Article(id=1322945339090678146, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1283840372199657495, issueId=1322945338570584450, articleNumber=null, orderNo=null, doi=10.3724/SP.J.1123.2025.06027, pmid=null, cstr=null, oa=null, hot=null, price=null, onlineType=0, articleFormat=0, articleType=null, articleTypeStr=research-article, receivedDate=1750694400000, receivedDateStr=2025-06-24, revisedDate=null, revisedDateStr=null, acceptedDate=null, acceptedDateStr=null, onlineDate=1793344347975, onlineDateStr=2026-10-30, pubDate=1765123200000, pubDateStr=2025-12-08, doiRegisterDate=null, doiRegisterDateStr=null, onlineIssueDate=1793344347975, onlineIssueDateStr=2026-10-30, onlineJustAcceptDate=null, onlineJustAcceptDateStr=null, onlineFirstDate=null, onlineFirstDateStr=null, sourceXml=null, magXml=null, createTime=1793344347975, creator=13701087609, updateTime=1793344347975, updator=13701087609, issue=Issue{id=1322945338570584450, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1283840372199657495, year='2025', volume='43', issue='12', pageStart='1287', pageEnd='1403', issueExtLink='null', onlineDate='null', pubDate='1765123200000', pubDateStr='2025-12-08', beforeIssueId=null, nextIssueId=null, price=null, status=1, issueComplete=1, articleOrder=1, issueType=-1, specialIssue=null, createTime=1793344347851, creator='13701087609', updateTime=1793345143825, updator='13701087609', preIssue=null, nextIssue=null, articleTotal=null, ext={EN=IssueExt(id=1322948677182038279, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1283840372199657495, issueId=1322945338570584450, language=EN, specialIssueTitle=, coverIllustrator=null, specialIssueEditor=, specialIssueAbout=), CN=IssueExt(id=1322948677182038280, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1283840372199657495, issueId=1322945338570584450, language=CN, specialIssueTitle=, coverIllustrator=null, specialIssueEditor=, specialIssueAbout=)}, issueFiles=null, downloadFileDto=null}, startPage=1380, endPage=1388, ext={EN=ArticleExt(id=1322945342576144771, articleId=1322945339090678146, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1283840372199657495, language=EN, title=Determination of five photoinitiators including 2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl diphenyl phosphine oxide in gel nail polish by high performance liquid chromatography, columnId=1284557502633185292, journalTitle=Chinese Journal of Chromatography, columnName=Articles, runingTitle=null, highlight=null, articleAbstract=
Gel nail polish has surged in global popularity, becoming a dominant force in the cosmetics market due to its compelling advantages. This rapid market expansion, however, is shadowed by significant and growing safety concerns related to the essential chemical agents enabling its functionality—photoinitiators (PIs). Classified as a Category 1B CMR substance (carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic to reproduction) based on robust evidence of reproductive toxicity, 2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl diphenyl phosphine oxide (TPO) has been comprehensively banned within the European Union (EU) under Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, effective from September 1, 2025. Compounding this challenge was the conspicuous absence of validated analytical methods. Specifically, standardized, reliable, and accessible techniques for quantifying the complex spectrum of PIs in modern gel nail polish formulations were critically lacking. This included established PIs such as the now-banned TPO and its potential substitutes, all of which were embedded within the challenging, heterogeneous matrix of these formulations. This methodological gap severely hindered effective quality control during manufacturing, robust post-market surveillance by regulators, accurate consumer exposure assessment, and the essential safety evaluation of emerging replacement PIs. Consequently, there was an immediate and pressing need to develop dedicated analytical capabilities capable of monitoring both prohibited high-risk PIs and their prospective successors within this specific product category. To address the critical absence of standardized analytical methods for PIs in cosmetics, this study developed and validated a robust high performance liquid chromatography with diode array detection (HPLC-DAD) protocol. The protocol enables the simultaneous quantification of five strategically selected PIs in gel nail polish formulations. These PIs include TPO, its structural analogues ethyl (2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl) phenylphosphinate (TPO-L), [bis(4-methylphenyl) phosphinyl] (2,4,6-trimethylphenyl) methanone (TMO), and [phenyl(2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl) phosphoryl] (2,4,6-trimethylphenyl) methanone (PB-TMBPO), as well as the α-hydroxy ketone 1-hydroxycyclohexyl phenyl ketone (HCHPK). This target panel encompasses both the currently dominant PIs and prime TPO replacement candidates. The optimized sample preparation involved efficient extraction of target analytes from the complex gel nail polish matrix using acetonitrile under ultrasonication, eliminating the need for derivatization. Chromatographic separation was achieved on a Kromasil 100-5-C18 column (150 mm×4.6 mm, 5 μm) maintained at 30 ℃. A binary mobile phase gradient (water/acetonitrile) was delivered at 1.0 mL/min, with an injection volume of 5 μL. Selective detection leveraged dual wavelengths: 243 nm optimized for HCHPK and 375 nm for the four acylphosphine oxides. Quantitation employed external calibration curves. Method validation demonstrated exceptional performance: All five PIs exhibited baseline separation from matrix interferences. Linear calibration curves spanned 2–600 mg/L with outstanding correlation coefficients (r≥0.999 9 for each analyte). Method sensitivity was confirmed with limits of detection (LODs) ranging from 3.6 to 45 μg/g and limits of quantitation (LOQs) from 15 to 141 μg/g. Accuracy, assessed through spiked recovery experiments at low, medium, and high concentration levels, yielded excellent results (91.6%–100.4%). Precision, expressed as relative standard deviation (RSD, n=6), was consistently high (0.3%–4.3%), affirming method robustness and reliability for routine analysis. Application of the validated method to 30 commercially available gel nail polish samples revealed pervasive PI presence. Total PI content ranged from 2.95% to 9.66% (mass fraction). Each batch contained 1 to 3 distinct PIs. None of these PIs were listed on the product labels. Critically, TPO, which has been banned in Europe, was present in 90% of the analyzed products at significant concentrations (1.42%–6.43%, mass fraction). HCHPK was detected in 76.7% of the samples, with levels ranging from 0.83% to 4.84% (mass fraction). TPO-L was present in 10% of the samples (6.73%–7.17%, mass fraction), while TMO was detected at 0.25% (mass fraction) in a single sample. These findings indicate the prevalent use of prohibited substances like TPO and other PIs in the current gel nail polish market. Enhanced regulation, substitution efforts, and further safety assessments are urgently required. This study delivers a simple, specific, rapid, and economically viable HPLC-DAD method specifically tailored for the challenging gel nail polish matrix. It effectively addresses the analytical gap for monitoring key PIs, particularly during the critical transition period following the EU TPO ban. The methodology provides robust technical support for quality control laboratories (both industrial and regulatory), facilitates compliance verification with evolving safety regulations, enables accurate risk assessment of consumer exposure, and empowers the development of safer gel nail polish formulations through reliable PI quantification. The alarming market data generated underscores the immediate necessity for regulatory action and industry innovation toward eliminating high-risk PIs like TPO.
, authors=Xu GONG
1, Jing SUN
1, *, Xinxin LI
1, 2, Youlong FENG
1, authorsList=Xu GONG, Jing SUN, Xinxin LI, Youlong FENG, authorCompany=null, correspAuthors=Jing SUN, authorNote=null, correspAuthorsNote=null, copyrightStatement=
This is an open access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original author and source are credited., copyrightOwner=null, extLink=null, articleAbsUrl=null, sourceXml=null, magXml=null, pdfUrl=null, pdf=null, pdfFileSize=null, pdfExtLink=null, richHtmlUrl=null, mobilePdfUrl=null, reviewReport=null, pdfFirstPage=null, abstractGraph=null, abstractGraphContent=null, abstractVideo=null, citation=null, cebUrl=null, magXmlContent=null, mapNumber=null, fund=null), CN=ArticleExt(id=1322945345164030348, articleId=1322945339090678146, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1283840372199657495, language=CN, title=高效液相色谱法测定甲油胶中2,4,6-三甲基苯甲酰基-二苯基氧化膦等5种光引发剂, columnId=1284557502792568846, journalTitle=色谱, columnName=研究论文, runingTitle=null, highlight=null, articleAbstract=
甲油胶因快速固化、色泽艳丽、持久耐用等优势成为化妆品消费热点,但其关键组分光引发剂(PIs)存在健康风险,尤其是2,4,6-三甲基苯甲酰基-二苯基氧化膦(TPO)具有生殖毒性已被欧盟全面禁用。目前,该类成分在我国尚存在监管盲区,相关分析方法也较为匮乏。本研究建立了甲油胶中5种酰基氧化膦/α-羟基酮类PIs同时定量的分析方法。样品经乙腈超声提取,采用Kromasil 100-5-C18柱(150 mm×4.6 mm,5 μm)进行高效液相色谱分离,以水-乙腈为流动相进行梯度洗脱,检测波长为243 nm和375 nm,采用标准曲线外标法定量。实验结果表明,TPO、2,4,6-三甲基苯甲酰基苯基膦酸乙酯(TPO-L)、2,4,6-三甲基苯甲酰基-二(对甲苯基)氧化膦(TMO)、双(2,4,6-三甲基苯甲酰基)苯基氧化膦(PB-TMBPO)和1-羟基环己烷苯酮(HCHPK)与甲油胶基质干扰峰分离度良好,5种PIs在2~600 mg/L范围内线性关系良好(相关系数r均≥0.999 9),方法检出限为3.6~45 μg/g,定量限为15~141 μg/g,在低、中、高3个加标水平下的回收率为91.6%~101.8%,相对标准偏差(RSD,n=6)为0.2%~4.3%。将该方法应用于网络购买的30批甲油胶样品的检测,结果所有样品均含1~3种未标识的PIs,总含量达到2.95%~9.66%(质量分数)。结果表明TPO等PIs在当前甲油胶市场上被高频使用,亟需监管、替代和进一步安全评估。该方法操作便捷,分离效率高,专属性强,能够在低成本下满足甲油胶中PIs含量测定的需求,为甲油胶产品的质量控制和安全性评估提供了技术支持。
, authors=宫旭
1, 孙晶
1, *, 李欣欣
1, 2, 冯有龙
1, authorsList=宫旭, 孙晶, 李欣欣, 冯有龙, authorCompany=null, correspAuthors=孙晶, authorNote=null, correspAuthorsNote=
, copyrightStatement=Copyright © 2025 Editorial office of Chinese Journal of Chromatography
本文是开放获取文章,遵循CC BY 4.0协议
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1, 2, address=1. Jiangsu Institute for Drug Control,Nanjing 210019,China
2. School of Pharmacy,Nanjing University of Traditional Chinese Medicine,Nanjing 210023,China, bio=null, bioImg=null, bioContent=null, aboutCorrespAuthor=null), CN=AuthorExt(id=1322947455263834848, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1283840372199657495, articleId=1322945339090678146, authorId=1322947455112839900, language=CN, stringName=李欣欣, firstName=null, middleName=null, lastName=null, prefix=null, suffix=null, authorComment=null, nameInitials=null, affiliation=null, department=null, xref=
1, 2, address=1.江苏省药品监督检验研究院,江苏 南京 210019
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Structural formulas for the five photoinitiators (PIs)HCHPK: 1-hydroxycyclohexyl phenyl ketone; TPO-L: ethyl(2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl) phenylphosphinate; TPO: 2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl diphenyl phosphine oxide; TMO: [Bis(4-methylphenyl) phosphinyl] (2,4,6-trimethylphenyl) methanone; PB-TMBPO: [phenyl(2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl) phosphoryl] (2,4,6-trimethylphenyl) methanone.
, figureFileSmall=HDWX09aIocLg4WaaMVWZYw==, figureFileBig=//ljvQaPf1dk67z5HESy1A==, tableContent=null), ArticleFig(id=1322947458824798964, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1283840372199657495, articleId=1322945339090678146, language=CN, label=图1, caption=
5种光引发剂的结构式, figureFileSmall=HDWX09aIocLg4WaaMVWZYw==, figureFileBig=//ljvQaPf1dk67z5HESy1A==, tableContent=null), ArticleFig(id=1322947458925462261, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1283840372199657495, articleId=1322945339090678146, language=EN, label=Fig. 2, caption=
Liquid chromatograms of the mixed standard solution of the five PIs and MC2 sample solution separated by different chromatographic columnsa. Kromasil 100-5-C18 (150 mm×4.6 mm, 5 μm); b. Venusil MP C18 (150 mm×4.6 mm, 5 μm); c. Diamonsil plus C18 (150 mm×4.6 mm, 5 μm); d. Poroshell 120 EC-C18 (100 mm×4.6 mm, 4 μm).
Mobile phases: A, water; B, acetonitrile. Gradient elution program: 0-2 min, 30%B; 2-5 min, 30%B-65%B; 5-9 min, 65%B; 9-11 min, 65%B-95%B; 11-13 min, 95%B; 13-13.5 min, 95%B-30%B; 13.5-17 min, 30%B. Flow rate: 1 mL/min. Column temperature: 30 ℃. Detection wavelength: 243 nm.
Peak identifications: 1. HCHPK; 2. TPO-L; 3. TPO; 4. TMO; 5. PB-TMBPO.
, figureFileSmall=h9YYo4kEirCx6iR/iW4zaQ==, figureFileBig=rg3xgoHe0hXNJH+mFQOpMg==, tableContent=null), ArticleFig(id=1322947459009348342, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1283840372199657495, articleId=1322945339090678146, language=CN, label=图2, caption=
5种光引发剂混合标准溶液和MC2样品溶液经不同色谱柱分离的液相色谱图, figureFileSmall=h9YYo4kEirCx6iR/iW4zaQ==, figureFileBig=rg3xgoHe0hXNJH+mFQOpMg==, tableContent=null), ArticleFig(id=1322947459172926199, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1283840372199657495, articleId=1322945339090678146, language=EN, label=Fig. 3, caption=
Chromatograms of five sample solutions and a reagent blank solution at the wavelengths of (a) 243 nm and (b) 375 nm; chromatograms of five spiked sample solutions and a mixed standard solution at the wavelengths of (c) 243 nm and (d) 375 nmColumn: Kromasil 100-5-C18 (150 mm×4.6 mm, 5 μm). Mobile phase: A, water; B, acetonitrile. Gradient elution program: 0-2 min, 55%B; 2-6 min, 55%B-95%B; 6-8 min, 95%B; 8-8.5 min, 95%B-55%B; 8.5-12 min, 55%B. Flow rate: 1 mL/min. Column temperature: 30 ℃.
Peak identifications: 1. HCHPK; 2. TPO-L; 3. TPO; 4. TMO; 5. PB-TMBPO.
, figureFileSmall=soGa1tYjeTMde5pafn1eVg==, figureFileBig=wCgyqRtp48+jYhnHwbD2rQ==, tableContent=null), ArticleFig(id=1322947459240035064, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1283840372199657495, articleId=1322945339090678146, language=CN, label=图3, caption=
5个样品溶液和1个试剂空白溶液的(a)243 nm和(b)375 nm检测色谱图;5个样品加标溶液和1个混合标准溶液的(c) 243 nm和(d)375 nm检测色谱图, figureFileSmall=soGa1tYjeTMde5pafn1eVg==, figureFileBig=wCgyqRtp48+jYhnHwbD2rQ==, tableContent=null), ArticleFig(id=1322947459311338233, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1283840372199657495, articleId=1322945339090678146, language=EN, label=Fig. 4, caption=
Testing results for 30 batches of gel nail polish samples, figureFileSmall=Esh+AHhqY8okYzIY8UP9UQ==, figureFileBig=4soHgCYN+hhj3WuZbyc+Gw==, tableContent=null), ArticleFig(id=1322947459378447099, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1283840372199657495, articleId=1322945339090678146, language=CN, label=图4, caption=
30批实际甲油胶样品的检测结果, figureFileSmall=Esh+AHhqY8okYzIY8UP9UQ==, figureFileBig=4soHgCYN+hhj3WuZbyc+Gw==, tableContent=null), ArticleFig(id=1322947459470721789, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1283840372199657495, articleId=1322945339090678146, language=EN, label=Table 1, caption=
Theoretical plate numbers of the five PIs in the spiked solution of sample MC2 on different chromatographic columns
, figureFileSmall=null, figureFileBig=null, tableContent=
Chromatographic column | Theoretical plate numbers |
|---|
| HCHPK | TPO-L | TPO | TMO | PB-TMBPO |
| Kromasil 100-5-C18 | 49857 | 44695 | 70928 | 184072 | 180464 |
| Venusil MP C18 | 31796 | 24940 | 21921 | 56738 | 98669 |
| Diamonsil plus C18 | 59293 | 49315 | 46112 | 96739 | 225576 |
| Poroshell 120 EC-C18 | 68618 | 65329 | 55398 | 54890 | 248039 |
), ArticleFig(id=1322947459537830654, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1283840372199657495, articleId=1322945339090678146, language=CN, label=表1, caption=
MC2样品加标溶液中5种光引发剂在不同色谱柱上的理论塔板数
, figureFileSmall=null, figureFileBig=null, tableContent=
Chromatographic column | Theoretical plate numbers |
|---|
| HCHPK | TPO-L | TPO | TMO | PB-TMBPO |
| Kromasil 100-5-C18 | 49857 | 44695 | 70928 | 184072 | 180464 |
| Venusil MP C18 | 31796 | 24940 | 21921 | 56738 | 98669 |
| Diamonsil plus C18 | 59293 | 49315 | 46112 | 96739 | 225576 |
| Poroshell 120 EC-C18 | 68618 | 65329 | 55398 | 54890 | 248039 |
), ArticleFig(id=1322947459625911039, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1283840372199657495, articleId=1322945339090678146, language=EN, label=Table 2, caption=
Linear ranges, linear equations, correlation coefficients (r), limits of detection (LODs) and limits of quantification (LOQs) of the five PIs
, figureFileSmall=null, figureFileBig=null, tableContent=
| Compound | Linear range/(mg/L) | Linear equation | r | LOD/(mg/L) | Method LOD/(μg/g) | LOQ/(mg/L) | Method LOQ/(μg/g) |
|---|
| HCHPK | 1.95-586 | y=1.39×104x-1.66×102 | 0.9999 | 0.036 | 3.6 | 0.15 | 15 |
| TPO-L | 1.96-588 | y=2.29×102x+5.52×102 | 0.9999 | 0.45 | 45 | 1.41 | 141 |
| TPO | 1.94-582 | y=4.78×102x+9.98 | 0.9999 | 0.38 | 38 | 0.87 | 87 |
| TMO | 1.96-587 | y=5.23×102x+1.92×102 | 0.9999 | 0.25 | 25 | 0.65 | 65 |
| PB-TMBPO | 1.96-588 | y=6.06×102x+1.33×102 | 0.9999 | 0.26 | 26 | 0.73 | 73 |
), ArticleFig(id=1322947459693019904, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1283840372199657495, articleId=1322945339090678146, language=CN, label=表2, caption=
5种光引发剂的线性范围、线性方程、相关系数、检出限及定量限
, figureFileSmall=null, figureFileBig=null, tableContent=
| Compound | Linear range/(mg/L) | Linear equation | r | LOD/(mg/L) | Method LOD/(μg/g) | LOQ/(mg/L) | Method LOQ/(μg/g) |
|---|
| HCHPK | 1.95-586 | y=1.39×104x-1.66×102 | 0.9999 | 0.036 | 3.6 | 0.15 | 15 |
| TPO-L | 1.96-588 | y=2.29×102x+5.52×102 | 0.9999 | 0.45 | 45 | 1.41 | 141 |
| TPO | 1.94-582 | y=4.78×102x+9.98 | 0.9999 | 0.38 | 38 | 0.87 | 87 |
| TMO | 1.96-587 | y=5.23×102x+1.92×102 | 0.9999 | 0.25 | 25 | 0.65 | 65 |
| PB-TMBPO | 1.96-588 | y=6.06×102x+1.33×102 | 0.9999 | 0.26 | 26 | 0.73 | 73 |
), ArticleFig(id=1322947459776905985, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1283840372199657495, articleId=1322945339090678146, language=EN, label=Table 3, caption=
Spiked recoveries and RSDs of the five PIs in two kinds of gel nail polish matrices (n=6)
, figureFileSmall=null, figureFileBig=null, tableContent=
| Compound | Liquid/viscous liquid | | Gel |
|---|
| Spiked/(mg/g) | Rec./ % | RSD/% | | Spiked/(mg/g) | Rec./ % | RSD/% |
|---|
| HCHPK | 0.4 | 91.6 | 0.3 | | 0.4 | 97.6 | 0.2 |
| 4 | 98.1 | 0.3 | | 4 | 98.7 | 0.6 |
| 40 | 99.0 | 0.4 | | 40 | 99.7 | 0.3 |
| TPO-L | 0.4 | 97.4 | 4.3 | | 0.4 | 99.4 | 3.3 |
| 4 | 99.5 | 2.8 | | 4 | 99.2 | 1.3 |
| 40 | 99.7 | 0.4 | | 40 | 99.6 | 0.3 |
| TPO | 6 | 100.4 | 3.1 | | 0.4 | 99.3 | 3.9 |
| 14 | 98.3 | 2.1 | | 4 | 101.8 | 2.8 |
| 30 | 100.1 | 1.3 | | 40 | 99.6 | 0.3 |
| TMO | 0.4 | 96.7 | 3.0 | | 0.4 | 99.8 | 3.1 |
| 4 | 100.4 | 1.1 | | 4 | 101.4 | 1.5 |
| 40 | 99.5 | 0.4 | | 40 | 99.4 | 0.3 |
| PB-TMBPO | 0.4 | 96.7 | 2.2 | | 0.4 | 101.2 | 1.4 |
| 4 | 99.2 | 0.4 | | 4 | 99.2 | 0.9 |
| 40 | 99.4 | 0.5 | | 40 | 98.9 | 0.3 |
), ArticleFig(id=1322947459852403458, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1283840372199657495, articleId=1322945339090678146, language=CN, label=表3, caption=
5种光引发剂在2种甲油胶基质中的加标回收率与相对标准偏差(n=6)
, figureFileSmall=null, figureFileBig=null, tableContent=
| Compound | Liquid/viscous liquid | | Gel |
|---|
| Spiked/(mg/g) | Rec./ % | RSD/% | | Spiked/(mg/g) | Rec./ % | RSD/% |
|---|
| HCHPK | 0.4 | 91.6 | 0.3 | | 0.4 | 97.6 | 0.2 |
| 4 | 98.1 | 0.3 | | 4 | 98.7 | 0.6 |
| 40 | 99.0 | 0.4 | | 40 | 99.7 | 0.3 |
| TPO-L | 0.4 | 97.4 | 4.3 | | 0.4 | 99.4 | 3.3 |
| 4 | 99.5 | 2.8 | | 4 | 99.2 | 1.3 |
| 40 | 99.7 | 0.4 | | 40 | 99.6 | 0.3 |
| TPO | 6 | 100.4 | 3.1 | | 0.4 | 99.3 | 3.9 |
| 14 | 98.3 | 2.1 | | 4 | 101.8 | 2.8 |
| 30 | 100.1 | 1.3 | | 40 | 99.6 | 0.3 |
| TMO | 0.4 | 96.7 | 3.0 | | 0.4 | 99.8 | 3.1 |
| 4 | 100.4 | 1.1 | | 4 | 101.4 | 1.5 |
| 40 | 99.5 | 0.4 | | 40 | 99.4 | 0.3 |
| PB-TMBPO | 0.4 | 96.7 | 2.2 | | 0.4 | 101.2 | 1.4 |
| 4 | 99.2 | 0.4 | | 4 | 99.2 | 0.9 |
| 40 | 99.4 | 0.5 | | 40 | 98.9 | 0.3 |
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