Article(id=1224798799869133512, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1149651085930835976, issueId=1224798798254326454, articleNumber=null, orderNo=null, doi=10.12284/hyxb2022167, pmid=null, cstr=null, oa=null, hot=null, price=null, onlineType=0, articleFormat=0, articleType=null, articleTypeStr=research-article, receivedDate=1648569600000, receivedDateStr=2022-03-30, revisedDate=1658851200000, revisedDateStr=2022-07-27, acceptedDate=null, acceptedDateStr=null, onlineDate=1769944389550, onlineDateStr=2026-02-01, pubDate=1669824000000, pubDateStr=2022-12-01, doiRegisterDate=null, doiRegisterDateStr=null, onlineIssueDate=1769944389550, onlineIssueDateStr=2026-02-01, onlineJustAcceptDate=null, onlineJustAcceptDateStr=null, onlineFirstDate=null, onlineFirstDateStr=null, sourceXml=null, magXml=null, createTime=1769944389550, creator=13701087609, updateTime=1769944389550, updator=13701087609, issue=Issue{id=1224798798254326454, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1149651085930835976, year='2022', volume='44', issue='12', pageStart='1', pageEnd='160', issueExtLink='null', onlineDate='null', pubDate='null', beforeIssueId=null, nextIssueId=null, price=null, status=1, issueComplete=1, articleOrder=1, issueType=-1, specialIssue=null, createTime=1769944389165, creator=13701087609, updateTime=1769996131500, updator=13701087609, preIssue=null, nextIssue=null, ext={EN=IssueExt(id=1225015821399900229, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1149651085930835976, issueId=1224798798254326454, language=EN, specialIssueTitle=, coverIllustrator=null, specialIssueEditor=, specialIssueAbout=), CN=IssueExt(id=1225015821399900230, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1149651085930835976, issueId=1224798798254326454, language=CN, specialIssueTitle=, coverIllustrator=null, specialIssueEditor=, specialIssueAbout=)}, issueFiles=null}, startPage=1, endPage=8, ext={EN=ArticleExt(id=1224798800104014549, articleId=1224798799869133512, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1149651085930835976, language=EN, title=Progress of edge waves research, columnId=1200807624443818795, journalTitle=Haiyang Xuebao, columnName=Review, runingTitle=null, highlight=null, articleAbstract=

Due to the effect of refraction, a special phenomenon that propagates along the shoreline occurs during the nearshore propagation of waves, which are called edge waves. The edge waves propagate parallel to the shoreline, and their amplitude is the largest at the shoreline, and its amplitude decreases exponentially in the direction away from the shoreline, and their energy is limited to a distance of one wavelength from the coast. So the edge waves have an important impact on the engineering and landforms of the near-shore area. This paper expounds on the research history and research progress of edge waves and mainly introduces the following aspects: (1) the theory of edge waves based on different governing equations and different terrains; (2) the actual observed edge wave characteristics; (3) the wave-making method of edge waves in the physical model test and the observed edge wave characteristics; (4) the application of numerical simulation methods in the study of edge waves. Finally, the future research trend of edge waves is presented.

, correspAuthors=Yu Zhang, authorNote=null, correspAuthorsNote=null, copyrightStatement=Copyright © 2022 Pratacultural Science. All rights reserved., copyrightOwner=null, extLink=null, articleAbsUrl=null, sourceXml=null, magXml=null, pdfUrl=null, pdf=null, pdfFileSize=null, pdfExtLink=null, richHtmlUrl=null, mobilePdfUrl=null, reviewReport=null, pdfFirstPage=null, abstractGraph=null, abstractGraphContent=null, abstractVideo=null, citation=null, cebUrl=null, magXmlContent=null, mapNumber=null, authorCompany=null, fund=null, authors=null, authorsList=Weibing Feng, Di Zhang, Yu Zhang, Gang Wang, Xi Feng, Jiayan Yang, Ran Tao), CN=ArticleExt(id=1224798800695411447, articleId=1224798799869133512, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1149651085930835976, language=CN, title=边缘波研究进展, columnId=1189609213333594548, journalTitle=海洋学报, columnName=综述, runingTitle=null, highlight=null, articleAbstract=

由于折射作用,在波浪近岸传播过程中会出现一种特殊的、沿着岸线传播的波浪,这种波浪被称为边缘波。边缘波平行于岸线传播,其振幅在岸线处最大,在远离岸线的方向,其振幅呈指数型减小,它们的能量基本被限制在离海岸一波长的距离之内,因此边缘波对近岸地区工程、地貌等有着重要影响。本文对边缘波的研究历史、研究进展进行了阐述,主要介绍了以下几个方面:(1)基于不同控制方程、不同地形上的边缘波理论;(2)实际观测到的边缘波特性;(3)物理模型试验中边缘波的造波方式以及观测到的边缘波特性;(4)数值模拟方法在边缘波研究中的应用。最后,展望了边缘波在未来的研究趋势。

, correspAuthors=张俞, authorNote=null, correspAuthorsNote=
张俞,女,博士,主要从事波浪理论及工程应用方面的研究。E-mail:
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冯卫兵(1960-),男,江苏省海门市人,博士,主要从事近海水动力环境及物质扩散数模和物模、波浪理论及工程波浪的研究计算。E-mail:

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冯卫兵(1960-),男,江苏省海门市人,博士,主要从事近海水动力环境及物质扩散数模和物模、波浪理论及工程波浪的研究计算。E-mail:

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冯卫兵(1960-),男,江苏省海门市人,博士,主要从事近海水动力环境及物质扩散数模和物模、波浪理论及工程波浪的研究计算。E-mail:

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The shaded plane is the water surface, WW is the shoreline, VV is the position of the wave surface observed in the test, A1B1B2A2 is the movable plate, FG is the fixed axis, C1D1, C2D2 are the fixed false walls

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阴影部分平面为水面,WW为岸线,VV为试验中观察波面的位置,A1B1B2A2为可移动的板,FG为固定轴,C1D1C2D2为固定的假墙

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边缘波研究进展
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冯卫兵 1 , 张迪 1 , 张俞 1, * , 王岗 1 , 冯曦 1 , 杨佳岩 2 , 陶然 2
海洋学报 | 综述 2022,44(12): 1-8
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海洋学报 | 综述 2022, 44(12): 1-8
边缘波研究进展
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冯卫兵1 , 张迪1 , 张俞1, * , 王岗1, 冯曦1, 杨佳岩2, 陶然2
作者信息
  • 1.河海大学 港口海岸与近海工程学院 海岸灾害及防护教育部重点实验室,江苏 南京 210098
  • 2.中国港湾工程有限责任公司,北京 100027
  • 冯卫兵(1960-),男,江苏省海门市人,博士,主要从事近海水动力环境及物质扩散数模和物模、波浪理论及工程波浪的研究计算。E-mail:

通讯作者:

张俞,女,博士,主要从事波浪理论及工程应用方面的研究。E-mail:
Progress of edge waves research
Weibing Feng1 , Di Zhang1 , Yu Zhang1, * , Gang Wang1, Xi Feng1, Jiayan Yang2, Ran Tao2
Affiliations
  • 1. Key Laboratory of Coastal Disaster and Protection, Ministry of Education, College of Harbour, Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Hohai University, Nanjing 210098, China
  • 2. China Harbour Engineering Company Limited, Beijing 100027, China
出版时间: 2022-12-01 doi: 10.12284/hyxb2022167
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由于折射作用,在波浪近岸传播过程中会出现一种特殊的、沿着岸线传播的波浪,这种波浪被称为边缘波。边缘波平行于岸线传播,其振幅在岸线处最大,在远离岸线的方向,其振幅呈指数型减小,它们的能量基本被限制在离海岸一波长的距离之内,因此边缘波对近岸地区工程、地貌等有着重要影响。本文对边缘波的研究历史、研究进展进行了阐述,主要介绍了以下几个方面:(1)基于不同控制方程、不同地形上的边缘波理论;(2)实际观测到的边缘波特性;(3)物理模型试验中边缘波的造波方式以及观测到的边缘波特性;(4)数值模拟方法在边缘波研究中的应用。最后,展望了边缘波在未来的研究趋势。

边缘波  /  理论推导  /  现场观测  /  物理模型试验  /  数值模拟  /  生成机制

Due to the effect of refraction, a special phenomenon that propagates along the shoreline occurs during the nearshore propagation of waves, which are called edge waves. The edge waves propagate parallel to the shoreline, and their amplitude is the largest at the shoreline, and its amplitude decreases exponentially in the direction away from the shoreline, and their energy is limited to a distance of one wavelength from the coast. So the edge waves have an important impact on the engineering and landforms of the near-shore area. This paper expounds on the research history and research progress of edge waves and mainly introduces the following aspects: (1) the theory of edge waves based on different governing equations and different terrains; (2) the actual observed edge wave characteristics; (3) the wave-making method of edge waves in the physical model test and the observed edge wave characteristics; (4) the application of numerical simulation methods in the study of edge waves. Finally, the future research trend of edge waves is presented.

edge waves  /  theoretical derivation  /  field observation  /  physical modelling experiments  /  numerical simulation  /  generation mechanism
冯卫兵, 张迪, 张俞, 王岗, 冯曦, 杨佳岩, 陶然. 边缘波研究进展. 海洋学报, 2022 , 44 (12) : 1 -8 . DOI: 10.12284/hyxb2022167
Weibing Feng, Di Zhang, Yu Zhang, Gang Wang, Xi Feng, Jiayan Yang, Ran Tao. Progress of edge waves research[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 2022 , 44 (12) : 1 -8 . DOI: 10.12284/hyxb2022167
边缘波是波浪在近岸传播过程中,由于折射作用出现的一种特殊的、沿着岸线传播的波浪。边缘波平行于岸线传播,其振幅在岸线处最大,在远离岸线的方向,其振幅呈指数型减小,它们的能量基本被限制在离海岸一波长的距离之内。由于边缘波的能量主要集中在近岸,且岸线处振幅最大,因此其对近岸水动力系统、岸滩地貌等有较大影响。
边缘波常常会伴随海啸[1-2]或风暴潮[3]发生,对沿海地区造成淹没威胁。González等[4]分析了1992年4月25日的门多西诺角地震引发的海啸,发现部分海啸波被困成为边缘波。2021年Koyano等[2]分析了海啸波的传播过程,发现当传播过程中产生边缘波时,海啸波的能量衰减速度极大降低,这对沿岸防灾减灾有着重要影响。
1971年Bowen和Inman[5]在对边缘波进行现场观测的同时也对边缘波与岸滩上新月形地貌的关系进行了研究,随后Guza和Inman[6]也对边缘波与滩嘴形成的关系进行了研究。他们发现边缘波的空间形态和这些岸滩的形态有一定关系。2008年Almar等[7]观测了新西兰泰鲁瓦海滩的海滩尖角,认为边缘波在其形成中起到一定作用。
可见,边缘波对近岸水动力系统的影响是不可忽视的,有关边缘波的研究也越来越多。本文主要从不同的研究方法入手,阐述了已有的一些边缘波研究成果。
1847年,Stokes[8]通过线性水波理论,首次发现了在均匀斜坡海滩上传播的边缘波,此时边缘波还仅存在于理论解中。Stokes解的表达式为
$ \phi {\text{ = }}\frac{{Ag}}{\omega }\sin \beta \exp \left( { - {k_y}x\cos \beta + {k_y}z\sin \beta } \right)\sin \left( {{k_y}y - \omega t} \right) \text{,} $
$ \eta = A\sin \beta \exp \left( { - {k_y}x\cos \beta } \right)\cos \left( {{k_y}y - \omega t} \right) \text{,} $
频散关系为
$ {\omega ^2} = g{k_y}\sin \beta \text{,} $
式中,ϕ为速度势函数;η为相对静水面的波面高度;x为离岸方向;y为沿岸方向;$z $为垂直水面向上的方向;A为岸线处波幅;β为斜坡坡度;ω为波浪角频率;ky为边缘波在沿岸方向的波数。Stokes解表明,边缘波的速度场和波幅在岸线处都是最大的,并在向海方向呈指数型下降,且边缘波沿岸传播,其波峰垂直于海岸线。
之后的100多年里,边缘波并未被重视,直到1951年,Eckart[9]根据线性浅水方程给出了均匀斜坡海滩上边缘波的解析解,其解为
$ {\phi _n} = \frac{{{A_n}g\beta }}{\omega }\exp \left( { - {k_n}x} \right){L_n}\left( {2{k_n}x} \right)\sin \left( {{k_n}y - \omega t} \right) \text{,} $
$ {\eta _n} = {A_n}\beta \exp \left( { - {k_n}x} \right){L_n}\left( {2{k_n}x} \right)\cos \left( {{k_n}y - \omega t} \right) \text{,} $
频散关系为
$ {\omega ^2} = g{k_n}\beta \left( {2n + 1} \right) \text{,} $
式中,n为非负整数(n=0, 1, 2, 3, ···),表示边缘波的模态数;An为岸线处振幅;$ {L_n}\left( {2{k_n}x} \right) $为n阶拉盖尔多项式,其展开形式为
$ {L_n}\left( {2{k_n}x} \right) = \frac{{{{\rm{e}}^{2{k_n}x}}}}{{n!}}\frac{{{{d} ^n}}}{{{d} {{\left( {2{k_n}x} \right)}^n}}}\left[ {{{\rm{e}}^{ - 2{k_n}x}}{{\left( {2{k_n}x} \right)}^n}} \right] . $
此解包含了无限个模态的边缘波,表明除了Stokes模态的边缘波外,还存在其他模态的边缘波。当β→0时,Eckart解中的0模态解约等于Stokes解,因此0模态通常也被称为Stokes模态。
1952年,Ursell[10]基于全水方程(Full Water-wave Equation)给出了斜坡上边缘波的线性解析解。同样的,Ursell也证明了在均匀斜坡上存在Stokes模态以外的边缘波模态,并且其中0模态边缘波即为Stokes给出的解析解。但与Eckart基于浅水理论的解不同,Ursell给出的解析解中,边缘波的模态数量为有限个,其个数取决于海滩坡度,
$ \left( {2n + 1} \right)\beta \leqslant \frac{\text{π} }{2} . $
式(8)表明,随着坡度的减小,斜坡上可能存在的模态数会增加。Ursell的解表达式如下
$\begin{split}& {\phi _n} = \frac{{{\alpha _n}g}}{\omega }\times\\&\left\{ \begin{gathered} \exp \left( { - {k_n}x\cos \beta + {k_n}z\sin \beta } \right) \\ + \sum\limits_{m = 1}^n {{A_{mn}}\left\{ \begin{gathered} \exp \left[ { - {k_n}x\cos \left( {2m - 1} \right)\beta - {k_n}z\sin \left( {2m - 1} \right)\beta } \right] \\ + \exp \left[ { - {k_n}x\cos \left( {2m{\text{ + }}1} \right)\beta + {k_n}z\sin \left( {2m + 1} \right)\beta } \right] \\ \end{gathered} \right\}} \\ \end{gathered} \right\}\times\\&\sin \left( {{k_n}y - \omega t} \right) \text{,} \\[-10pt]\end{split}$
$\begin{split}& {\eta _n} = {\alpha _n}\times\\&\left\{ {\exp \left( { - {k_n}x\cos \beta } \right) + \sum\limits_{m = 1}^n {{A_{mn}}\left\{ \begin{gathered} \exp \left[ { - {k_n}x\cos \left( {2m - 1} \right)\beta } \right] \\ + \exp \left[ { - {k_n}x\cos \left( {2m{\text{ + }}1} \right)\beta } \right] \\ \end{gathered} \right\}} } \right\}\times\\&\cos \left( {{k_n}y - \omega t} \right) \text{,} \\[-10pt]\end{split}$
式中,
$ {A_{mn}} = {\left( { - 1} \right)^m}\prod\limits_{j = 1}^m {\frac{{\tan \left( {n - j + 1} \right)\beta }}{{\tan \left( {n + j} \right)\beta }}} \text{,} $
αn为常数。频散关系为
$ {\omega ^2} = g{k_n}\sin \left( {2n + 1} \right)\beta \text{,} $
n=0时,Amn=0,α0=sin β
以Ursell的研究为代表的,基于全水方程的均匀斜坡上边缘波的解析解相对Eckart的解来说较为复杂,理论上可以适应水深较深、坡角较大的情况,并且对高模态的边缘波也可以很好地描述。Eckart解的优点是形式简单,由于是由浅水方程而来,因此在水深较浅的区域能较好地反映实际情况。而实际上,边缘波由于其自身的特点(沿岸传播,在岸线处有最大的振幅,在离岸方向振幅衰减),主要也是出现在水深较浅的近岸区域,并且其频率通常较低、波长较长,因此浅水方程基本可以较好地描述边缘波的动力特性。
此后,随着边缘波在实测中被发现,越来越多的研究者对边缘波进行了理论研究。考虑到实际海洋动力环境复杂,因此有必要进一步考虑非线性作用。非线性对边缘波系统的一个重要影响是允许能量在系统之间传递[11],比如在入射波和边缘波之间转移,或者在不同模态不同频率的边缘波之间转移。1971年,Gallagher[12]认为,次重力边缘波可以通过重力波间的非线性相互作用来激发。基于浅水近似,Guza和Davis[13]以及Guza和Bowen[14]研究了入射波群不稳定性对边缘立波的激发及边缘波的演化过程。发现边缘波可以通过入射波以及两个相反方向的推进波之间的弱非线性相互作用,从入射波中提取能量来增长,其振幅最终将达到一个平衡值。Guza和Inman[6]重新研究了Guza和Davis[13]的扰动方程,并提出同步边缘波可能通过高阶非线性相互作用来激发。Whitham[15]描述了斜坡上基于浅水方程和全水方程的小振幅近似中的非线性效应,之后Minzoni[16]将这项工作扩展到有限长的斜坡上。Rockliff[11]研究了基于浅水近似的同步边缘波共振激发。1994年Schäuffer[17]研究了短波波群对于边缘波的激发,发现只有当入射角较大的时候,边缘波才会出现。1995年,Blondeaux和Vittori[18]基于三维全水波理论,阐述了一种同步边缘波的激发机制,通过弱非线性分析,不仅考虑了各模态边缘波与入射波的相互作用,还考虑了不同模态边缘波之间的非线性相互作用。研究发现,当选择了合适的横向波长时,非线性效应可以将能量从次谐波模式传递到同步波模式,这种能量转移会导致同步波和次谐波模式的增长。2010年,Hong和Zhang[19]基于全水方程,提出斜坡地形上边缘波非线性相互作用的二阶解析解,讨论了两个边缘波之间的相互作用。2019年Vittori等[20]基于窄波带随机入射波的假设,通过弱非线性稳定性研究了入射波的随机性对次谐边缘波激发的影响。综上,非线性效应对于边缘波的演化及其激发机制的研究有着重要意义,尤其是对于由入射波(群)激发的边缘波。
除了可以由入射波(群)激发以外,现有研究表明边缘波也可以由大气(风)扰动以及海底滑坡等因素激发。1956年,Greenspan[21]基于线性浅水方程推导出了斜坡海岸上平行岸线移动的大气压力扰动激发的边缘波波面表达式。该解较好地预测了由压力扰动引起的边缘波的准稳态特征,并且与实测数据在定性上一致,但此解不能预测边缘波刚生成时的状态。2002年,Liu等[22]给出了一种由环岛附近大气压力产生的边缘波的解析解。2014年,Seo和Liu[23]基于Greenspan[21]针对大气压力扰动引起的推进型边缘波解,讨论了Greenspan解的局限性,推导了新的关于大气压力扰动引起的边缘推进波解析解,并且同样提出了边缘波的激发条件。2013年Seo和Liu[24]基于浅水方程从理论上研究了任意形状滑坡运动对于平直的均匀斜坡海岸上推进型边缘波的激发,给出了解析解,并研究了由此生成的边缘推进波的空间形态及发展过程。
上述研究均基于均匀斜坡海滩,但实际海底剖面可能会出现一些变化,从而改变边缘波的特性。1967年Ball[25]基于线性浅水方程,考虑了科氏力存在或不存在两种条件,给出了大尺度凹指数剖面上边缘波的解析解,并讨论了波浪被捕获的截止频率和波数。1973年Clarke[26]给出了岸线处水深为0时的凸指数地形上的边缘波解析解,其解表明,对于高频波,任意模态的沿岸方向波数均无截断点,这与Ball[25]的结果形成了鲜明对比。1984年Evans和Mciver[27]给出了矩形暗礁地形上边缘波的解析解。1986年Louis和Clarke[28]给出了由3个参数表达的指数剖面上的边缘波解析解。2011年Wang等[29]推导了均匀斜坡底床港湾中的振荡的解析解,并指出港湾中的横向振荡即为边缘立波。2016年Shao等[30]给出了抛物线形港池内边缘波立波的解析解。2017年Shao等[31]给出了折坡地形港池内边缘波立波的解析解。2022年Zhang等[32]给出了存在海堤的凸指数地形上边缘波的解析解。以上研究均表明,不同地形上边缘波的频散关系不同,因此其运动特性也不同,可见地形对边缘波的特性影响较为明显。但目前不同地形上边缘波的研究多针对边缘波的空间分布和运动特性,不同地形对于边缘波激发特性的影响有待进一步研究。
随着边缘波在理论中被提出,也有越来越多的学者在实际中观测到边缘波。1954年6月26日密歇根湖浪潮发生10 d后,又出现了一场波动,Donn和Ewing[33]将此次实际观测到的波速与Stocks理论解进行对比,结果吻合,因此判断此次波动现象为边缘波。1964年Munk等[34]在加利福尼亚州欧申赛德海岸也观测到了边缘波。根据现场数据进行能量分布分析,发现0、1或2模态的边缘波占主导地位,其频率分布主要在0.000 6~0.003 Hz范围内。Huntley和Bowen[35]在英格兰斯拉普顿海滩进行了观测,发现除了频率为0.2 Hz的风浪外,还出现了一个频率为0.1 Hz的次谐波峰值。次谐波的振幅在离岸方向的幅值变化与边缘波理论趋势比较一致。这一观察结果支持Guza和Davis[13]给出的理论预测,他们认为次谐Stocks边缘立波是由入射波激发的。1981年,Huntley等[36]在加利福尼亚州托利松海滩进行了观测,发现频谱在0.07 Hz处显示出明显的峰值,这与观察到的入射涌浪频率一致。此外,在碎波拍频段(0.005~0.03 Hz)中也含有大量能量,其中大部分能量集中在0模态和1模态的渐进边缘波中,其频率主要分布在0.006~0.011 Hz以及0.015~0.025 Hz范围内。进一步分析发现频率为0.007 81 Hz的0模态边缘波和0.015 63 Hz的1模态的边缘波,作者认为不同频率范围内主导的边缘波模态不同,这一现象在后续Oltman-Shay和Guza[37]的研究中给出了解释。1987年,Oltman-Shay和Guza[37]根据线性浅水方程的边缘波解析解,提出沿岸方向波能随着频率的增加从低模态转移到高模态,这一点也在实际观测中得到了证实。总体上,实际观测中低模态边缘波占主导,随着频率的增加,波能从低模态转移到高模态。
也有学者在观测中发现边缘波和某些特殊地形相关[5-7]。此外,也有研究者对一些极端条件下产生的波动进行了观测。Aagaard[38]于1991年观测到了风暴引起的较为强烈的推进型边缘波与边缘立波,并分析了其对于岸滩地形的影响。2002年Liu等[22]分析了风暴过后巴利阿里群岛附近闭锁的边缘波。2021年Koyano[2]分析了海啸波的传播过程,发现当传播过程中产生边缘波时,海啸波的能量衰减速度极大降低。
总的来说,在过去的几十年中,边缘波在不同地区被广泛地观测到,通过对观测结果的分析,人们大致了解了自然界中边缘波的运动形式及特征(包括其波高、可能出现的频率等等),从观测结果中也发现了边缘波动力特性与近岸区域地形地貌具有一定的关系。
物理模型试验与现场观测相比,需要的资金更少、可控性更好、数据更容易采集。因此,也有很多学者在实验室开展了边缘波的物理模型试验研究。由于边缘波沿岸线传播,因此物模试验中的造波环节尤为重要,以往试验中常用的有垂直岸线入射及平行岸线入射两种方式。
图1所示,Ursell[10]构造了一个具有可变坡度的小型实验室海滩,并在静水线附近的侧壁处使用推波板造波。Ursell通过将水槽的斜坡部分整体沿岸线方向来回移动,来模拟边缘波沿岸传播的特性,并达到沿海向衰减的效果。但是限于当时的试验条件,试验中并未观测比较完整的边缘波形态,只是给出了对边缘波线性理论的一些验证。Yeh[39]使造波板围绕一个固定的垂直轴在沿岸方向左右摆动,以制造沿岸方向的波动。试验主要研究了0模态边缘波,同时也提到了在其试验中观察到其他模态边缘波的存在性。1998年Liu等[40]在水槽中进行了物理模型试验,通过平行于岸线的入射波激发边缘波,试验发现低频范围内,0模态的边缘波占主导。
1969年,Bowen和Inman[41]采用不同的试验地形研究了实验室中的边缘波(主要是边缘立波),认为斜坡海岸上产生的边缘波可以由垂直岸线入射的波浪所引起。他们在港池中设计了正对造波板的均匀斜坡,并设置了两侧相隔一定距离的直墙(纵板),以便边缘立波在两侧边壁之间的空间中生成和发展。Bowen和Inman[41]主要对边缘波在岸线处爬高爬落的形态进行了研究,采用染料追踪岸线的位置及伴随边缘波出现的流动现象,并且指出了受两面直墙(纵板)约束时,可能产生的边缘波的性质,包括其周期、占主导地位的模态等等。Guza和Bowen[42]于1976年进行了试验。他们在长18 m,宽15 m的港池中设置了坡度为7°的均匀斜坡,并用不同周期的波浪正向入射,将测得的边缘波波形与理论解进行对比,对比结果良好。
2015年,笔者及团队在均匀斜坡上进行了边缘波的物理模型试验。试验采用了两种造波方式。如图2a所示,第一种为Bowen和Inman[41]提出的方法,即由正向入射的波浪激发边缘波,并且在Bowen和Inman[41]提出方法的基础上增加了对波面的观测,将边缘立波的沿岸波长与理论进行了比较,试验结果与理论基本相符。并且在两块直墙之间的区域内观测到了稳定存在的边缘立波和伴随出现的裂流现象,裂流位置亦与理论预测相符。如图2b所示,第二种为笔者及团队新提出的方法,即由横向入射波浪产生边缘波,阐述了这种生成边缘波方法的原理,并对均匀斜坡上推进型边缘波和边缘立波的特性进行了研究。其中对均匀斜坡上边缘立波的研究中,将新提出的波浪横向入射的方法与Bowen和Inman[41]提出的两块直墙(纵板)形成边缘立波的附加边界条件相结合,把入射波浪对横向振动的影响,在所关心的区域内降到最低,同时又使入射波可以持续地给两板之间的水体输入能量,这样可以使关心的区域内波形主要为形成的边缘立波。
因为解析解难以计算较为复杂的情况,而实际观测和物理模型试验成本较高,且边缘波不易分离,难以清晰地探索各个因素对边缘波的影响以及边缘波的演变过程。随着计算机的发展,数值模拟逐渐成为一种有效的研究手段。
FUNWAVE-TVD[43]、MIKE21[44]等波浪模型均可用以边缘波数值模拟。另外也有学者开发了针对边缘波的数值模型。1999年Sheremet和Guza[45]推导了一个可以考虑弱频散性的Boussinesq型方程用以研究较缓的斜坡海岸上的边缘波,并且可以考虑有沿岸流存在时的情况。这个弱频散性的Boussinesq型方程比不考虑频散性的浅水方程能更精确地描述边缘波的运动,同时又比完全频散性的椭圆型缓坡方程具有更加简单的形式。他们用无沿岸流情况下的均匀斜坡上的边缘波解析解验证模型,得到了较好的结果。2017年,Wang等[46]基于扩展的Boussinesq方程和内波生成方法,建立了边缘波数值模型,此方法可以产生高质量的边缘波。并利用该数值模型研究了边缘立波的非线性特性,数值结果与理论吻合较好。2017年Lu等[47]基于缓坡方程和沿岸方向为周期性波浪的假设,得到二阶常微分方程,用于边缘波的数值模拟。
还有一些学者通过数值模拟的方法,研究了更为复杂的边缘波产生及其演变过程。2016年,Shao等[44]研究了抛物线港池内水面扰动产生的边缘立波。2009年Yankovsky[48]证明,飓风登陆可以产生大规模的边缘波。2012年An等[49]基于线性浅水方程,对斜坡海岸上平行岸线移动的大气压力引发的边缘波进行了数值求解,获得了各种物理参数的数值解,包括风暴大小,风暴速度和海滩坡度。2020年Niu[50]基于非线性浅水方程,针对斜坡海岸上平行岸线移动的大气压力激发的边缘波进行了数值模拟,求出了水面高程,进一步探讨了边缘波产生的关键条件,其中包括扰动的空间尺度和平移速度、海滩坡度以及水面的瞬态响应,并主要考虑了产生显著边缘波包所需的增长时间。2005年,Lynett和Liu[51]基于Boussinesq数值模型,给出了滑坡引起的水面高程分布图以及波面过程线。结果表明边缘波成为近岸主导的波浪形式,这些边缘波也表现出了色散现象,其中波长较长的边缘波迅速远离源区,波长较短的边缘波传播更为缓慢。2008年Sammarco和Renzi[52]建立了求解海底滑坡体运动引起的波浪现象的数学模型,给出了由高斯形状滑坡体运动产生的浅水边缘波解。Wang等[53],Shao等[54]分别于2011年和2017年采用数值模拟的方法,研究了斜坡港池内滑坡产生的边缘立波。
边缘波作为一种常见的近岸波浪,是近岸水动力系统中不可忽视的因素。从边缘波被发现以来,有许多学者采用不同的方法对边缘波进行了研究,其主要关注点在:边缘波的空间分布特性、边缘波的运动特性、入射波(边缘波)–边缘波之间的能量传递、边缘波的激发机制等方向。虽然关于边缘波的研究已有不少,但仍有一些方面有待进一步研究:
(1)目前基于斜坡地形上的边缘波研究众多,但是近岸地形复杂,且地形对边缘波特性影响较大,因此有必要进一步研究其他地形上边缘波的特性。目前其他地形上边缘波的研究多集中于边缘波的空间部分特性及运动特性上,对于复杂地形上边缘波的激发机制、能量传递等研究较少,因此后续在这方面有待进一步研究。
(2)近年来,海岸带灾害频发,边缘波经常伴随海啸、风暴潮等产生,由于其能量被限制在近岸,对沿岸人民的生命财产造成威胁,因此观测、模拟极端条件下边缘波的产生、传播及其演变过程将有助于海岸带防灾减灾。
(3)现有研究表明,边缘波的激发机制主要为:入射波(群)激发、大气(风)扰动激发、海底滑坡激发等。目前的研究多为单一扰动激发,但在实际中,大气(风)扰动或者海底滑坡的同时,也伴随着入射波等其他水动力影响,因此未来或许可以尝试结合多种因素研究边缘波的激发机制及其传播特性。
  • 中长周期波浪条件下港口工程建造关键技术研究(ZJ2015-1)
  • 装备预研教育部联合基金(8091B022123)
  • 国家自然科学基金(52201321)
  • 中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金(B200203072)
  • 江苏省研究生科研与实践创新计划(KYCX20_0482)
  • 江苏省科技计划专项(2022023)
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2022年第44卷第12期
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doi: 10.12284/hyxb2022167
  • 接收时间:2022-03-30
  • 首发时间:2026-02-01
  • 出版时间:2022-12-01
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  • 收稿日期:2022-03-30
  • 修回日期:2022-07-27
基金
中长周期波浪条件下港口工程建造关键技术研究(ZJ2015-1)
装备预研教育部联合基金(8091B022123)
国家自然科学基金(52201321)
中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金(B200203072)
江苏省研究生科研与实践创新计划(KYCX20_0482)
江苏省科技计划专项(2022023)
作者信息
    1.河海大学 港口海岸与近海工程学院 海岸灾害及防护教育部重点实验室,江苏 南京 210098
    2.中国港湾工程有限责任公司,北京 100027

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张俞,女,博士,主要从事波浪理论及工程应用方面的研究。E-mail:
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2种不同金属材料的力学参数

Family
属数
Number of
genus
种数
Number of
species
占总种数比例
Percentage of
total species (%)

Genus
种数
Number of
species
占总种数比例
Percentage of total
species (%)
鹅膏菌科Amanitaceae 2 11 5.26 鹅膏菌属 Amanita 10 4.78
小菇科 Mycenaceae 2 12 5.74 丝盖伞属 Inocybe 5 2.39
多孔菌科 Polyporaceae 8 14 6.70 蜡蘑属 Laccaria 5 2.39
红菇科 Russulaceae 3 23 11.00 小皮伞属 Marasmius 6 2.87
小菇属 Mycena 11 5.26
光柄菇属 Pluteus 5 2.39
红菇属 Russula 17 8.13
栓菌属 Trametes 5 2.39
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