药学学报

Ingredient	Category	Name	CAS number
Oil	Synthetic oil	Squalane	111-01-3
	Synthetic oil	GTCC	65381-09-1
	Synthetic oil	IPP	142-91-6
	Synthetic oil	Silicone oil	63148-62-9
	Mineral oil	Liquid paraffin	8012-95-1
	Mineral oil	Vaseline	8009-03-8
	Mineral oil	Ceresin wax	8002-74-2
	Mineral oil	Ozocerite	12198-93-5
	Mineral oil	Microcrystalline wax	8001-75-0
	Vegetable oil	Olive oil	8001-25-0
	Vegetable oil	Shea butter	68424-60-2
	Vegetable oil	Lauric acid	143-07-7
	Vegetable oil	Myristate	544-63-8
	Vegetable oil	Palmitic acid	57-10-3
	Vegetable oil	Stearin	111-61-5
	Vegetable oil	Oleic acid	112-80-1
	Vegetable oil	Linoleic acid	60-33-3
	Animal oil	Lanolin	8006-54-0
	Animal oil	Triglyceride	538-24-9
Polymer	Inorganic water-soluble polymer	Aluminum magnesium silicate	12511-31-8
	Inorganic water-soluble polymer	Sodium magnesium silicate	53320-86-8
	Organic semi synthetic polymers	Carboxymethyl cellulose	9000-11-7
	Organic semi synthetic polymers	Hydroxyethyl cellulose	9004-62-0
	Organic semi synthetic polymers	Hydroxypropyl cellulose	9004-64-2
	Organic semi synthetic polymers	Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate	9087-61-0
	Organic synthetic polymer	Polyethylene glycol	25322-68-3
	Organic synthetic polymer	Polyvinylpyrrolidone	9003-39-8
	Organic synthetic polymer	Carbomer	54182-57-9
	Organic synthetic polymer	Polyacrylamide	9003-05-8
	Organic natural polymer	Xanthan gum	11138-66-2
	Organic natural polymer	Guar gum	9000-30-0
Preservative	Nipagin esters	Methyl hydroxybenzoate	99-76-3
	Nipagin esters	Ethylparaben	120-47-8
	Nipagin esters	Propylparaben	94-13-3
	Nipagin esters	Butylparaben	94-26-8
	-	Sodium benzoate	532-32-1
		DMDM hydantoin	6440-58-0
		Imidazolidinyl urea	39236-46-9
		Pentanediol	5343-92-0
		Hexanediol	629-11-8
		Octanediol	629-41-4
Co-emulsifier	-	Glycerine	56-81-5
		Cetyl alcohol^{[7, 11, 35]}	36653-82-4
		Octadecanol^{[35, 38]}	112-92-5
		Cetostearyl alcohol^[35]	67762-27-0
		Sodium hydrogen N-(1-oxooctadecyl)-L-glutamate^[16]	79811-24-8
		Sodium dodecyl sulfate^[16]	151-21-3
Humectant	-	Glycerine	56-81-5
		Propylene glycol	57-55-6
		1, 3-Butanediol	107-88-0
		Polyethylene glycol	25322-68-3
		Sorbitol	50-70-4
		Lactic acid & sodium lactate	50-21-5; 72-17-3
		Sodium PCA-Na	28874-51-3
		Sodium hyaluronate	9067-32-7

Ingredient

Category

Name

CAS number

Oil

Synthetic oil

Squalane

111-01-3

Synthetic oil

GTCC

65381-09-1

Synthetic oil

IPP

142-91-6

Synthetic oil

Silicone oil

63148-62-9

Mineral oil

Liquid paraffin

8012-95-1

Mineral oil

Vaseline

8009-03-8

Mineral oil

Ceresin wax

8002-74-2

Mineral oil

Ozocerite

12198-93-5

Mineral oil

Microcrystalline wax

8001-75-0

Vegetable oil

Olive oil

8001-25-0

Vegetable oil

Shea butter

68424-60-2

Vegetable oil

Lauric acid

143-07-7

Vegetable oil

Myristate

544-63-8

Vegetable oil

Palmitic acid

57-10-3

Vegetable oil

Stearin

111-61-5

Vegetable oil

Oleic acid

112-80-1

Vegetable oil

Linoleic acid

60-33-3

Animal oil

Lanolin

8006-54-0

Animal oil

Triglyceride

538-24-9

Polymer

Inorganic water-soluble polymer

Aluminum magnesium silicate

12511-31-8

Inorganic water-soluble polymer

Sodium magnesium silicate

53320-86-8

Organic semi synthetic polymers

Carboxymethyl cellulose

9000-11-7

Organic semi synthetic polymers

Hydroxyethyl cellulose

9004-62-0

Organic semi synthetic polymers

Hydroxypropyl cellulose

9004-64-2

Organic semi synthetic polymers

Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate

9087-61-0

Organic synthetic polymer

Polyethylene glycol

25322-68-3

Organic synthetic polymer

Polyvinylpyrrolidone

9003-39-8

Organic synthetic polymer

Carbomer

54182-57-9

Organic synthetic polymer

Polyacrylamide

9003-05-8

Organic natural polymer

Xanthan gum

11138-66-2

Organic natural polymer

Guar gum

9000-30-0

Preservative

Nipagin esters

Methyl hydroxybenzoate

99-76-3

Nipagin esters

Ethylparaben

120-47-8

Nipagin esters

Propylparaben

94-13-3

Nipagin esters

Butylparaben

94-26-8

Sodium benzoate

532-32-1

DMDM hydantoin

6440-58-0

Imidazolidinyl urea

39236-46-9

Pentanediol

5343-92-0

Hexanediol

629-11-8

Octanediol

629-41-4

Co-emulsifier

Glycerine

56-81-5

Cetyl alcohol^{[7, 11, 35]}

36653-82-4

Octadecanol^{[35, 38]}

112-92-5

Cetostearyl alcohol^[35]

67762-27-0

Sodium hydrogen N-(1-oxooctadecyl)-L-glutamate^[16]

79811-24-8

Sodium dodecyl sulfate^[16]

151-21-3

Humectant

Glycerine

56-81-5

Propylene glycol

57-55-6

1, 3-Butanediol

107-88-0

Polyethylene glycol

25322-68-3

Sorbitol

50-70-4

Lactic acid & sodium lactate

50-21-5; 72-17-3

Sodium PCA-Na

28874-51-3

Sodium hyaluronate

9067-32-7

Ingredient	Category	Name	CAS number
Oil	Synthetic oil	Squalane	111-01-3
	Synthetic oil	GTCC	65381-09-1
	Synthetic oil	IPP	142-91-6
	Synthetic oil	Silicone oil	63148-62-9
	Mineral oil	Liquid paraffin	8012-95-1
	Mineral oil	Vaseline	8009-03-8
	Mineral oil	Ceresin wax	8002-74-2
	Mineral oil	Ozocerite	12198-93-5
	Mineral oil	Microcrystalline wax	8001-75-0
	Vegetable oil	Olive oil	8001-25-0
	Vegetable oil	Shea butter	68424-60-2
	Vegetable oil	Lauric acid	143-07-7
	Vegetable oil	Myristate	544-63-8
	Vegetable oil	Palmitic acid	57-10-3
	Vegetable oil	Stearin	111-61-5
	Vegetable oil	Oleic acid	112-80-1
	Vegetable oil	Linoleic acid	60-33-3
	Animal oil	Lanolin	8006-54-0
	Animal oil	Triglyceride	538-24-9
Polymer	Inorganic water-soluble polymer	Aluminum magnesium silicate	12511-31-8
	Inorganic water-soluble polymer	Sodium magnesium silicate	53320-86-8
	Organic semi synthetic polymers	Carboxymethyl cellulose	9000-11-7
	Organic semi synthetic polymers	Hydroxyethyl cellulose	9004-62-0
	Organic semi synthetic polymers	Hydroxypropyl cellulose	9004-64-2
	Organic semi synthetic polymers	Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate	9087-61-0
	Organic synthetic polymer	Polyethylene glycol	25322-68-3
	Organic synthetic polymer	Polyvinylpyrrolidone	9003-39-8
	Organic synthetic polymer	Carbomer	54182-57-9
	Organic synthetic polymer	Polyacrylamide	9003-05-8
	Organic natural polymer	Xanthan gum	11138-66-2
	Organic natural polymer	Guar gum	9000-30-0
Preservative	Nipagin esters	Methyl hydroxybenzoate	99-76-3
	Nipagin esters	Ethylparaben	120-47-8
	Nipagin esters	Propylparaben	94-13-3
	Nipagin esters	Butylparaben	94-26-8
	-	Sodium benzoate	532-32-1
		DMDM hydantoin	6440-58-0
		Imidazolidinyl urea	39236-46-9
		Pentanediol	5343-92-0
		Hexanediol	629-11-8
		Octanediol	629-41-4
Co-emulsifier	-	Glycerine	56-81-5
		Cetyl alcohol^{[7, 11, 35]}	36653-82-4
		Octadecanol^{[35, 38]}	112-92-5
		Cetostearyl alcohol^[35]	67762-27-0
		Sodium hydrogen N-(1-oxooctadecyl)-L-glutamate^[16]	79811-24-8
		Sodium dodecyl sulfate^[16]	151-21-3
Humectant	-	Glycerine	56-81-5
		Propylene glycol	57-55-6
		1, 3-Butanediol	107-88-0
		Polyethylene glycol	25322-68-3
		Sorbitol	50-70-4
		Lactic acid & sodium lactate	50-21-5; 72-17-3
		Sodium PCA-Na	28874-51-3
		Sodium hyaluronate	9067-32-7

Ingredient

Category

Name

CAS number

Oil

Synthetic oil

Squalane

111-01-3

Synthetic oil

GTCC

65381-09-1

Synthetic oil

IPP

142-91-6

Synthetic oil

Silicone oil

63148-62-9

Mineral oil

Liquid paraffin

8012-95-1

Mineral oil

Vaseline

8009-03-8

Mineral oil

Ceresin wax

8002-74-2

Mineral oil

Ozocerite

12198-93-5

Mineral oil

Microcrystalline wax

8001-75-0

Vegetable oil

Olive oil

8001-25-0

Vegetable oil

Shea butter

68424-60-2

Vegetable oil

Lauric acid

143-07-7

Vegetable oil

Myristate

544-63-8

Vegetable oil

Palmitic acid

57-10-3

Vegetable oil

Stearin

111-61-5

Vegetable oil

Oleic acid

112-80-1

Vegetable oil

Linoleic acid

60-33-3

Animal oil

Lanolin

8006-54-0

Animal oil

Triglyceride

538-24-9

Polymer

Inorganic water-soluble polymer

Aluminum magnesium silicate

12511-31-8

Inorganic water-soluble polymer

Sodium magnesium silicate

53320-86-8

Organic semi synthetic polymers

Carboxymethyl cellulose

9000-11-7

Organic semi synthetic polymers

Hydroxyethyl cellulose

9004-62-0

Organic semi synthetic polymers

Hydroxypropyl cellulose

9004-64-2

Organic semi synthetic polymers

Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate

9087-61-0

Organic synthetic polymer

Polyethylene glycol

25322-68-3

Organic synthetic polymer

Polyvinylpyrrolidone

9003-39-8

Organic synthetic polymer

Carbomer

54182-57-9

Organic synthetic polymer

Polyacrylamide

9003-05-8

Organic natural polymer

Xanthan gum

11138-66-2

Organic natural polymer

Guar gum

9000-30-0

Preservative

Nipagin esters

Methyl hydroxybenzoate

99-76-3

Nipagin esters

Ethylparaben

120-47-8

Nipagin esters

Propylparaben

94-13-3

Nipagin esters

Butylparaben

94-26-8

Sodium benzoate

532-32-1

DMDM hydantoin

6440-58-0

Imidazolidinyl urea

39236-46-9

Pentanediol

5343-92-0

Hexanediol

629-11-8

Octanediol

629-41-4

Co-emulsifier

Glycerine

56-81-5

Cetyl alcohol^{[7, 11, 35]}

36653-82-4

Octadecanol^{[35, 38]}

112-92-5

Cetostearyl alcohol^[35]

67762-27-0

Sodium hydrogen N-(1-oxooctadecyl)-L-glutamate^[16]

79811-24-8

Sodium dodecyl sulfate^[16]

151-21-3

Humectant

Glycerine

56-81-5

Propylene glycol

57-55-6

1, 3-Butanediol

107-88-0

Polyethylene glycol

25322-68-3

Sorbitol

50-70-4

Lactic acid & sodium lactate

50-21-5; 72-17-3

Sodium PCA-Na

28874-51-3

Sodium hyaluronate

9067-32-7

Category	Trade name	Supplier	INCI name
Alkyl polyglucosides	Montanov^TM68^{[7, 9, 16, 25]}	SEPPIC	Cetearyl alcohol & cetearyl glucoside
	Montanov^TM82^{[7 10, 16, 25]}	SEPPIC	Cetearyl alcohol & coco glucoside
	Montanov^TM202^{[7, 10, 16]}	SEPPIC	Arachidyl alcohol & 1-docosanol & arachidyl glucoside
	Montanov^TML^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}	SEPPIC	C14-20 Alcohols & C12-20 alkyl glucoside
	Montanov^TMS^{[7, 16, 25]}	SEPPIC	Coco glucoside & coconut alcohol
	Emulgin VL 75^{[7, 10, 25]}	Cognis	Lauryl glucoside & polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate & glycerine
	Tego care CG90^{[7, 10, 16]}	Evonik	Cetearyl glucoside
	Giga emulgin S-68^{[7, 16]}	Giga Fine Chemical	Cetearyl glucoside & cetearyl alcohol & sodium hydrogen N-(1-oxooctadecyl)-L-glutamate
	EmulgadePL68/50^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}	BASF	Cetearyl glucoside & cetearyl alcohol
Lecithins	Nikkomulese LC^{[7, 10, 25]}	NIKKOL	1-Docosanol & stearyl alcohol & PEG-20 soy sterol & cetyl alcohol & glyceryl stearate
	Prolipid 141^{[7, 10, 25]}	Ashland	Monoglyceride & 1-docosanol & palmitic acid & stearic acid & lecithin & dodecyl alcohol & 1-tetradecanol
Sucrose esters	Eumulgin sucro^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}	BASF	Sucrose polystearate & hydrogenated polyisobutene
	Arlatone 2121^{[7, 10, 16]}	Croda	Sorbitan stearate & sucrose cocoate
	Oliderm O/W 10^[16]	Sethic	Sucrose stearate ester & cetearyl alcohol & olea europaea
Olive esters	Oliven 1000^{[7, 16, 25]}	B & T	Cetearyl olivate & sorbitan olivate
	OLIVEM 1000K^{[7, 25]}	B & T	Ethoxylated cetyl stearyl alcohol
Phosphate esters	Sensanov WR^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}	SEPPIC	C20-22 Alkyl phosphate & C20-22 alcohols
	AMPHISOL^®K^[16]	DSM	Potassium cetyl phosphate
Stearyls	Biobase S^{[7, 10, 16]}	OTC	Glyceryl stearate & cetearyl alcohol & sodium stearyl lactate
	Nikkol Nikkomulese 41^{[7, 10, 25]}	Nikko	1-Docosanol & polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate & sodium stearyl lactate
	Eumulgin SG^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}	Cognis	Sodium hydrogen N-(1-oxooctadecyl)-L-glutamate

Category

Trade name

Supplier

INCI name

Alkyl polyglucosides

Montanov^TM68^{[7, 9, 16, 25]}

SEPPIC

Cetearyl alcohol & cetearyl glucoside

Montanov^TM82^{[7 10, 16, 25]}

SEPPIC

Cetearyl alcohol & coco glucoside

Montanov^TM202^{[7, 10, 16]}

SEPPIC

Arachidyl alcohol & 1-docosanol & arachidyl glucoside

Montanov^TML^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}

SEPPIC

C14-20 Alcohols & C12-20 alkyl glucoside

Montanov^TMS^{[7, 16, 25]}

SEPPIC

Coco glucoside & coconut alcohol

Emulgin VL 75^{[7, 10, 25]}

Cognis

Lauryl glucoside & polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate & glycerine

Tego care CG90^{[7, 10, 16]}

Evonik

Cetearyl glucoside

Giga emulgin S-68^{[7, 16]}

Giga Fine Chemical

Cetearyl glucoside & cetearyl alcohol & sodium hydrogen N-(1-oxooctadecyl)-L-glutamate

EmulgadePL68/50^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}

BASF

Cetearyl glucoside & cetearyl alcohol

Lecithins

Nikkomulese LC^{[7, 10, 25]}

NIKKOL

1-Docosanol & stearyl alcohol & PEG-20 soy sterol & cetyl alcohol & glyceryl stearate

Prolipid 141^{[7, 10, 25]}

Ashland

Monoglyceride & 1-docosanol & palmitic acid & stearic acid & lecithin & dodecyl alcohol & 1-tetradecanol

Sucrose esters

Eumulgin sucro^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}

BASF

Sucrose polystearate & hydrogenated polyisobutene

Arlatone 2121^{[7, 10, 16]}

Croda

Sorbitan stearate & sucrose cocoate

Oliderm O/W 10^[16]

Sethic

Sucrose stearate ester & cetearyl alcohol & olea europaea

Olive esters

Oliven 1000^{[7, 16, 25]}

B & T

Cetearyl olivate & sorbitan olivate

OLIVEM 1000K^{[7, 25]}

B & T

Ethoxylated cetyl stearyl alcohol

Phosphate esters

Sensanov WR^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}

SEPPIC

C20-22 Alkyl phosphate & C20-22 alcohols

AMPHISOL^®K^[16]

DSM

Potassium cetyl phosphate

Stearyls

Biobase S^{[7, 10, 16]}

OTC

Glyceryl stearate & cetearyl alcohol & sodium stearyl lactate

Nikkol Nikkomulese 41^{[7, 10, 25]}

Nikko

1-Docosanol & polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate & sodium stearyl lactate

Eumulgin SG^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}

Cognis

Sodium hydrogen N-(1-oxooctadecyl)-L-glutamate

Category	Trade name	Supplier	INCI name
Alkyl polyglucosides	Montanov^TM68^{[7, 9, 16, 25]}	SEPPIC	Cetearyl alcohol & cetearyl glucoside
	Montanov^TM82^{[7 10, 16, 25]}	SEPPIC	Cetearyl alcohol & coco glucoside
	Montanov^TM202^{[7, 10, 16]}	SEPPIC	Arachidyl alcohol & 1-docosanol & arachidyl glucoside
	Montanov^TML^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}	SEPPIC	C14-20 Alcohols & C12-20 alkyl glucoside
	Montanov^TMS^{[7, 16, 25]}	SEPPIC	Coco glucoside & coconut alcohol
	Emulgin VL 75^{[7, 10, 25]}	Cognis	Lauryl glucoside & polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate & glycerine
	Tego care CG90^{[7, 10, 16]}	Evonik	Cetearyl glucoside
	Giga emulgin S-68^{[7, 16]}	Giga Fine Chemical	Cetearyl glucoside & cetearyl alcohol & sodium hydrogen N-(1-oxooctadecyl)-L-glutamate
	EmulgadePL68/50^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}	BASF	Cetearyl glucoside & cetearyl alcohol
Lecithins	Nikkomulese LC^{[7, 10, 25]}	NIKKOL	1-Docosanol & stearyl alcohol & PEG-20 soy sterol & cetyl alcohol & glyceryl stearate
	Prolipid 141^{[7, 10, 25]}	Ashland	Monoglyceride & 1-docosanol & palmitic acid & stearic acid & lecithin & dodecyl alcohol & 1-tetradecanol
Sucrose esters	Eumulgin sucro^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}	BASF	Sucrose polystearate & hydrogenated polyisobutene
	Arlatone 2121^{[7, 10, 16]}	Croda	Sorbitan stearate & sucrose cocoate
	Oliderm O/W 10^[16]	Sethic	Sucrose stearate ester & cetearyl alcohol & olea europaea
Olive esters	Oliven 1000^{[7, 16, 25]}	B & T	Cetearyl olivate & sorbitan olivate
	OLIVEM 1000K^{[7, 25]}	B & T	Ethoxylated cetyl stearyl alcohol
Phosphate esters	Sensanov WR^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}	SEPPIC	C20-22 Alkyl phosphate & C20-22 alcohols
	AMPHISOL^®K^[16]	DSM	Potassium cetyl phosphate
Stearyls	Biobase S^{[7, 10, 16]}	OTC	Glyceryl stearate & cetearyl alcohol & sodium stearyl lactate
	Nikkol Nikkomulese 41^{[7, 10, 25]}	Nikko	1-Docosanol & polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate & sodium stearyl lactate
	Eumulgin SG^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}	Cognis	Sodium hydrogen N-(1-oxooctadecyl)-L-glutamate

Category

Trade name

Supplier

INCI name

Alkyl polyglucosides

Montanov^TM68^{[7, 9, 16, 25]}

SEPPIC

Cetearyl alcohol & cetearyl glucoside

Montanov^TM82^{[7 10, 16, 25]}

SEPPIC

Cetearyl alcohol & coco glucoside

Montanov^TM202^{[7, 10, 16]}

SEPPIC

Arachidyl alcohol & 1-docosanol & arachidyl glucoside

Montanov^TML^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}

SEPPIC

C14-20 Alcohols & C12-20 alkyl glucoside

Montanov^TMS^{[7, 16, 25]}

SEPPIC

Coco glucoside & coconut alcohol

Emulgin VL 75^{[7, 10, 25]}

Cognis

Lauryl glucoside & polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate & glycerine

Tego care CG90^{[7, 10, 16]}

Evonik

Cetearyl glucoside

Giga emulgin S-68^{[7, 16]}

Giga Fine Chemical

Cetearyl glucoside & cetearyl alcohol & sodium hydrogen N-(1-oxooctadecyl)-L-glutamate

EmulgadePL68/50^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}

BASF

Cetearyl glucoside & cetearyl alcohol

Lecithins

Nikkomulese LC^{[7, 10, 25]}

NIKKOL

1-Docosanol & stearyl alcohol & PEG-20 soy sterol & cetyl alcohol & glyceryl stearate

Prolipid 141^{[7, 10, 25]}

Ashland

Monoglyceride & 1-docosanol & palmitic acid & stearic acid & lecithin & dodecyl alcohol & 1-tetradecanol

Sucrose esters

Eumulgin sucro^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}

BASF

Sucrose polystearate & hydrogenated polyisobutene

Arlatone 2121^{[7, 10, 16]}

Croda

Sorbitan stearate & sucrose cocoate

Oliderm O/W 10^[16]

Sethic

Sucrose stearate ester & cetearyl alcohol & olea europaea

Olive esters

Oliven 1000^{[7, 16, 25]}

B & T

Cetearyl olivate & sorbitan olivate

OLIVEM 1000K^{[7, 25]}

B & T

Ethoxylated cetyl stearyl alcohol

Phosphate esters

Sensanov WR^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}

SEPPIC

C20-22 Alkyl phosphate & C20-22 alcohols

AMPHISOL^®K^[16]

DSM

Potassium cetyl phosphate

Stearyls

Biobase S^{[7, 10, 16]}

OTC

Glyceryl stearate & cetearyl alcohol & sodium stearyl lactate

Nikkol Nikkomulese 41^{[7, 10, 25]}

Nikko

1-Docosanol & polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate & sodium stearyl lactate

Eumulgin SG^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}

Cognis

Sodium hydrogen N-(1-oxooctadecyl)-L-glutamate

Brand	Trade name	Origin	Active ingredient	Application
CeraVe	CeraVe Smoothing Cream	US	Ceramide	Moisturizing and repairing skin barriers
POLA	POLA B.A GRANDLUXE II N	JP	Cinnamon extract, clove flower extract, Luffa fruit extract, Rosa roxburghii fruit extract	Improving skin elasticity
			4-Butylresorcinol	Whitening
			Mongolian artemisia leaf extract	Moisturizing
			Loquat leaf extract	Anti-radiation
			Astragalus extract	Anti-glycation
LEGEND AGE	Legend Age Eye Cream	CN	Pro-xylane	Reducing wrinkles around eyes
			Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, acetyl hexapeptide-8	Reducing wrinkles around eyes
CMM	Royal Age Cream	CN	Polygonum bistorta root extract, Fuscoporia obliqua extract	Repairing skin barriers
			Milk thistle extract	Antioxidation
			Tequila leaf extract	Moisturizing
SynerHerb	SYNERHERB FLAXSEED MICROCRYSTAL EMULSION	CN	Linseed oil	Repairing skin damage
			Vitamin E	Moisturizing
			Sodium hyaluronate	Maintain skin moisture and radiance
FAN BEAUTY DIARY	Gentle Cleaning Foam	CN	Musseladhesiveprotein, fibronectin	Repairing skin damage, antioxidation
			Asiaticoside, purslane extract	Removing heat and dampness, detoxication, relieving swelling
UNISKIN	UNI SKIN REVITAL CREAM	CN	Provitamin B5	Moisturizing, anti-inflammatory
YOUNG SCENT	CERAMELA FIRMING & REVITALIZING ESSENTIAL LOTION	CN	Pro-xylane, rhodococcus pluvialis extract	Antioxidation
			Provitamin B5	Moisturizing, anti-inflammatory
WISH LIST	Cymbidium Revitalizing Essence Water	CN	Nicotinamide	Whitening, anti-inflammatory
			Cymbidium extract	Reducing facial wrinkles
			Ectoin	Repairing skin damage, moisturizing
NICEMIX	GENTLE SOOTHING MOISTURIZING CREAM	CN	Chlamydomonas nivalis extract	Antioxidation
			Succinic acid	Reducing facial wrinkles
FARBERLY	GLAZE TIME CREAM	CN	Ginkgo biloba extract	Antioxidation
			Coenzyme A	Moisturizing
YOGAN	Comforting & Repairing Emulsion	CN	Sodium hyaluronate	Moisturizing
			Ceramide	Repairing skin barriers

Brand

Trade name

Origin

Active ingredient

Application

CeraVe

CeraVe Smoothing Cream

Ceramide

Moisturizing and repairing skin barriers

POLA

POLA B.A GRANDLUXE II N

Cinnamon extract, clove flower extract, Luffa fruit extract, Rosa roxburghii fruit extract

Improving skin elasticity

4-Butylresorcinol

Whitening

Mongolian artemisia leaf extract

Moisturizing

Loquat leaf extract

Anti-radiation

Astragalus extract

Anti-glycation

LEGEND AGE

Legend Age Eye Cream

Pro-xylane

Reducing wrinkles around eyes

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, acetyl hexapeptide-8

Reducing wrinkles around eyes

CMM

Royal Age Cream

Polygonum bistorta root extract, Fuscoporia obliqua extract

Repairing skin barriers

Milk thistle extract

Antioxidation

Tequila leaf extract

Moisturizing

SynerHerb

SYNERHERB FLAXSEED MICROCRYSTAL EMULSION

Linseed oil

Repairing skin damage

Vitamin E

Moisturizing

Sodium hyaluronate

Maintain skin moisture and radiance

FAN BEAUTY DIARY

Gentle Cleaning Foam

Musseladhesiveprotein, fibronectin

Repairing skin damage, antioxidation

Asiaticoside, purslane extract

Removing heat and dampness, detoxication, relieving swelling

UNISKIN

UNI SKIN REVITAL CREAM

Provitamin B5

Moisturizing, anti-inflammatory

YOUNG SCENT

CERAMELA FIRMING & REVITALIZING ESSENTIAL LOTION

Pro-xylane, rhodococcus pluvialis extract

Antioxidation

Provitamin B5

Moisturizing, anti-inflammatory

WISH LIST

Cymbidium Revitalizing Essence Water

Nicotinamide

Whitening, anti-inflammatory

Cymbidium extract

Reducing facial wrinkles

Ectoin

Repairing skin damage, moisturizing

NICEMIX

GENTLE SOOTHING MOISTURIZING CREAM

Chlamydomonas nivalis extract

Antioxidation

Succinic acid

Reducing facial wrinkles

FARBERLY

GLAZE TIME CREAM

Ginkgo biloba extract

Antioxidation

Coenzyme A

Moisturizing

YOGAN

Comforting & Repairing Emulsion

Sodium hyaluronate

Moisturizing

Ceramide

Repairing skin barriers

Brand	Trade name	Origin	Active ingredient	Application
CeraVe	CeraVe Smoothing Cream	US	Ceramide	Moisturizing and repairing skin barriers
POLA	POLA B.A GRANDLUXE II N	JP	Cinnamon extract, clove flower extract, Luffa fruit extract, Rosa roxburghii fruit extract	Improving skin elasticity
			4-Butylresorcinol	Whitening
			Mongolian artemisia leaf extract	Moisturizing
			Loquat leaf extract	Anti-radiation
			Astragalus extract	Anti-glycation
LEGEND AGE	Legend Age Eye Cream	CN	Pro-xylane	Reducing wrinkles around eyes
			Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, acetyl hexapeptide-8	Reducing wrinkles around eyes
CMM	Royal Age Cream	CN	Polygonum bistorta root extract, Fuscoporia obliqua extract	Repairing skin barriers
			Milk thistle extract	Antioxidation
			Tequila leaf extract	Moisturizing
SynerHerb	SYNERHERB FLAXSEED MICROCRYSTAL EMULSION	CN	Linseed oil	Repairing skin damage
			Vitamin E	Moisturizing
			Sodium hyaluronate	Maintain skin moisture and radiance
FAN BEAUTY DIARY	Gentle Cleaning Foam	CN	Musseladhesiveprotein, fibronectin	Repairing skin damage, antioxidation
			Asiaticoside, purslane extract	Removing heat and dampness, detoxication, relieving swelling
UNISKIN	UNI SKIN REVITAL CREAM	CN	Provitamin B5	Moisturizing, anti-inflammatory
YOUNG SCENT	CERAMELA FIRMING & REVITALIZING ESSENTIAL LOTION	CN	Pro-xylane, rhodococcus pluvialis extract	Antioxidation
			Provitamin B5	Moisturizing, anti-inflammatory
WISH LIST	Cymbidium Revitalizing Essence Water	CN	Nicotinamide	Whitening, anti-inflammatory
			Cymbidium extract	Reducing facial wrinkles
			Ectoin	Repairing skin damage, moisturizing
NICEMIX	GENTLE SOOTHING MOISTURIZING CREAM	CN	Chlamydomonas nivalis extract	Antioxidation
			Succinic acid	Reducing facial wrinkles
FARBERLY	GLAZE TIME CREAM	CN	Ginkgo biloba extract	Antioxidation
			Coenzyme A	Moisturizing
YOGAN	Comforting & Repairing Emulsion	CN	Sodium hyaluronate	Moisturizing
			Ceramide	Repairing skin barriers

Brand

Trade name

Origin

Active ingredient

Application

CeraVe

CeraVe Smoothing Cream

Ceramide

Moisturizing and repairing skin barriers

POLA

POLA B.A GRANDLUXE II N

Cinnamon extract, clove flower extract, Luffa fruit extract, Rosa roxburghii fruit extract

Improving skin elasticity

4-Butylresorcinol

Whitening

Mongolian artemisia leaf extract

Moisturizing

Loquat leaf extract

Anti-radiation

Astragalus extract

Anti-glycation

LEGEND AGE

Legend Age Eye Cream

Pro-xylane

Reducing wrinkles around eyes

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, acetyl hexapeptide-8

Reducing wrinkles around eyes

CMM

Royal Age Cream

Polygonum bistorta root extract, Fuscoporia obliqua extract

Repairing skin barriers

Milk thistle extract

Antioxidation

Tequila leaf extract

Moisturizing

SynerHerb

SYNERHERB FLAXSEED MICROCRYSTAL EMULSION

Linseed oil

Repairing skin damage

Vitamin E

Moisturizing

Sodium hyaluronate

Maintain skin moisture and radiance

FAN BEAUTY DIARY

Gentle Cleaning Foam

Musseladhesiveprotein, fibronectin

Repairing skin damage, antioxidation

Asiaticoside, purslane extract

Removing heat and dampness, detoxication, relieving swelling

UNISKIN

UNI SKIN REVITAL CREAM

Provitamin B5

Moisturizing, anti-inflammatory

YOUNG SCENT

CERAMELA FIRMING & REVITALIZING ESSENTIAL LOTION

Pro-xylane, rhodococcus pluvialis extract

Antioxidation

Provitamin B5

Moisturizing, anti-inflammatory

WISH LIST

Cymbidium Revitalizing Essence Water

Nicotinamide

Whitening, anti-inflammatory

Cymbidium extract

Reducing facial wrinkles

Ectoin

Repairing skin damage, moisturizing

NICEMIX

GENTLE SOOTHING MOISTURIZING CREAM

Chlamydomonas nivalis extract

Antioxidation

Succinic acid

Reducing facial wrinkles

FARBERLY

GLAZE TIME CREAM

Ginkgo biloba extract

Antioxidation

Coenzyme A

Moisturizing

YOGAN

Comforting & Repairing Emulsion

Sodium hyaluronate

Moisturizing

Ceramide

Repairing skin barriers

层状液晶乳化技术包载天然活性物质用于功能化妆品的研究进展

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张毅 , 陈微 , 韩艳琪 , 孙倩雯 , 高越 , 叶军 , 王洪亮 , 高丽丽 , 刘玉玲 ^* , 杨艳芳 ^*

药学学报 | 综述 2024,59(2): 350-358

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药学学报 | 综述 2024, 59(2): 350-358

层状液晶乳化技术包载天然活性物质用于功能化妆品的研究进展

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张毅, 陈微, 韩艳琪, 孙倩雯, 高越, 叶军, 王洪亮, 高丽丽, 刘玉玲^*, 杨艳芳^*

作者信息

中国医学科学院、北京协和医学院药物研究所, 北京 100050

通讯作者:

^*刘玉玲, Tel: 86-10-89285191, E-mail: ylliu@imm.ac.cn;

杨艳芳, Tel: 86-10-89285113, E-mail: yangyf@imm.ac.cn

Recent advances in lamellar liquid crystal emulsification methods encapsulating natural active substances for functional cosmetics

Yi ZHANG, Wei CHEN, Yan-qi HAN, Qian-wen SUN, Yue GAO, Jun YE, Hong-liang WANG, Li-li GAO, Yu-ling LIU^*, Yan-fang YANG^*

Affiliations

Institute of Materia Medica, Chinese Academy of Medical Sciences and Peking Union Medical College, Beijing 100050, China

出版时间: 2024-02-12 doi: 10.16438/j.0513-4870.2023-1177

文章导航

摘要

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由于与人体皮肤角质细胞间的脂质层高度相似性的特点, 包载天然活性物质的液晶乳化技术制备的层状液晶结构的功能化妆品成为近年的研究热点。该类化妆品往往具备水润清爽的涂抹肤感、优异的皮肤屏障修复功能和高效的保湿作用等特点, 极具应用前景。目前, 关于液晶乳化技术应用于功能化妆品的研究尚处于初始阶段, 具有参考价值的相关报道较少。基于此, 本论文拟从人体皮肤结构、液晶尤其是层状液晶的结构组成、层状液晶包载天然活性物质用于功能化妆品的优势、含有层状液晶结构功能化妆品的制备工艺及相关上市功能化妆品等进行了全面的综述。最后, 对液晶乳化技术在功能化妆品中的应用前景进行了展望, 以期为从事液晶乳化技术相关功能化妆品的研究提供有益的参考。

关键词

功能化妆品 / 液晶乳化技术 / 层状液晶 / 天然活性物质

Abstract

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Due to the high similarity with the lipid layer between human skin keratinocytes, functional cosmetics with layered liquid crystal structure prepared by liquid crystal emulsification technology encapsulating natural active substances have become a hot research topic in recent years. This type of functional cosmetic often has a fresh and natural skin feel, excellent skin barrier repair function and efficient moisturizing effect, etc., showing great potential in cosmetic application. However, the present research on the application of liquid crystal emulsification technology to functional cosmetics is still in the initial stage, and there are fewer relevant reports with reference values. Based on the mentioned above, this review provides a comprehensive summary of functional cosmetics with layered liquid crystal structures prepared by liquid crystal emulsification technology from the following aspects: the structure of human skin, the composition of lamellar liquid crystal, the advantages of liquid crystal emulsification technology containing natural active substances used in the field of functional cosmetics, the preparation process, main components, influencing factors during the preparation and the market functional cosmetics with lamellar liquid crystal structure. Finally, the prospect of the application of liquid crystal emulsification technology in functional cosmetics is presented, to provide useful references for those engaged in the research of liquid crystal emulsification technology-related functional cosmetics.

Key words

functional cosmetics / liquid crystal emulsification method / lamellar liquid crystal / natural active substance

引用本文

张毅, 陈微, 韩艳琪, 孙倩雯, 高越, 叶军, 王洪亮, 高丽丽, 刘玉玲, 杨艳芳. 层状液晶乳化技术包载天然活性物质用于功能化妆品的研究进展. 药学学报, 2024 , 59 (2) : 350 -358 . DOI: 10.16438/j.0513-4870.2023-1177

Yi ZHANG, Wei CHEN, Yan-qi HAN, Qian-wen SUN, Yue GAO, Jun YE, Hong-liang WANG, Li-li GAO, Yu-ling LIU, Yan-fang YANG. Recent advances in lamellar liquid crystal emulsification methods encapsulating natural active substances for functional cosmetics[J]. Acta Pharmaceutica Sinica, 2024 , 59 (2) : 350 -358 . DOI: 10.16438/j.0513-4870.2023-1177

正文

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液晶乳化技术包载天然活性物质所制备的含层状液晶结构的功能化妆品是近年来备受关注的一类新型化妆品。区别于传统化妆品, 层状液晶结构的化妆品可在乳滴的油水界面形成类似于人体肌肤结构的稳定液晶相, 具有提高化妆品的稳定性、保湿性、有效性及舒适度等功能^[1]。层状液晶乳化技术主要应用于乳液、霜、膏及精华液类化妆品。目前已有层状液晶乳化技术制备的相关上市的化妆品产品, 如宝丽(POLA) 推出的B.A极光幻彩精华液、适乐肤(CeraVe) 推出的CeraVe润肤霜及传奇今生(LEGEND AGE) 推出的传奇今生焕彩眼霜等。尽管如此, 层状液晶乳化技术在化妆品尤其是功能化妆品领域仍处于发展早期, 存在应用产品较少且种类单一的不足, 有待进一步拓展其在功能化妆品领域的应用。基于此, 本文将综合国内外现有研究报道, 对层状液晶乳化技术及其制备的化妆品的结构组成、制备工艺、影响因素、天然活性功能成分的添加及相关上市产品进行全面综述。最后, 对层状液晶乳化技术难以在化妆品领域大规模推广的不足与局限性进行了分析, 有望为扩大层状液晶乳化技术在化妆品尤其是功能化妆品中的应用提供理论支持与技术参考。

1 人体皮肤结构概述

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人体皮肤通常由真皮层与表皮层组成(图 1A), 其中表皮层又分别由基底层、棘层、颗粒层及角质层组成^[2]。作为皮肤表皮的最外层, 角质层具有防止异物入侵和水分蒸发等天然屏障功能。通常, 角质细胞间填充着大量的细胞间脂质, 这些脂质主要由胆固醇、神经酰胺和游离脂肪酸等分子构成^{[3, 4]}, 三者在角质细胞间形成了稳定的横向及纵向层状结构。其中, 脂质的横向排列结构包括: 液态(liquid-crystalline)、六方晶系(hexagonal) 与斜方晶系(orthorhombic) 结构(图 1B), 这些结构排列的疏密程度依次递增从而调节皮肤对水的渗透性^[4]。在人体角质层中, 大部分脂质的横向排列结构都为斜方晶系, 只有少部分为液态或六方晶系^[5], 这种排列方式可在角质细胞间形成致密的脂质层, 有效防止角质层的水分流失, 保持肌肤的水嫩、光滑^[6]。当角质层中的层状结构被破坏, 转为无序状态时则会导致皮肤的粗糙和干燥^{[7, 8]}。因此, 探索可改善皮肤角质细胞外脂质功能, 加强皮肤屏障的护肤产品对于改善皮肤的功能至关重要。

2 用于功能化妆品中的液晶结构

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液晶是介于固体与液体之间的一种物理状态, 同时保留了液体的流动性、连续性与固体结晶的各项异性^[9], 是一种介于固体与液体之间的热力学稳定相态^{[10, 11]}。根据制备方法的不同, 其可分为热致液晶(thermotropic liquid crystals, TLCs) 与溶致液晶(lyotropic liquid crystals, LLCs) 两类。其中TLCs是由固体加热至一定温度所形成的, 较少应用于化妆品领域。而LLCs是两亲性脂质与表面活性剂在极性溶剂(通常是水溶液)^[12]中自发形成的有序体系^[13], 两亲性脂质的亲水部分通过静电力相互吸引聚集, 疏水部分通过范德华力相互缔合以降低体系的自由能。根据两亲性脂质排列方式的不同, 可将LLCs分为层状液晶、六方晶状液晶与立方状液晶三种^{[7, 14]}, 结构分别如图 2所示。

层状液晶为LLCs的一种, 当两亲性脂质浓度达到80%~85%时形成, 其特点是两亲性脂质呈层状排列, 亲水基有序排列于脂质层的外侧, 疏水基位于脂质层的内侧, 层与层之间由层间结合水隔开, 形成一种多层网格结构(图 3)^{[15, 16]}。该多层结构包裹于单个乳滴周围, 形成“油/液晶/水”的特殊结构。相较于传统乳剂的“水/乳化剂/油”或“油/乳化剂/水”的单层结构, 该多层结构主要有以下特点^[10]: ①多层网格结构在乳滴周围形成了稳定的屏障, 提高了乳滴的稳定性; ②层与层之间由层间结合水构成, 其中结合水约占总体系的13%~19%^[11], 使得层状液晶具有高效保湿作用; ③层状液晶内包含亲水性与疏水性的连续相, 使其能够包裹亲水、亲油性物质; ④层状液晶的结构与角质细胞外脂质中的层状结构类似, 且层与层之间由水通道填充易于滑动, 使其拥有贴合肌肤的肤感及良好的涂抹、铺展效果。由此, 层状液晶为修复、提高皮肤屏障, 提高、增强化妆品中的有效成分的功效提供了可能。

3 层状液晶乳化技术在功能化妆品中的应用优势

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3.1 提高化妆品的稳定性

乳剂为化妆品中最常见的剂型之一, 其通常为热力学不稳定的分散体系, 内部含无数的小乳滴, 乳剂体系的总界面能较高, 乳滴之间有相互聚集融合为大乳滴的趋势, 进而减少整体乳滴表面积, 以降低体系的总界面能^[17]。层状液晶具有光学各向异性, 在偏光显微镜下观察为马耳他十字结构, 也称为洋葱状层状液晶^[15]。层状液晶由多个表面活性剂双分子层、外部自由水、层间结合水及内部油脂组成^[16]。其层层包裹的表面活性剂双分子层建立了稳定的屏障作用, 具有较高的粘弹性, 可有效阻碍乳滴间因碰撞而发生的融合。此外, 液晶的吸附层也可减少乳滴之间的长程范德华力^[7], 进一步减缓乳滴间聚集融合的趋势。Zhou等^[11]研究发现层状液晶乳液产品可以在皮肤上停留6 h以上, 且液晶结构仍保持完好, 克服了传统化妆品无法长时间保留的缺点, 为发挥层状液晶的优异性能奠定了基础。Chen等^[18]设计制备了一款液晶面霜, 该面霜内具有较多且分散均匀的液晶结构。检测结果显示, 该面霜在50 ℃高温条件下放置1个月后仍保持较好的液晶结构。Wang等^[10]研究发现烷基糖苷型液晶结构乳液在室温放置18个月后仍可保持较清晰的液晶结构。

3.2 高效保湿作用

人体表皮层中大部分水分都存在于角质细胞与下方的活细胞中, 水分首先沿着活细胞间隙向上穿过脂质层, 途中加入部分储存于角质细胞中的水分并最终在表皮蒸发^[19]。如图 4所示, 作为表皮层的最外层, 角质层可为皮肤建立一层稳定的屏障, 以避免皮肤内水分的过度蒸发流失^[19]。当角质层细胞间脂质中的层状结构被破坏, 进而导致角质化过程异常时皮肤就会变得干燥^[7]。层状液晶结构中既包含层间结合水, 又含有外部自由水, 二者处于动态平衡。当含有层状液晶的化妆品涂抹于干燥的皮肤上时, 外部的自由水首先蒸发, 之后层间结合水缓慢蒸发, 由此起到高效保湿作用^{[16, 20]}, 可极大程度缓解皮肤的缺水并修复损坏的角质层。

3.3 缓释作用

层状液晶内部的结构如图 5所示, 主要由两亲性表面活性剂双分子层与层间结合水构成。这使得其可包裹亲水性或亲脂性的活性物质, 且活性物质可被表面活性剂双分子层所保护, 进而避免被酶解失活^[21]。其中, 水溶性活性物质主要包裹在两亲性表面活性剂双分子层间的水通道区域, 脂溶性活性物质则包裹在表面活性剂双分子层中的疏水区。层与层的包裹结构可有效控制活性物质的释放, 减少活性物质在层状液晶结构内部的迁移^{[7, 9, 22]}。Fan等^[23]研究了层状液晶负载亲水性活性物质5-氟尿嘧啶与亲脂性活性物质姜黄素的释药情况。实验结果表明, 层状液晶对两种不同理化性质的活性物质均具有良好的缓释作用, 且相邻表面活性剂双分子层的间距越小, 缓释效果越好。Zhou等^[24]以水杨酸钠作为水溶性活性物质代表, 研究了层状液晶与传统乳液对水杨酸钠的控释能力。结果表明, 相较于传统乳液, 层状液晶可显著减缓水杨酸钠的释放速率。

3.4 优异的肤感

层状液晶化妆品的多层结构之间填充的水通道, 使得层与层之间易于滑动, 进而带来化妆品涂抹的优异的肤感。此外, 由于层状液晶结构与皮肤角质层胞间脂质结构相似, 具有层状液晶结构的化妆品往往拥有水润清爽和贴合肌肤的理想效果, 因而被许多厂商宣传为“第二层皮肤”^{[11, 25]}。Bian等^[9]研究并记录了10位试验人员使用保湿液晶霜与普通膏霜的感官评价, 分别从产品的光泽度、铺展性、吸收性、黏滞感、油腻感及滋润感等多方面综合对比考量了液晶保湿霜与普通膏霜之间的涂抹肤感差异。试验结果表明, 液晶保湿霜的整体涂抹肤感优异性反馈比普通膏霜高出10%~20%。Zhang等^[26]研究了液晶乳液的流变学特性, 发现其具有剪切变稀的特性, 即液晶乳液在储存时表现为类固体的性质, 稳定性较好, 而涂抹至皮肤上时表现为液体的性质, 进一步提高了液晶乳液优异的肤感体验。目前国内/外已有多个化妆品牌上市了相关的液晶乳化产品, 该类液晶产品均以肤感优异、不油腻、持久保湿效果好著称^[9]。

4 层状液晶功能化妆品的制备工艺

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与传统的乳剂制备方法类似, 含有层状液晶结构的乳剂工艺也主要采用油相与水相混合, 于一定条件下形成乳剂体系^{[15, 27]}, 具体制备过程如图 6所示。一般可分为以下几个步骤^[28]: ①分别制备水相与油相; ②将水相倒入油相中, 于75 ℃左右加热搅拌进行均质; ③均质结束后于一定搅拌速率冷却至45 ℃以下即得。如果产品中含有螯合剂, 则应将其加入至水相中^[29], 产品中含有的防腐剂和功能性活性成分, 应在步骤③冷却至45 ℃时加入^[30]。

层状液晶功能化妆品的制备工艺中, 水相一般由多元醇和水溶性聚合物组成。其中, 多元醇的加入可以降低水相的表面张力, 有利于液晶结构的形成。水溶性聚合物中大多含有羟基、丙烯酸、羧基或氨基等亲水基团, 亲水性良好。当水溶性聚合物溶解于水中时, 其主长链铺展开并在乳滴周围形成三维结构, 可减少乳滴间的聚集碰撞^[31], 一般用作液晶乳液制备过程中的稳定剂、增稠剂或分散剂, 用于增大乳剂的黏稠度, 延缓乳滴间的聚集, 提高乳剂的稳定性^{[15, 25, 32-34]}(图 7)。根据来源及结构特征的不同, 水溶性聚合物可分为有机天然聚合物、有机合成类聚合物、有机半合成类聚合物和无机水溶性聚合物(表 1)。其中有机合成与半合成类聚合物在化妆品中较常用^[11]。制备过程中, 水相中多元醇和水溶性聚合物的最佳添加量需要进行试验探索, 若多元醇添加过量, 可导致多元醇中的亲水基团与水分子以氢键的方式结合形成水合基团, 后者可进入液晶结构中从而破坏液晶结构的有序性。但若水溶性聚合物添加过量, 则可导致聚合物交联网络的形成, 从而打乱液晶的排列结构^[25]。

层状液晶功能化妆品的制备工艺中, 油相的组成通常包括油脂、液晶乳化剂和助乳化剂等。其中, 液晶乳化剂是形成层状液晶结构的关键原料之一, 其分子内部一般含有亲水基与疏水基, 可在油、水界面定向排列。只有当液晶乳化剂分子在油、水界面形成有序、致密且富有粘弹性的界面膜时才能形成稳定的层状液晶结构^[11]。不同结构的液晶乳化剂形成层状液晶结构的能力不同, 是影响液晶乳化成功与否的关键因素。如表 2所示, 液晶乳化剂的种类一般可分为烷基葡糖苷类、卵磷脂类、蔗糖酯类、橄榄酯类、磷酸酯类及硬脂酰类液晶乳化剂等^{[10, 25, 35]}, 不同乳化剂所形成的液晶结构特点不同^{[1, 7]}, 实际制备中应根据需求自行选择。

单一液晶乳化剂难以乳化全部油脂, 无法形成稳定的液晶层状结构, 故须添加助乳化剂^{[7, 25, 36, 37]}。助乳化剂可通过与液晶乳化剂所形成的凝胶网络结合, 增加层状液晶结构的稳定性^[36], 是液晶乳化功能化妆品制备中不可或缺的添加剂。助乳化剂一般由甘油和高碳醇组成^{[7, 9, 11, 37, 38]}, 常用的高碳醇见表 1。目前有研究表明, 甘油与高碳醇以一定配比混合可起到协同作用, 且甘油的比例越高, 所制备的液晶乳剂稳定性越好^{[7, 37]}。液晶乳化剂与助乳化剂之间的比例决定最终产品的稳定性与肤感, 二者比例过低会导致产品流动性强、稳定性差, 而比例过高则使得产品涂抹肤感油腻, 稳定性差^{[28, 29]}。

作为各类化妆品中的主要原料或辅料, 油脂及其衍生物可减少化妆品涂抹时的皮肤摩擦感并提高化妆品的铺展性能^[39], 具有屏障、滋润和保湿等功效^[40]。根据来源及化学组成的不同, 可将油脂分为4种: 合成油脂、矿物油脂、植物油脂和动物油脂(表 1)。其中, 植物油脂是化妆品中常用的油脂^{[11, 40]}。根据碘值的大小又可将植物油脂分为干性油(> 120)、半干性油(100~120) 和不干性油(< 100)。干性油和半干性油的碘值较高, 含有更多双键, 更易被氧化^[41]。相关学者^{[7, 11, 39]}的研究表明, 大部分液态或固态的植物油脂可促进层状液晶结构的形成, 而固态的动物油脂和固态的矿物油脂的使用则不利于层状液晶结构的形成。此外, 选用亲水亲油平衡值(hydrophile-lipophile balance, HLB) 值与液晶乳化剂HLB相近的油脂可增加乳液的稳定性^[11]。因此, 液晶乳化技术制备化妆品过程中应综合不同油脂的抗氧化性及HLB值筛选适宜的油脂种类。

除上述的水相和油相成分外, 部分包载于层状液晶结构中的天然活性成分亦可影响液晶结构的稳定性。Yin等^[42]研究了中药活性成分对液晶结构的影响。结果表明, 某些天然活性成分的添加可降低液晶乳剂的黏弹性与整体稳定性, 并可一定程度破坏层状液晶的结构, 推测可能与天然活性成分自身的电离性能相关。

5 层状液晶乳化技术制备功能化妆品的工艺影响因素

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层状液晶乳化技术制备功能化妆品的制备工艺对层状液晶结构的形成具有显著影响。研究表明^{[25, 38]}, 制备液晶乳液的过程中, 水相与油相的混合顺序影响所形成的层状液晶的结构, 如采用水相加入油相的混合顺序时, 可形成完整的球形液晶结构。相反, 将油相加入水相, 则制备所得的液晶结构具有明显缺陷。

Li等^[38]以乳滴粒径为指标, 考察了液晶乳化技术制备乳剂过程中剪切乳化时间对液晶乳剂的影响。研究结果表明, 随剪切乳化时间的延长, 乳剂体系内小于10 μm的乳滴数量降低。这可能是由于搅拌因素促进了乳滴的Ostwald熟化效应, 使得小乳滴加速溶解并吸附于大乳滴表面。

在冷却搅拌时, 乳化剂与乳化剂、乳化剂与溶剂之间的范德华力相互作用以形成稳定的层状液晶结构。若冷却时无搅拌带来的剪切外力, 在高温条件下, 分子间的范德华力不足以克服分子的无规则热运动, 最终会导致乳剂的分层现象^{[16, 38]}。因此, 为了能形成稳定的层状液晶结构, 液晶乳化技术制备功能化妆品过程中冷却时的搅拌温度应大于500 r·min^-1 ^[38]。此外, 冷却时间的长短会影响层状液晶结构中双分子层间的间距。冷却时间越长, 层间距越大, 反之越小^[38]。过大的层间距可加速液晶结构中活性物质的释放, 缩短产品的有效放置时间^[23]。

6 层状液晶乳化技术包载天然活性物质的功能化妆品及相关上市产品

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包载适宜的天然活性物质可提高液晶乳剂化妆品的功效, 更好地发挥皮肤护理作用。目前该领域已有许多成功的探索, 如Rocha-filho等^[43]采用液晶乳化技术包载葵花籽油, 研究结果表明, 在剪切乳化加热条件下, 葵花籽油仍表现出优异的抗氧化活性, 且不干扰体系的pH、电导率及流变行为。Iwai等^[44]合成了结构类似于构成角质层细胞间脂质的神经酰胺的伪神经酰胺, 并将其包入了层状液晶结构的化妆品中。最终制备所得的液晶乳剂化妆品因具有与皮肤结构类似的功能活性成分, 在渗透性、皮肤闭塞等方面表现出优异的皮肤护理特性, 且能有效修复皮肤皱纹并保持角质层长期水合。Caritá等^[45]利用层状液晶多层结构的特点, 将抗氧剂维生素C包载于层状液晶结构中, 可避免其被氧化降解, 有效的实现了维生素C的皮肤局部递送。鉴于液晶乳化技术在制备功能化妆品方面的优越性, 目前已有多个采用液晶乳化技术制备并上市的功能化妆品产品, 其中大部分包载有天然活性成分, 对液晶乳液功能化妆品的制备具有参考意义。表 3对目前已上市的部分液晶乳化功能护肤品进行了归纳整理, 并概述了各类护肤品的功能活性成分及相应的功效。

7 层状液晶乳化技术在功能化妆品中应用的不足

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尽管层状液晶乳化技术应用于功能化妆品领域具有明显的优势, 但液晶功能化妆品的推广与使用仍有诸多限制。制备方面, 受剪切速率、冷却速率和搅拌速率等工艺参数的影响^[38], 所得液晶结构往往存在液晶形成几率小、形状不完整、单位面积内数量少等缺点^{[7, 11]}。目前国内外针对液晶乳化剂的研究主要集中于烷基糖苷类乳化剂和蔗糖酯类乳化剂^[7], 导致乳化剂的应用种类较少且难以推广。此外, 液晶乳化剂虽然可以在实验条件下维持层状液晶结构, 但在皮肤温度附近, 液晶结构难以保持完整性^[11]。功能性方面, 有研究报道向层状液晶结构中加入部分活性成分会降低液晶结构的稳定性^[42], 但由于相关研究较少, 导致液晶结构稳定性降低的活性成分种类及相关的机制有待进一步阐明。综上, 丰富液晶乳化剂种类、优化层状液晶化妆品的制备工艺及处方配比、深入研究层状液晶结构与功能活性分子之间相互作用机制, 有望进一步拓展液晶乳化技术在功能化妆品中的应用。

8 总结与展望

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近年, 化妆品领域市场竞争激烈, 化妆品新宠层出不穷, 传统的化妆品已然不具备竞争优势, 故各大厂商积极寻求新的化妆品技术。作为一类新型的载体体系, 层状液晶特殊的“油/液晶/水”结构使其在提高乳液、膏类和霜类等化妆品的稳定性、保湿性和安全性等方面表现出优异性能。含有层状液晶结构的化妆品尤其是功能化妆品具有良好的发展前景。但目前关于层状液晶化妆品的研究大部分停留在乳剂基质的制备, 向层状液晶中加入天然的功能活性成分的液晶功能化妆品的研究尚处于起步阶段。因此, 开发含有天然功能活性成分的层状液晶结构类功能化妆品有望发挥更佳的美容护肤效果。

作者贡献: 所有作者均参与了液晶乳化技术的调研; 张毅负责本文的撰写; 陈微、韩艳琪、孙倩雯、高越、叶军、王洪亮、高丽丽等开展文献调研; 杨艳芳参与本文的指导与修订; 刘玉玲获取经费资助并参与了本文的修订。

利益冲突: 本文所有作者声明不存在利益冲突关系。

基金

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中国医学科学院医学与健康科技创新工程(CIFMS-2021-I2M-1-026)
北京市自然科学基金资助项目(7212155)

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2024年第59卷第2期

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文章信息

doi: 10.16438/j.0513-4870.2023-1177

接收时间：2023-10-17
首发时间：2025-11-28
出版时间：2024-02-12

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收稿日期：2023-10-17
修回日期：2024-01-02

基金

中国医学科学院医学与健康科技创新工程(CIFMS-2021-I2M-1-026)

北京市自然科学基金资助项目(7212155)

作者信息

中国医学科学院、北京协和医学院药物研究所, 北京 100050

通讯作者:

^*刘玉玲, Tel: 86-10-89285191, E-mail: ylliu@imm.ac.cn;

杨艳芳, Tel: 86-10-89285113, E-mail: yangyf@imm.ac.cn

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2种不同金属材料的力学参数

科 Family	属数 Number of genus	种数 Number of species	占总种数比例 Percentage of total species (%)	属 Genus	种数 Number of species	占总种数比例 Percentage of total species (%)
鹅膏菌科Amanitaceae	2	11	5.26	鹅膏菌属 Amanita	10	4.78
小菇科 Mycenaceae	2	12	5.74	丝盖伞属 Inocybe	5	2.39
多孔菌科 Polyporaceae	8	14	6.70	蜡蘑属 Laccaria	5	2.39
红菇科 Russulaceae	3	23	11.00	小皮伞属 Marasmius	6	2.87
				小菇属 Mycena	11	5.26
				光柄菇属 Pluteus	5	2.39
				红菇属 Russula	17	8.13
				栓菌属 Trametes	5	2.39

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Ingredient	Category	Name	CAS number
Oil	Synthetic oil	Squalane	111-01-3
	Synthetic oil	GTCC	65381-09-1
	Synthetic oil	IPP	142-91-6
	Synthetic oil	Silicone oil	63148-62-9
	Mineral oil	Liquid paraffin	8012-95-1
	Mineral oil	Vaseline	8009-03-8
	Mineral oil	Ceresin wax	8002-74-2
	Mineral oil	Ozocerite	12198-93-5
	Mineral oil	Microcrystalline wax	8001-75-0
	Vegetable oil	Olive oil	8001-25-0
	Vegetable oil	Shea butter	68424-60-2
	Vegetable oil	Lauric acid	143-07-7
	Vegetable oil	Myristate	544-63-8
	Vegetable oil	Palmitic acid	57-10-3
	Vegetable oil	Stearin	111-61-5
	Vegetable oil	Oleic acid	112-80-1
	Vegetable oil	Linoleic acid	60-33-3
	Animal oil	Lanolin	8006-54-0
	Animal oil	Triglyceride	538-24-9
Polymer	Inorganic water-soluble polymer	Aluminum magnesium silicate	12511-31-8
	Inorganic water-soluble polymer	Sodium magnesium silicate	53320-86-8
	Organic semi synthetic polymers	Carboxymethyl cellulose	9000-11-7
	Organic semi synthetic polymers	Hydroxyethyl cellulose	9004-62-0
	Organic semi synthetic polymers	Hydroxypropyl cellulose	9004-64-2
	Organic semi synthetic polymers	Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate	9087-61-0
	Organic synthetic polymer	Polyethylene glycol	25322-68-3
	Organic synthetic polymer	Polyvinylpyrrolidone	9003-39-8
	Organic synthetic polymer	Carbomer	54182-57-9
	Organic synthetic polymer	Polyacrylamide	9003-05-8
	Organic natural polymer	Xanthan gum	11138-66-2
	Organic natural polymer	Guar gum	9000-30-0
Preservative	Nipagin esters	Methyl hydroxybenzoate	99-76-3
	Nipagin esters	Ethylparaben	120-47-8
	Nipagin esters	Propylparaben	94-13-3
	Nipagin esters	Butylparaben	94-26-8
	-	Sodium benzoate	532-32-1
		DMDM hydantoin	6440-58-0
		Imidazolidinyl urea	39236-46-9
		Pentanediol	5343-92-0
		Hexanediol	629-11-8
		Octanediol	629-41-4
Co-emulsifier	-	Glycerine	56-81-5
		Cetyl alcohol^{[7, 11, 35]}	36653-82-4
		Octadecanol^{[35, 38]}	112-92-5
		Cetostearyl alcohol^[35]	67762-27-0
		Sodium hydrogen N-(1-oxooctadecyl)-L-glutamate^[16]	79811-24-8
		Sodium dodecyl sulfate^[16]	151-21-3
Humectant	-	Glycerine	56-81-5
		Propylene glycol	57-55-6
		1, 3-Butanediol	107-88-0
		Polyethylene glycol	25322-68-3
		Sorbitol	50-70-4
		Lactic acid & sodium lactate	50-21-5; 72-17-3
		Sodium PCA-Na	28874-51-3
		Sodium hyaluronate	9067-32-7

Ingredient

Category

Name

CAS number

Oil

Synthetic oil

Squalane

111-01-3

Synthetic oil

GTCC

65381-09-1

Synthetic oil

IPP

142-91-6

Synthetic oil

Silicone oil

63148-62-9

Mineral oil

Liquid paraffin

8012-95-1

Mineral oil

Vaseline

8009-03-8

Mineral oil

Ceresin wax

8002-74-2

Mineral oil

Ozocerite

12198-93-5

Mineral oil

Microcrystalline wax

8001-75-0

Vegetable oil

Olive oil

8001-25-0

Vegetable oil

Shea butter

68424-60-2

Vegetable oil

Lauric acid

143-07-7

Vegetable oil

Myristate

544-63-8

Vegetable oil

Palmitic acid

57-10-3

Vegetable oil

Stearin

111-61-5

Vegetable oil

Oleic acid

112-80-1

Vegetable oil

Linoleic acid

60-33-3

Animal oil

Lanolin

8006-54-0

Animal oil

Triglyceride

538-24-9

Polymer

Inorganic water-soluble polymer

Aluminum magnesium silicate

12511-31-8

Inorganic water-soluble polymer

Sodium magnesium silicate

53320-86-8

Organic semi synthetic polymers

Carboxymethyl cellulose

9000-11-7

Organic semi synthetic polymers

Hydroxyethyl cellulose

9004-62-0

Organic semi synthetic polymers

Hydroxypropyl cellulose

9004-64-2

Organic semi synthetic polymers

Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate

9087-61-0

Organic synthetic polymer

Polyethylene glycol

25322-68-3

Organic synthetic polymer

Polyvinylpyrrolidone

9003-39-8

Organic synthetic polymer

Carbomer

54182-57-9

Organic synthetic polymer

Polyacrylamide

9003-05-8

Organic natural polymer

Xanthan gum

11138-66-2

Organic natural polymer

Guar gum

9000-30-0

Preservative

Nipagin esters

Methyl hydroxybenzoate

99-76-3

Nipagin esters

Ethylparaben

120-47-8

Nipagin esters

Propylparaben

94-13-3

Nipagin esters

Butylparaben

94-26-8

Sodium benzoate

532-32-1

DMDM hydantoin

6440-58-0

Imidazolidinyl urea

39236-46-9

Pentanediol

5343-92-0

Hexanediol

629-11-8

Octanediol

629-41-4

Co-emulsifier

Glycerine

56-81-5

Cetyl alcohol^{[7, 11, 35]}

36653-82-4

Octadecanol^{[35, 38]}

112-92-5

Cetostearyl alcohol^[35]

67762-27-0

Sodium hydrogen N-(1-oxooctadecyl)-L-glutamate^[16]

79811-24-8

Sodium dodecyl sulfate^[16]

151-21-3

Humectant

Glycerine

56-81-5

Propylene glycol

57-55-6

1, 3-Butanediol

107-88-0

Polyethylene glycol

25322-68-3

Sorbitol

50-70-4

Lactic acid & sodium lactate

50-21-5; 72-17-3

Sodium PCA-Na

28874-51-3

Sodium hyaluronate

9067-32-7

Category	Trade name	Supplier	INCI name
Alkyl polyglucosides	Montanov^TM68^{[7, 9, 16, 25]}	SEPPIC	Cetearyl alcohol & cetearyl glucoside
	Montanov^TM82^{[7 10, 16, 25]}	SEPPIC	Cetearyl alcohol & coco glucoside
	Montanov^TM202^{[7, 10, 16]}	SEPPIC	Arachidyl alcohol & 1-docosanol & arachidyl glucoside
	Montanov^TML^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}	SEPPIC	C14-20 Alcohols & C12-20 alkyl glucoside
	Montanov^TMS^{[7, 16, 25]}	SEPPIC	Coco glucoside & coconut alcohol
	Emulgin VL 75^{[7, 10, 25]}	Cognis	Lauryl glucoside & polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate & glycerine
	Tego care CG90^{[7, 10, 16]}	Evonik	Cetearyl glucoside
	Giga emulgin S-68^{[7, 16]}	Giga Fine Chemical	Cetearyl glucoside & cetearyl alcohol & sodium hydrogen N-(1-oxooctadecyl)-L-glutamate
	EmulgadePL68/50^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}	BASF	Cetearyl glucoside & cetearyl alcohol
Lecithins	Nikkomulese LC^{[7, 10, 25]}	NIKKOL	1-Docosanol & stearyl alcohol & PEG-20 soy sterol & cetyl alcohol & glyceryl stearate
	Prolipid 141^{[7, 10, 25]}	Ashland	Monoglyceride & 1-docosanol & palmitic acid & stearic acid & lecithin & dodecyl alcohol & 1-tetradecanol
Sucrose esters	Eumulgin sucro^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}	BASF	Sucrose polystearate & hydrogenated polyisobutene
	Arlatone 2121^{[7, 10, 16]}	Croda	Sorbitan stearate & sucrose cocoate
	Oliderm O/W 10^[16]	Sethic	Sucrose stearate ester & cetearyl alcohol & olea europaea
Olive esters	Oliven 1000^{[7, 16, 25]}	B & T	Cetearyl olivate & sorbitan olivate
	OLIVEM 1000K^{[7, 25]}	B & T	Ethoxylated cetyl stearyl alcohol
Phosphate esters	Sensanov WR^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}	SEPPIC	C20-22 Alkyl phosphate & C20-22 alcohols
	AMPHISOL^®K^[16]	DSM	Potassium cetyl phosphate
Stearyls	Biobase S^{[7, 10, 16]}	OTC	Glyceryl stearate & cetearyl alcohol & sodium stearyl lactate
	Nikkol Nikkomulese 41^{[7, 10, 25]}	Nikko	1-Docosanol & polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate & sodium stearyl lactate
	Eumulgin SG^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}	Cognis	Sodium hydrogen N-(1-oxooctadecyl)-L-glutamate

Category

Trade name

Supplier

INCI name

Alkyl polyglucosides

Montanov^TM68^{[7, 9, 16, 25]}

SEPPIC

Cetearyl alcohol & cetearyl glucoside

Montanov^TM82^{[7 10, 16, 25]}

SEPPIC

Cetearyl alcohol & coco glucoside

Montanov^TM202^{[7, 10, 16]}

SEPPIC

Arachidyl alcohol & 1-docosanol & arachidyl glucoside

Montanov^TML^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}

SEPPIC

C14-20 Alcohols & C12-20 alkyl glucoside

Montanov^TMS^{[7, 16, 25]}

SEPPIC

Coco glucoside & coconut alcohol

Emulgin VL 75^{[7, 10, 25]}

Cognis

Lauryl glucoside & polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate & glycerine

Tego care CG90^{[7, 10, 16]}

Evonik

Cetearyl glucoside

Giga emulgin S-68^{[7, 16]}

Giga Fine Chemical

Cetearyl glucoside & cetearyl alcohol & sodium hydrogen N-(1-oxooctadecyl)-L-glutamate

EmulgadePL68/50^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}

BASF

Cetearyl glucoside & cetearyl alcohol

Lecithins

Nikkomulese LC^{[7, 10, 25]}

NIKKOL

1-Docosanol & stearyl alcohol & PEG-20 soy sterol & cetyl alcohol & glyceryl stearate

Prolipid 141^{[7, 10, 25]}

Ashland

Monoglyceride & 1-docosanol & palmitic acid & stearic acid & lecithin & dodecyl alcohol & 1-tetradecanol

Sucrose esters

Eumulgin sucro^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}

BASF

Sucrose polystearate & hydrogenated polyisobutene

Arlatone 2121^{[7, 10, 16]}

Croda

Sorbitan stearate & sucrose cocoate

Oliderm O/W 10^[16]

Sethic

Sucrose stearate ester & cetearyl alcohol & olea europaea

Olive esters

Oliven 1000^{[7, 16, 25]}

B & T

Cetearyl olivate & sorbitan olivate

OLIVEM 1000K^{[7, 25]}

B & T

Ethoxylated cetyl stearyl alcohol

Phosphate esters

Sensanov WR^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}

SEPPIC

C20-22 Alkyl phosphate & C20-22 alcohols

AMPHISOL^®K^[16]

DSM

Potassium cetyl phosphate

Stearyls

Biobase S^{[7, 10, 16]}

OTC

Glyceryl stearate & cetearyl alcohol & sodium stearyl lactate

Nikkol Nikkomulese 41^{[7, 10, 25]}

Nikko

1-Docosanol & polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate & sodium stearyl lactate

Eumulgin SG^{[7, 10, 16, 25]}

Cognis

Sodium hydrogen N-(1-oxooctadecyl)-L-glutamate

Brand	Trade name	Origin	Active ingredient	Application
CeraVe	CeraVe Smoothing Cream	US	Ceramide	Moisturizing and repairing skin barriers
POLA	POLA B.A GRANDLUXE II N	JP	Cinnamon extract, clove flower extract, Luffa fruit extract, Rosa roxburghii fruit extract	Improving skin elasticity
			4-Butylresorcinol	Whitening
			Mongolian artemisia leaf extract	Moisturizing
			Loquat leaf extract	Anti-radiation
			Astragalus extract	Anti-glycation
LEGEND AGE	Legend Age Eye Cream	CN	Pro-xylane	Reducing wrinkles around eyes
			Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, acetyl hexapeptide-8	Reducing wrinkles around eyes
CMM	Royal Age Cream	CN	Polygonum bistorta root extract, Fuscoporia obliqua extract	Repairing skin barriers
			Milk thistle extract	Antioxidation
			Tequila leaf extract	Moisturizing
SynerHerb	SYNERHERB FLAXSEED MICROCRYSTAL EMULSION	CN	Linseed oil	Repairing skin damage
			Vitamin E	Moisturizing
			Sodium hyaluronate	Maintain skin moisture and radiance
FAN BEAUTY DIARY	Gentle Cleaning Foam	CN	Musseladhesiveprotein, fibronectin	Repairing skin damage, antioxidation
			Asiaticoside, purslane extract	Removing heat and dampness, detoxication, relieving swelling
UNISKIN	UNI SKIN REVITAL CREAM	CN	Provitamin B5	Moisturizing, anti-inflammatory
YOUNG SCENT	CERAMELA FIRMING & REVITALIZING ESSENTIAL LOTION	CN	Pro-xylane, rhodococcus pluvialis extract	Antioxidation
			Provitamin B5	Moisturizing, anti-inflammatory
WISH LIST	Cymbidium Revitalizing Essence Water	CN	Nicotinamide	Whitening, anti-inflammatory
			Cymbidium extract	Reducing facial wrinkles
			Ectoin	Repairing skin damage, moisturizing
NICEMIX	GENTLE SOOTHING MOISTURIZING CREAM	CN	Chlamydomonas nivalis extract	Antioxidation
			Succinic acid	Reducing facial wrinkles
FARBERLY	GLAZE TIME CREAM	CN	Ginkgo biloba extract	Antioxidation
			Coenzyme A	Moisturizing
YOGAN	Comforting & Repairing Emulsion	CN	Sodium hyaluronate	Moisturizing
			Ceramide	Repairing skin barriers

Brand

Trade name

Origin

Active ingredient

Application

CeraVe

CeraVe Smoothing Cream

Ceramide

Moisturizing and repairing skin barriers

POLA

POLA B.A GRANDLUXE II N

Cinnamon extract, clove flower extract, Luffa fruit extract, Rosa roxburghii fruit extract

Improving skin elasticity

4-Butylresorcinol

Whitening

Mongolian artemisia leaf extract

Moisturizing

Loquat leaf extract

Anti-radiation

Astragalus extract

Anti-glycation

LEGEND AGE

Legend Age Eye Cream

Pro-xylane

Reducing wrinkles around eyes

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, acetyl hexapeptide-8

Reducing wrinkles around eyes

CMM

Royal Age Cream

Polygonum bistorta root extract, Fuscoporia obliqua extract

Repairing skin barriers

Milk thistle extract

Antioxidation

Tequila leaf extract

Moisturizing

SynerHerb

SYNERHERB FLAXSEED MICROCRYSTAL EMULSION

Linseed oil

Repairing skin damage

Vitamin E

Moisturizing

Sodium hyaluronate

Maintain skin moisture and radiance

FAN BEAUTY DIARY

Gentle Cleaning Foam

Musseladhesiveprotein, fibronectin

Repairing skin damage, antioxidation

Asiaticoside, purslane extract

Removing heat and dampness, detoxication, relieving swelling

UNISKIN

UNI SKIN REVITAL CREAM

Provitamin B5

Moisturizing, anti-inflammatory

YOUNG SCENT

CERAMELA FIRMING & REVITALIZING ESSENTIAL LOTION

Pro-xylane, rhodococcus pluvialis extract

Antioxidation

Provitamin B5

Moisturizing, anti-inflammatory

WISH LIST

Cymbidium Revitalizing Essence Water

Nicotinamide

Whitening, anti-inflammatory

Cymbidium extract

Reducing facial wrinkles

Ectoin

Repairing skin damage, moisturizing

NICEMIX

GENTLE SOOTHING MOISTURIZING CREAM

Chlamydomonas nivalis extract

Antioxidation

Succinic acid

Reducing facial wrinkles

FARBERLY

GLAZE TIME CREAM

Ginkgo biloba extract

Antioxidation

Coenzyme A

Moisturizing

YOGAN

Comforting & Repairing Emulsion

Sodium hyaluronate

Moisturizing

Ceramide

Repairing skin barriers