuebao | 2023, 45(4) : 46 - 56
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Haiyang Xuebao | 2023, 45(4): 46-56
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Research on laboratory generation method of controllable deep water breaking waves
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Qingren Xue1, Shuxiu Liang1, *, Yuanyuan Xu1, Zhaochen Sun1
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  • 1State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116024, China
Published: 2023-03-31 doi: 10.12284/hyxb2023063
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Deep water breaking wave is usually generated by the wave focusing method in laboratory. A wave with a significantly increased height can be generated by the superposition of components so that wave breaks when the steepness exceeds the limit value. However, using this method, the number of wave breaking is usually not unique leading to less obvious field characteristics after breaking and it’s hard to set research cases due to the difficulty in selecting wave-making parameters. As a result, the effect and efficiency of elaborate deep water wave breaking experiments is affected directly. Theoretical wave surface was calculated by the theory of wave focusing method and theoretical wave steepness was calculated using the wave height and wavelength defined by up-cross-zero method in this paper. On the other hand, wave breaking times and intensity were obtained from the physical experiments. The JONSWAP spectrum was used as the input spectrum and the effects of wave-making parameters, such as focusing amplitude, spectrum peak frequency, frequency bandwidth, on wave breaking were discussed so as to establish an approximate quantitative relationship between breaking times and input parameters. The research conclusions can provide a reference for selection of wave-making parameters so that the efficiency of the experiment can be improved.

wave focusing method  /  JONSWAP spectrum  /  deep water wave breaking  /  breaking times
Qingren Xue, Shuxiu Liang, Yuanyuan Xu, Zhaochen Sun. Research on laboratory generation method of controllable deep water breaking waves[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 2023 , 45 (4) : 46 -56 . DOI: 10.12284/hyxb2023063
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Year 2023 volume 45 Issue 4
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Article Info
doi: 10.12284/hyxb2023063
  • Receive Date：2021-12-01
  • Online Date：2025-12-26
  • Published：2023-03-31
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  • Received：2021-12-01
  • Revised：2022-11-09
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    1State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116024, China
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表12种不同金属材料的力学参数
科
Family		 属数
Number of
genus		 种数
Number of
species		 占总种数比例
Percentage of
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Genus		 种数
Number of
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鹅膏菌科Amanitaceae 2 11 5.26 鹅膏菌属 Amanita 10 4.78
小菇科 Mycenaceae 2 12 5.74 丝盖伞属 Inocybe 5 2.39
多孔菌科 Polyporaceae 8 14 6.70 蜡蘑属 Laccaria 5 2.39
红菇科 Russulaceae 3 23 11.00 小皮伞属 Marasmius 6 2.87
小菇属 Mycena 11 5.26
光柄菇属 Pluteus 5 2.39
红菇属 Russula 17 8.13
栓菌属 Trametes 5 2.39
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