Analysis of wave shoaling and shore-breakers on a low tide terrace beach based on in-situ measurements at Xisha Bay on South China coast
1 The National Key Laboratory of Water Disaster Prevention, Hohai University, Nanjing 210024, China
2 College of Harbour, Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Hohai University, Nanjing 210024, China
3 State Key Laboratory of Estuarine and Coastal Research, East China Normal University, Shanghai 200241, China
4 Third Institute of Oceanography, Ministry of Natural Resources, Xiamen 361005, China
5 Shanghai Waterway Engineering Design and Consulting Co., Ltd, Shanghai 200120, China
6 Yellow River Institute of Hydraulic Research, Yellow River Conservancy Commission, Zhengzhou 450000, China
7 Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute, Nanjing 210029, China
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