Article(id=1224796542373086109, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1149651085930835976, issueId=1224796541123187467, articleNumber=null, orderNo=null, doi=10.12284/hyxb2022076, pmid=null, cstr=null, oa=null, hot=null, price=null, onlineType=0, articleFormat=0, articleType=null, articleTypeStr=research-article, receivedDate=1624896000000, receivedDateStr=2021-06-29, revisedDate=1634659200000, revisedDateStr=2021-10-20, acceptedDate=null, acceptedDateStr=null, onlineDate=1769943851321, onlineDateStr=2026-02-01, pubDate=1649952000000, pubDateStr=2022-04-15, doiRegisterDate=null, doiRegisterDateStr=null, onlineIssueDate=1769943851321, onlineIssueDateStr=2026-02-01, onlineJustAcceptDate=null, onlineJustAcceptDateStr=null, onlineFirstDate=null, onlineFirstDateStr=null, sourceXml=null, magXml=null, createTime=1769943851321, creator=13701087609, updateTime=1769943851321, updator=13701087609, issue=Issue{id=1224796541123187467, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1149651085930835976, year='2022', volume='44', issue='4', pageStart='1', pageEnd='168', issueExtLink='null', onlineDate='null', pubDate='null', beforeIssueId=null, nextIssueId=null, price=null, status=1, issueComplete=1, articleOrder=1, issueType=-1, specialIssue=null, createTime=1769943851023, creator=13701087609, updateTime=1769995927739, updator=13701087609, preIssue=null, nextIssue=null, ext={EN=IssueExt(id=1225014966755934250, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1149651085930835976, issueId=1224796541123187467, language=EN, specialIssueTitle=, coverIllustrator=null, specialIssueEditor=, specialIssueAbout=), CN=IssueExt(id=1225014966755934251, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1149651085930835976, issueId=1224796541123187467, language=CN, specialIssueTitle=, coverIllustrator=null, specialIssueEditor=, specialIssueAbout=)}, issueFiles=null}, startPage=122, endPage=133, ext={EN=ArticleExt(id=1224796542641521569, articleId=1224796542373086109, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1149651085930835976, language=EN, title=Numerical simulation of rip current in Jinsha Bay, Shenzhen based on XBeach model, columnId=1194652705852465724, journalTitle=Haiyang Xuebao, columnName=Article, runingTitle=null, highlight=null, articleAbstract=

Jinsha Bay is one of the most important tourist attractions in the Guangdong-Hong Kong-Macao Greater Bay Area and is favored by tourists from all over the world. The XBeach model is used to simulate the nearshore circulation of the Jinsha Bay, and the occurrence of rip current under different simulated wave conditions is studied. The results show that the rip current in the Jinsha Bay is largely affected by wave height and topography. Under the condition of annual mean significant wave height, there is no rip current along the Jinsha Bay. When the incident wave height exceeds a certain threshold, the risk of rip current increases. The intensity and offshore distance of the rip current are positively correlated with the incident wave height. When the wave direction is perpendicular to the coast, it is the best for the generation of rip current. The beach manager of the Jinsha Bay should improve the early warning of the wave condition in order to reduce the harm caused by the rip current. In addition, due to the characteristics of the long headland, the feeder current of the deflection rips generated by the Jinsha Bay comes from the alongshore currents of the headland and the beach. This can be verified by subsequent field observations. The work of this paper also provides some references for the domestic simulation research of rip current using XBeach model.

, correspAuthors=Zhiqiang Li, authorNote=null, correspAuthorsNote=null, copyrightStatement=Copyright © 2022 Pratacultural Science. All rights reserved., copyrightOwner=null, extLink=null, articleAbsUrl=null, sourceXml=null, magXml=null, pdfUrl=null, pdf=null, pdfFileSize=null, pdfExtLink=null, richHtmlUrl=null, mobilePdfUrl=null, reviewReport=null, pdfFirstPage=null, abstractGraph=null, abstractGraphContent=null, abstractVideo=null, citation=null, cebUrl=null, magXmlContent=null, mapNumber=null, authorCompany=null, fund=null, authors=null, authorsList=Pengpeng Hu, Zhiqiang Li, Daoheng Zhu, Gaocong Li, Qianxin Su), CN=ArticleExt(id=1224796549276909738, articleId=1224796542373086109, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1149651085930835976, language=CN, title=基于XBeach模型的深圳金沙湾裂流的数值模拟, columnId=1149698756456657529, journalTitle=海洋学报, columnName=论文, runingTitle=null, highlight=null, articleAbstract=

金沙湾是粤港澳大湾区重要的滨海旅游景点之一,深受世界各地游客的青睐。利用XBeach模型模拟金沙湾海滩的近岸环流,研究了不同模拟波况下裂流的发生情况。结果表明,金沙湾产生裂流很大程度上受到波高和地形的影响,在年平均有效波高波况下,金沙湾沿岸无明显裂流,当入射波高超过某个阈值后,沿岸裂流风险提高。裂流的强度和离岸距离与入射波高呈正相关,波向增加不利于海滩处裂流的产生,但有利于偏斜裂流的形成,金沙湾的海滩管理者应该提高对波浪状况的预警,以降低因裂流而导致的危害。另外,由于长岬角特征,金沙湾产生的偏斜裂流的补偿流来自岬角和海滩的沿岸流,这一点需要通过后续的现场观测进行对比验证。本文的工作可为使用XBeach模型对裂流进行模拟研究提供参考。

, correspAuthors=李志强, authorNote=null, correspAuthorsNote=
李志强(1974-),男,博士,教授,研究方向为海滩过程、海岸工程环境。E-mail:
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胡鹏鹏(1998-),男,江西省南昌市人,主要从事海岸水动力及裂流研究。E-mail:

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胡鹏鹏(1998-),男,江西省南昌市人,主要从事海岸水动力及裂流研究。E-mail:

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P1 and P2 are stations

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P1、P2为站位

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Different simulated incident wave conditions

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波况有效波高
(Hs)/m
峰值波周期
(Tp)/s
峰值波角
(θp)/(°)
波向
10.1950S
20.7550S
30.5050S
41.0050S
50.75522.5SSW
60.75562.5WSW
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不同的模拟入射波条件

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(Hs)/m
峰值波周期
(Tp)/s
峰值波角
(θp)/(°)
波向
10.1950S
20.7550S
30.5050S
41.0050S
50.75522.5SSW
60.75562.5WSW
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基于XBeach模型的深圳金沙湾裂流的数值模拟
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胡鹏鹏 1 , 李志强 1, * , 朱道恒 1 , 李高聪 1 , 苏倩欣 1
海洋学报 | 论文 2022,44(4): 122-133
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海洋学报 | 论文 2022, 44(4): 122-133
基于XBeach模型的深圳金沙湾裂流的数值模拟
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胡鹏鹏1 , 李志强1, * , 朱道恒1, 李高聪1, 苏倩欣1
作者信息
  • 1.广东海洋大学 电子与信息工程学院,广东 湛江 524088
  • 胡鹏鹏(1998-),男,江西省南昌市人,主要从事海岸水动力及裂流研究。E-mail:

通讯作者:

李志强(1974-),男,博士,教授,研究方向为海滩过程、海岸工程环境。E-mail:
Numerical simulation of rip current in Jinsha Bay, Shenzhen based on XBeach model
Pengpeng Hu1 , Zhiqiang Li1, * , Daoheng Zhu1, Gaocong Li1, Qianxin Su1
Affiliations
  • 1. School of Electronics and Information Engineering, Guangdong Ocean University, Zhanjiang 524088, China
出版时间: 2022-04-15 doi: 10.12284/hyxb2022076
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金沙湾是粤港澳大湾区重要的滨海旅游景点之一,深受世界各地游客的青睐。利用XBeach模型模拟金沙湾海滩的近岸环流,研究了不同模拟波况下裂流的发生情况。结果表明,金沙湾产生裂流很大程度上受到波高和地形的影响,在年平均有效波高波况下,金沙湾沿岸无明显裂流,当入射波高超过某个阈值后,沿岸裂流风险提高。裂流的强度和离岸距离与入射波高呈正相关,波向增加不利于海滩处裂流的产生,但有利于偏斜裂流的形成,金沙湾的海滩管理者应该提高对波浪状况的预警,以降低因裂流而导致的危害。另外,由于长岬角特征,金沙湾产生的偏斜裂流的补偿流来自岬角和海滩的沿岸流,这一点需要通过后续的现场观测进行对比验证。本文的工作可为使用XBeach模型对裂流进行模拟研究提供参考。

XBeach  /  数值模拟  /  偏斜裂流  /  粤港澳大湾区  /  金沙湾

Jinsha Bay is one of the most important tourist attractions in the Guangdong-Hong Kong-Macao Greater Bay Area and is favored by tourists from all over the world. The XBeach model is used to simulate the nearshore circulation of the Jinsha Bay, and the occurrence of rip current under different simulated wave conditions is studied. The results show that the rip current in the Jinsha Bay is largely affected by wave height and topography. Under the condition of annual mean significant wave height, there is no rip current along the Jinsha Bay. When the incident wave height exceeds a certain threshold, the risk of rip current increases. The intensity and offshore distance of the rip current are positively correlated with the incident wave height. When the wave direction is perpendicular to the coast, it is the best for the generation of rip current. The beach manager of the Jinsha Bay should improve the early warning of the wave condition in order to reduce the harm caused by the rip current. In addition, due to the characteristics of the long headland, the feeder current of the deflection rips generated by the Jinsha Bay comes from the alongshore currents of the headland and the beach. This can be verified by subsequent field observations. The work of this paper also provides some references for the domestic simulation research of rip current using XBeach model.

XBeach  /  numerical simulation  /  deflection rips  /  the Guangdong-Hong Kong-Macao Greater Bay Area  /  Jinsha Bay
胡鹏鹏, 李志强, 朱道恒, 李高聪, 苏倩欣. 基于XBeach模型的深圳金沙湾裂流的数值模拟. 海洋学报, 2022 , 44 (4) : 122 -133 . DOI: 10.12284/hyxb2022076
Pengpeng Hu, Zhiqiang Li, Daoheng Zhu, Gaocong Li, Qianxin Su. Numerical simulation of rip current in Jinsha Bay, Shenzhen based on XBeach model[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 2022 , 44 (4) : 122 -133 . DOI: 10.12284/hyxb2022076
裂流是因岸滩入射波高的变化和波浪增减,使水在沿岸方向分布不均匀,导致水位分布不均,从而产生辐射应力,其驱动了裂流产生[1]。沿岸不均匀性的形成有各种原因,如波浪运动的不稳定性和波浪的非线性相互作用[2-4]。裂流在近岸物质(如悬浮沉积物、浮游生物、营养物质和其他漂浮物质)向海输移方面发挥着重要的作用[5-6]。裂流是近岸最为致命的自然灾害之一,对海滩上游客的生命安全有着严重的威胁[7-8]。据估计,世界每年发生的海滩救援事故中有50%~90%与裂流有关[9]。澳大利亚每年约有25 000起海滩溺水事故,与裂流有关的占89%[10]。美国每年平均死于裂流的人数估计在35~100人[11-12]
Shepard[13]最早提出“裂流”这一概念,此后对其理论、观测、实验和数值模型等多方面进行了研究[14]。1962年Longuet-Higgins和Stewart[15]提出使用辐射应力的概念解释波生流产生机制之后,近岸流的数值模拟研究取得了很大的进展。与现场观测和物理实验等方法相比,数值模拟所需的实验成本较小且可以直观再现流场随时间变化的过程。国内外众多专家学者已经采用数值模拟对裂流进行了研究。XBeach模型是模拟裂流最先进的模型之一,模拟结果的精确度较高,在国外已经被广泛运用[16-19]。在国内,目前该模型在岸堤防护评价、植被消浪研究中有所应用[20-22],但对裂流的模拟研究较少。国内最常用模拟裂流的数值模型是基于完全非线性Boussinesq方程的FUNWAVE波浪模型[23-25],该模型能模拟受随机波浪影响下的快速变化的裂流。不过为了设置模型的周期性侧边界条件以消除侧边界误差,需要保证侧边界的地形差异不能太大。XBeach模型可以通过在侧边界设置流边界和潮汐边界条件以忽略两侧边界地形不均的影响。
金沙湾是粤港澳大湾区重要的滨海旅游景点之一,深受世界各地游客的青睐。大鹏半岛在金沙湾东侧形成岬角导致金沙湾两侧地形差异巨大。本文使用XBeach模型模拟金沙湾海滩的近岸环流,研究在不同的波浪条件下裂流的发生情况,为金沙湾的海滩管理提供参考。
金沙湾地处广东省深圳市大鹏半岛(图1b),南临大鹏湾,与香港隔海相望,距香港最近仅4.17 km,见图1a。金沙湾的地理位置十分优越,其拥有海滨公园、海滨度假区等众多旅游设施,是深圳东部黄金海岸的重要景点之一。随着粤港澳大湾区经济的高速发展,金沙湾也受到了世界各地游客的青睐。金沙湾海滩是长度约为2.2 km的平直型海滩,大鹏半岛在海滩东侧形成岬角,远离大鹏半岛一侧是广阔的海域。根据距离海滩最近的秤头角观测站的资料统计可知,金沙湾平均潮差为0.93 m,平均高潮位为1.70 m,最大潮差为2.51 m,潮汐属于不规则半日混合潮。月平均有效波高为0.14~0.26 m,全年最大有效波高可达1.32 m(图2),常浪向为S向,次浪向为SSW向。图1c为金沙湾卫星影像图。
XBeach模型是为了模拟海滩上极端风暴响应而开发的[26],但也被广泛用于模拟破波带内流体动力[27]。XBeach模型解决了波浪传播、水流、泥沙输运和床面变化的2D水平耦合问题。该模型包括1个具有方向扩展的非平稳波浪驱动器,它解释了波浪群的冲浪运动,这些运动对于精确模拟裂流很重要[28]。本文对模型的理论和控制方程不作详细说明,均可以在公开的官方手册和网站(https://oss.deltares.nl)上找到。
本研究的岸滩和水下地形是由金沙湾的实测地形数据(比例尺1∶100)和海图资料(比例尺1∶10 000)拼接获取。实测近岸地形测量范围为由岸向海延伸268 m,外海水深通过矢量化海图后插值得到,最后将两者统一到相同的坐标系上,如图3所示。水下测量采用数字化测深仪配合GPS-RTK无验潮测深法,该方法精度及效率较高,可较好地消除波浪、潮汐、水位落差等影像。在靠近海滩左侧附近有一片海底暗礁区,由于该暗礁区无测深数据,因此,数值模拟区的范围选择为该暗礁区边缘至岬角处。
x−y坐标由经纬度坐标转换而得到,x轴和y轴方向上的距离分别为925 m和1 696 m,空间网格大小(单个网格的长和宽)dx=5 m和dy=4 m。岬角位于150~640 m(x轴)和0~75 m(y轴)间,在300~400 m(x轴)有1个海湾将岬角截断为上、下两部分。在x=800 m,y=1 586 m处有1块露出水面的礁石。图3上的红线标记了5个跨海岸地形剖面的位置,剖面图如图4所示。金沙湾岬角与海滩近似垂直,因此以y轴方向作为岬角处的跨岸方向。在4组海滩跨岸剖面中,水深随y值的增大而增加,表明远岬角一侧的水深大于近岬角一侧(图3)。另外,从图中也能看出,远岬角一侧(如剖面y=1 448 m)的地形变化相对更大。y=380 m、y=628 m、y=1 008 m 3处剖面分别都有一个水下沙坝(Bar3、Bar2、Bar1)存在,位于(x,y)=(670 m,380 m)、(700 m,628 m)、(780 m,1 008 m)处,沙坝的深度在水下约2 m。x=500 m是一个岬角跨岸剖面,在海岸向海100 m的范围内,岬角处的地形坡度明显大于其他4个海滩跨岸剖面。
利用JONSWAP参数谱在XBeach模型离岸边界上产生不规则波,通过JONSWAP峰值增强系数($ \gamma $=3.3)和方向扩展系数(s=10°)来控制波谱的扩展,离岸的流边界设置为弱反射边界。为了研究不同波况条件下裂流的产生情况,使用不同波高、峰值波角的波浪条件模拟了金沙湾海滩的近岸环流,表1显示了本次实验不同的输入波条件,波况1的波高为金沙湾年平均有效波高,其他波高为模拟波高。假设在模型域外沿岸是均匀的,侧边界上波流均选用Neumann边界。禁用潮汐信号选项,初始水位设置为0。模拟的时间步长dt=1 s,模型总模拟时间为3 600 s,以保证波浪达到稳定状态。对于本研究的所有模拟,XBeach模型仅在流体动力学模式下运行,考虑到波浪在到达近岸后会受到非线性的影响,流体动力学选择Surf beat模块。CFL是计算流体动力学中,判断计算的收敛条件,选用默认值0.7。关闭形态动力学选项(沉积物输送和底部变化),以最大限度地减少计算时间。其他物理和经验系数设置与模型手册中的默认值保持一致。
根据地形测深对包括裂流在内的近岸环流进行了数值模拟。XBeach模型输出的变量H是均方根波高(Hrms),有效波高(Hs)可通过零阶矩波高(Hm0 =Hrms×$ \sqrt{2} $)对其进行评估[29]。破波带外侧边缘设定为近岸平均翻滚耗散大于0.1倍最大值的位置[30]图5中黑色虚线表示破波带外侧边缘位置。图5显示,在波况1下通过数值计算得到计算域的平均水位、平均有效波高和流速,其中图5a图5b表示总模拟时间的后120 s水位和有效波高的平均值,图5c表示在模拟时间为3 600 s时获得的流速。在图5a中,平均水位的变化不明显,破波带宽度很小且几乎靠近岸线,从图5c中可以看出沿岸并没有裂流产生,图5b中沿岸波高呈现不均匀的分布,表明金沙湾地形具备裂流发生的条件,但由于波高较低无法驱动裂流的产生。金沙湾的月平均有效波高基本维持在0.2 m上下,总体上海滩发生裂流的风险较低。但金沙湾的月最大有效波高变化较大,最大时有效波高(1.32 m)甚至接近年平均有效波高(0.19 m)的7倍,当有效波高增大时,金沙湾海滩发生裂流的风险也将升高。
裂流的产生需要一定的波高条件,金沙湾的年平均有效波高较低不利于裂流产生。为了进一步探究在更高的波高条件下,金沙湾沿岸地形对裂流产生的影响,以波况2下的模拟结果作为案例进行分析。图6是在波况2下的平均水位,平均波高和流速的数值计算结果,计算方式与图5相同,在图6b中添加了2 m等深线(红色实线)以标示沙坝的位置。与波况1相比,当有效波高为0.75 m时有明显的裂流产生。如图6a所示,海滩位置的破波带宽度明显大于岬角处,这是因为岬角处近岸海底地形坡度较陡,变化过大,导致波浪迅速破碎。图6a显示,破波带以外的水位变化不明显,当进入破波带后,波浪破碎,水量开始积累,平均水位也增加,在海岸线处的水位最高。图6b所示的波高分布很好地显示出金沙湾海岸不均匀的地形特征。从沿岸破波带的不均匀分布可以发现,波高近岸的变化是由于波浪受到近岸不规则地形的影响而发生不均匀破碎导致的。
Bar1、Bar2、Bar3都处于波高较高的区域,从图6b可以看出这3个水下沙坝均位于破波带(黑色虚线)外侧,沙坝位于水下约2 m处,波浪在经过沙坝时没有发生破碎。图6c显示了发生裂流的4个裂流(Rip1、Rip2、Rip3和Rip4)。
图7分别是图6b图6c中4处裂流区域波高和流速的放大图,箭头标示了裂流的位置。Rip1处于较低波高区域,图7a图7e箭头所示的下侧有一处高波高区,上侧平均波高相对较低。在Rip1的上方有1块露出水面的礁石,在该礁石处的破波带宽度比其他位置更宽,在礁石前有一处高波高区,波高达0.8 m,礁石后的波高迅速降低至0.1 m上下。图7e显示了礁石对其所在位置的近岸环流的控制作用,在其影响下,礁石上下分别发育了向上和向下的沿岸流,向下的沿岸流成为了Rip1的补偿流。在图7e下方(y=1 300~1 350 m)也有一处离岸水流,该水流流出破波带后向外延伸了100多米,Rip1在流出破波带后逐渐流向该水流,不过该水流的流速较小。Rip2、Rip3和Rip4的裂流颈两侧平均波高高于流出位置,与Rip2相比,Rip3和Rip4两侧高波高区面积更大。图7f显示了Rip2的形态,可以看出Rip2的离岸距离是4个裂流中最小的,约50 m左右,这可能与其补偿流的流速较小有关。Rip3离岸有一定距离,其下方的补偿流流速较大。Rip4流出最远,离岸距离约150 m,与此对应的是其裂流根部两侧均有着流速较快的补偿流。裂流的流出距离受到其裂流根部补偿流流速和数量的影响。补偿流的流速越大、数量越多,裂流的离岸距离越远。图7d显示岬角处的波高相对较低,波高变化较小。在靠近岬角的一侧出现了一束流速较小的离岸水流,来自海滩和岬角的沿岸流成为其补偿流。
为了探究不同波高条件下近岸环流的变化及裂流的发育情况,通过改变JONSWAP谱的有效波高得到波况3、波况4(图8图9)。图8图9计算方式同图5图6a图8a图9a表明,随着入射波谱的有效波高逐渐增大,破波带宽度逐渐变宽,近岸增水量增加。通过图9b中计算的破波线范围可以判断,当波高增大到1.0 m/s时,在Bar1和Bar2两处有一片小范围的离岸破碎区,波浪经过沙坝时发生了一次破碎,之后到达近岸处又破碎一次,在Bar3处波浪破碎线向海外凸。从图6b图8b图9b所示的波高分布来看,岬角处的波高一直处于一个相对较低的值且增加不明显,这可能是由于岬角对波浪的遮蔽作用所导致的,来自外海波浪的一部分能量被岬角消耗,图中靠近外海的岬角出现较强的沿岸流也暗示了这一点。另外,波高变化也导致近岸流速产生了剧烈变化。图10显示了不同波高下的流速超过0.2 m/s的流场范围,与Hs=0.19 m相比,入射波高增加至0.5 m时,平均波高在模拟区域的分布变化更加显著,而且近岸出现了多条裂流,但流速较小且离岸流出距离较短。Hs=1.0 m时,流速增加,规模较大的裂流出现了6个。
以波况2下出现的4个裂流区域为例,图11图12是波况3、波况4在Rip1至Rip4区域的平均波高和流速的放大图。在波况2出现裂流的相同位置,均有离岸水流的出现,但在Hs=0.5 m波况下离岸强度不大。入射波高增大到1.0 m后裂流强度明显增强,图11图12中的裂流均从相对两侧的低波高处流出。与其他几个区域裂流离岸流动流出破波带不同,图12f中箭头所示的裂流在破波带内再循环流动[31]。再循环流动会导致近岸物质在破波带内循环往复运动而无法流出破波带。
改变波谱峰值波向角度以研究近岸裂流的发生情况。图13为相同波高,不同峰值波向下流速场的数值计算结果(t=3 600 s)。从图13可以看出,随着入射波峰值波角(θp)增大,破波带宽度变化不大。当θp=22.5°时,海滩近岸的沿岸流得到加强,裂流发生的数量和强度降低。以Rip3区域为例,上侧有一个向下的沿岸流向破波线外偏转产生裂流,但裂流的离岸距离大约只有破波带的宽度。另外在岬角处的离岸水流发育偏斜裂流,当岬角或海滩上的丁坝等人工建筑截断破波带产生的沿岸流时,使其向近海偏转从而产生这种裂流[32]。当θp增大到62.5°时,海滩沿岸产生强烈的沿岸流,并始终保持在破波带内,近岸无裂流产生,岬角处的偏斜裂流强度增强,离岸流出距离增加。从图14所示的平均波高分布可知,随着入射波角的增大,岬角区域的波高增大。
通过模拟发现,在金沙湾的岬角处产生了偏斜裂流,其强度对θp的敏感性较高,并随着θp的增大而增强。偏斜裂流的补偿流分别来自海滩和岬角的沿岸流,这与 McCarroll等[33]在澳大利亚的鲸鱼海滩现场观测到的偏斜裂流不同,其观测到的偏斜裂流的补偿流仅来自于海滩的沿岸流,并向岬角倾斜。金沙湾的岬角长度相对于鲸鱼海滩更长且近似垂直于海滩,鲸鱼海滩的岬角只有很短一部分垂直海滩并快速向外海倾斜,这可能是造成两者产生区别的原因。为了研究两种补偿流的差异,在偏斜裂流的两侧,即补偿流的岬角和海滩来源处分别部署站点P1和P2(图3)以获得两处的流速。图15显示,总模拟时间后20 min的速度时间序列,从图中可以看出P1的流速始终大于P2,随着θp的增大,P1和P2两站点的流速增加。岬角处的坡度相比于海滩更陡,波浪触底时间更晚,波能损失相对更小,在破碎时可以释放更大的能量,所以在岬角处产生的沿岸流的流速高于海滩沿岸流,同时金沙湾的长岬角特征有利于这种沿岸流的保持,因此,产生了不同于McCarroll等[33]的观测结果。当θp增加时,峰值波向与海滩夹角减小,海滩沿岸流得到加强。
裂流的形成受到波高、波向、自然岬角和近岸不规则地形等多种因素的影响[32]。模拟结果表明,金沙湾年平均有效波高(0.19 m)较小,难以形成裂流。当入射波有效波高增加到0.5 m时,平均波高分布和流场与波况1相比变化显著,海滩沿岸有裂流产生(图8),因此入射波高在0.19~0.5 m之间存在一个能够驱动裂流产生的波高阈值,该阈值的确定还需进一步的研究。Hs≥0.5 m时,波高越高会导致波浪更早触底而发生变形破碎,沿岸大多数位置都产生了裂流,尤其在Bar1至Bar3处特征更明显。入射波向也是影响裂流产生的另一个重要的因素。当θp=0时最容易产生裂流,随着θp增大,沿岸流逐渐增强,裂流数量和离岸强度逐渐降低。图6图7表明,金沙湾水下地形对波浪传播的影响很大,这是因为受到地形影响后波浪发生不均匀破碎后导致波高分布不均,裂流从相对于两侧波高较低的波高低谷流出,这验证了裂流的沿岸波高分布不均的成因理论。另外,由于金沙湾岬角较长,岬角对近岸环流的控制作用更加显著,岬角处也产生了强烈的沿岸流,并成为了偏斜裂流的补偿流之一。偏斜裂流的强度随θp的变化与海滩处裂流相反,随波高变化相同,这是需要关注的现象。这现象与鲸鱼海滩因海滩的沿岸流受到岬角截断而发生偏转形成裂流不同[33],后续将开展现场观测进行对比验证。由于上述裂流影响因素对金沙湾海区均有作用,其具体影响方式和作用强度还要进一步探讨。
金沙湾深入大鹏湾内,受到大鹏半岛及周围岛屿的遮蔽作用,到达此处的波浪条件相对较弱,导致金沙湾月平均有效波高维持在较低水平。但从最大有效波高分布来看,全年逐月的最大波高基本大于或接近0.5 m(图2),处于旅游旺季的6−10月更是显著超过0.5 m,这是裂流出现概率较大的波况。作为深圳著名的滨海旅游景区,金沙湾每年要接待大量来自世界各地的游客,因此,做好海滩的裂流预警和海滩管理工作是十分必要的。
海滩岬角遮蔽处水下地形平缓,沙质较细,波浪较小,成为一些游泳能力较弱游客戏水的首选岸段。本文模拟结果显示,当出现入射波向角(WSW)较大时,大鹏半岛岬角会导致强烈的朝向岬角的沿岸流产生,其以补偿流形式在岬角附近形成偏斜裂流,这一现象也得到了现场海滩浴场管理人员证实,这表明,有岬角遮蔽的区域也不一定是一个安全的地带,需要加强警惕。华南海岸以岬间海滩为主,这一现象的揭示对众多海滩的浴场管理有重要意义。
作为粤港澳大湾区重要的滨海旅游景点之一,金沙湾每年会接待大量来自世界各地的游客,金沙湾裂流可能对海滩游客的生命安全造成严重的威胁。本文使用XBeach模型研究了金沙湾裂流在不同模拟波况下的发生情况。在年平均波高的波况下,金沙湾的裂流风险较低。当波高超过0.5 m后,受金沙湾地形的影响,模拟区波高分布变化显著,沿岸有裂流产生。裂流受地形的影响较大,裂流颈总是倾向从相对于两侧波高较低的波高低谷流出,增加波高可以促进裂流强度和离岸距离的增加。入射波向对海滩处裂流和偏斜裂流的影响相反,入射波角增大,海滩处的裂流强度减弱,偏斜裂流强度增强。另外,在金沙湾的岬角区域会产生偏斜裂流,与McCarroll等[33]观测结果不同的是,其补偿流来源于海滩和岬角的沿岸流,这可能是金沙湾的长岬角特征造成的,需要通过后续的现场观测进行对比验证。本文的研究工作有助于金沙湾的海滩管理工作,也为国内使用XBeach模型对裂流进行模拟研究提供了一些参考。
  • 国家自然科学基金(42176167,41676079)
  • 广东海洋大学创新强校工程(Q18307)
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2022年第44卷第4期
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doi: 10.12284/hyxb2022076
  • 接收时间:2021-06-29
  • 首发时间:2026-02-01
  • 出版时间:2022-04-15
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  • 收稿日期:2021-06-29
  • 修回日期:2021-10-20
基金
国家自然科学基金(42176167,41676079)
广东海洋大学创新强校工程(Q18307)
作者信息
    1.广东海洋大学 电子与信息工程学院,广东 湛江 524088

通讯作者:

李志强(1974-),男,博士,教授,研究方向为海滩过程、海岸工程环境。E-mail:
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2种不同金属材料的力学参数

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total species (%)

Genus
种数
Number of
species
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Percentage of total
species (%)
鹅膏菌科Amanitaceae 2 11 5.26 鹅膏菌属 Amanita 10 4.78
小菇科 Mycenaceae 2 12 5.74 丝盖伞属 Inocybe 5 2.39
多孔菌科 Polyporaceae 8 14 6.70 蜡蘑属 Laccaria 5 2.39
红菇科 Russulaceae 3 23 11.00 小皮伞属 Marasmius 6 2.87
小菇属 Mycena 11 5.26
光柄菇属 Pluteus 5 2.39
红菇属 Russula 17 8.13
栓菌属 Trametes 5 2.39
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