Article(id=1148682690032885801, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1146031712061968385, issueId=1148682683779182790, articleNumber=null, orderNo=null, doi=10.12211/2096-8280.2024-058, pmid=null, cstr=null, oa=null, hot=null, price=null, onlineType=0, articleFormat=0, articleType=null, articleTypeStr=null, receivedDate=1722355200000, receivedDateStr=2024-07-31, revisedDate=1729872000000, revisedDateStr=2024-10-26, acceptedDate=null, acceptedDateStr=null, onlineDate=1751796894795, onlineDateStr=2025-07-06, pubDate=1745942400000, pubDateStr=2025-04-30, doiRegisterDate=null, doiRegisterDateStr=null, onlineIssueDate=1751796894795, onlineIssueDateStr=2025-07-06, onlineJustAcceptDate=null, onlineJustAcceptDateStr=null, onlineFirstDate=null, onlineFirstDateStr=null, sourceXml=null, magXml=null, createTime=1751796894795, creator=13701087609, updateTime=1751796894795, updator=13701087609, issue=Issue{id=1148682683779182790, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1146031712061968385, year='2025', volume='6', issue='2', pageStart='229', pageEnd='491', issueExtLink='null', onlineDate='null', pubDate='null', beforeIssueId=null, nextIssueId=null, price=null, status=1, issueComplete=1, articleOrder=1, issueType=1, specialIssue=null, createTime=1751796893293, creator=13701087609, updateTime=1757495676060, updator=13701087609, preIssue=null, nextIssue=null, ext={EN=IssueExt(id=1172585111162864525, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1146031712061968385, issueId=1148682683779182790, language=EN, specialIssueTitle=, coverIllustrator=null, specialIssueEditor=, specialIssueAbout=), CN=IssueExt(id=1172585111162864526, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1146031712061968385, issueId=1148682683779182790, language=CN, specialIssueTitle=, coverIllustrator=null, specialIssueEditor=, specialIssueAbout=)}, issueFiles=null}, startPage=373, endPage=390, ext={EN=ArticleExt(id=1149896684735132641, articleId=1148682690032885801, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1146031712061968385, language=EN, title=Biosynthesis of flavonoids and their applications in cosmetics, columnId=1149894683619635652, journalTitle=Synthetic Biology Journal, columnName=Invited Review, runingTitle=null, highlight=, articleAbstract=

Flavonoids are natural ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, mainly for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, but they also present a variety of other biological activities such as antimicrobial, whitening, and anti-ultraviolet. Therefore, flavonoids have a huge application potential waiting to be explored. In this review, firstly, the numerous biological properties of flavonoids used in cosmetics, as well as examples of their applications in cosmetics are presented, with their biosynthetic pathways addressed. Then, recent advances in biosynthesis of typical flavonoids (e.g., phloretin, naringenin, apigenin, luteolin, chrysin, rutin, and anthocyanins) are reviewed and discussed, with a focus on the novel synthetic biology and metabolic engineering strategies to improve the productivity and yield of biosynthesized flavonoids, including the enhancement of precursor supply, characterization and modification of key enzymes, regulation of gene expression, and optimization of fermentation processes. With the continuous innovation of synthetic biology technology, there has been an increase in the efficiency of flavonoid biosynthesis and a significant reduction in production cost, which contributes substantially to the widespread use of flavonoids in cosmetics. However, the prevalence of poor solubility and low stability of flavonoids limits their applications in cosmetics. To address this issue, we outline the research process of two main strategies: nanocarrier technology and moiety modification. The application of these research results opens up new possibilities for the use of flavonoids in cosmetics. At the end, we discuss two major challenges in high-yield synthesis of complex flavonoids: the difficulty of key enzyme modification and the imbalance of metabolic flux. We also look forward to AI-assisted synthetic biology to address these challenges and drive the yield improvement and industrialization of flavonoid biosynthesis, providing biotechnological power for the development and innovation of the cosmetics industry.

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黄酮类化合物是一类广泛存在于自然界中的多酚类化合物,因其显著的抗氧化、抗炎、抗菌等生物活性在化妆品中广泛应用。然而,传统植物提取方法的局限性促使研究人员转向合成生物学以寻求更高效的生产途径。本文根据美白抗氧化、抗菌消炎、防晒抗衰老和增色增彩四个功能分类分别列举了几种常见黄酮类化合物在化妆品中的应用;介绍了黄酮类化合物的现有生物合成途径并总结了典型黄酮类化合物的最新研究进展;详细讨论了合成生物学及代谢工程策略。接着,针对黄酮类化合物在化妆品应用中的水溶性差和稳定性低的问题,总结了相应解决方案的研究进程。最后,总结并展望了人工智能辅助合成生物学的策略以应对黄酮类化合物合成过程中的挑战。同时,本文强调了黄酮类化合物的安全性和有效性评估的重要性,以推动其在化妆品行业的应用。

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申晓林(1984—),女,博士,教授。研究方向为代谢工程及合成生物学。E-mail:
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韦灵珍(2001—),女,硕士研究生。研究方向为代谢工程及合成生物学。E-mail:

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Pharmacology & Therapeutics, 2021, 224: 107827., articleTitle=Metabolomics, metabolic flux analysis and cancer pharmacology, refAbstract=null)], funds=[Fund(id=1172584629346382351, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1146031712061968385, articleId=1148682690032885801, awardId=22078011, language=CN, fundingSource=国家自然科学基金(22078011), fundOrder=null, country=null)], companyList=[AuthorCompany(id=1172584626087408095, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1146031712061968385, articleId=1148682690032885801, xref=null, ext=[AuthorCompanyExt(id=1172584626095796704, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1146031712061968385, articleId=1148682690032885801, companyId=1172584626087408095, language=EN, country=null, province=null, city=null, postcode=null, companyName=null, departmentName=null, remark=State Key Laboratory of Chemical Resource Engineering,Beijing University of Chemical Technology,Beijing 100029,China), AuthorCompanyExt(id=1172584626104185313, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1146031712061968385, articleId=1148682690032885801, companyId=1172584626087408095, language=CN, country=null, province=null, city=null, postcode=null, companyName=null, departmentName=null, remark=北京化工大学化工资源有效利用全国重点实验室,北京 100029)])], figs=[ArticleFig(id=1172584628272640517, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1146031712061968385, articleId=1148682690032885801, language=EN, label=Fig. 1, caption=Natural synthesis pathways of flavonoids

(PAL—Phenylalaninammo-nialyase; C4H—Cinnamic acid-4-hydroxylase; TA—Tyrosine ammonialyase; 4CL—4-Coumarate coenzyme A ligase; CH—Chalcone synthase; CHR—Chalcone reductase; CHI—Chalcone isomerase; FNS—Flavone synthase; F3′H—Flavanone 3′-β-hydroxyalse; F3H—Flavanone 3-β-hydroxyalse; F3′5′H—Flavanone 3′,5′-β-hydroxyalse; FLS—Flavonol synthase; UGT—UDP-glycosyltransferase; RhaT—Rhamnose transferase; DFR—Dihydroflavonol 4-reductase; ANS—Anthocyanidin synthase; UF3GT—Flavonoid 3-O-glycosyltransferase; C3G—Cyanidin 3-O-glucoside chloride; P3G—Pelargonidin3-O-glucoside; D3G—Delphinidin-3-O-glucoside)

, figureFileSmall=jHnsHIh1DC5mWihdcoc3TA==, figureFileBig=rl5vd0ckzDz/Ve6zkygNAw==, tableContent=null), ArticleFig(id=1172584628360720902, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1146031712061968385, articleId=1148682690032885801, language=CN, label=图1, caption=黄酮类化合物的天然合成途径

(PAL—苯丙氨酸解氨酶;C4H—肉桂酸4-羟化酶;TAL—酪氨酸解氨酶;4CL—4-香豆酸辅酶A连接酶;CHS—查尔酮合酶;CHR—查尔酮还原酶;CHI—查尔酮异构酶;FNS—黄酮合酶;F3′H—黄烷酮-3′-羟化酶;F3H—黄烷酮-3-羟化酶;F3′5′H—黄烷酮-3′,5′-羟化酶;FLS—黄酮醇合酶;UGT—UDP-葡萄糖基转移酶;RhaT—鼠李糖转移酶;DFR—二氢黄酮醇4-还原酶;ANS—花青素合酶;UF3GT—黄酮类化合物3-O-葡萄糖基转移酶;C3G—矢车菊素3-O-葡萄糖苷;P3G—天竺葵素-3-O-葡萄糖苷;D3G—飞燕草素-3-O-葡萄糖苷)

, figureFileSmall=jHnsHIh1DC5mWihdcoc3TA==, figureFileBig=rl5vd0ckzDz/Ve6zkygNAw==, tableContent=null), ArticleFig(id=1172584628507521543, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1146031712061968385, articleId=1148682690032885801, language=EN, label=Fig. 2, caption=Synthetic pathway for phloretin

(4CL—4-Coumarate coenzyme A ligase; DBR—Double-bond reductase; CHS—Chalcone synthase; ERED—Enoate reductase)

, figureFileSmall=yIEMgwfOAS+BdQZYC9alew==, figureFileBig=3lSgKXN8uqD7AD/2wSS6wA==, tableContent=null), ArticleFig(id=1172584628570436104, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1146031712061968385, articleId=1148682690032885801, language=CN, label=图2, caption=根皮素的合成途径

(4CL—4-香豆酸辅酶A连接酶;DBR—NADPH依赖型双键还原酶;CHS—查尔酮合酶;ERED—烯酸还原酶)

, figureFileSmall=yIEMgwfOAS+BdQZYC9alew==, figureFileBig=3lSgKXN8uqD7AD/2wSS6wA==, tableContent=null), ArticleFig(id=1172584628650127881, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1146031712061968385, articleId=1148682690032885801, language=EN, label=Fig. 3, caption=Structural formula of rutin, figureFileSmall=lxnKjVjXjPdk9+F+iLfbKQ==, figureFileBig=5zr2+eLdFxjZ8/coPYzkGA==, tableContent=null), ArticleFig(id=1172584628742402570, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1146031712061968385, articleId=1148682690032885801, language=CN, label=图3, caption=芦丁的结构式, figureFileSmall=lxnKjVjXjPdk9+F+iLfbKQ==, figureFileBig=5zr2+eLdFxjZ8/coPYzkGA==, tableContent=null), ArticleFig(id=1172584628813705739, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1146031712061968385, articleId=1148682690032885801, language=EN, label=Fig. 4, caption=Correlation of the color of anthocyanins with the pH value, figureFileSmall=LKlVqlaU9p+QfIS29bXMYw==, figureFileBig=qfe0l7v+Z7zEW2/ztaoWRg==, tableContent=null), ArticleFig(id=1172584628893397516, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1146031712061968385, articleId=1148682690032885801, language=CN, label=图4, caption=花青素颜色与pH的关联, figureFileSmall=LKlVqlaU9p+QfIS29bXMYw==, figureFileBig=qfe0l7v+Z7zEW2/ztaoWRg==, tableContent=null), ArticleFig(id=1172584629010838029, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1146031712061968385, articleId=1148682690032885801, language=EN, label=Table 1, caption=

Advances in the biosynthesis of typical natural flavonoids

, figureFileSmall=null, figureFileBig=null, tableContent=
黄酮类化合物 底物 菌株 生产规模 产量 参考文献
根皮素 对羟基苯丙酸 酿酒酵母 摇瓶 83.2 mg/L [16]
根皮素 对羟基苯丙酸 酿酒酵母 5 L发酵罐 619.5 mg/L [16]
柚皮素 甘油 大肠杆菌 摇瓶 98.71 mg/L [17]
柚皮素 葡萄糖 酿酒酵母 5 L发酵罐 2.5 g/L [18]
柚皮素 葡萄糖 酿酒酵母 摇瓶 986.2 mg/L [19]
柚皮素 葡萄糖 酿酒酵母 5 L发酵罐 3.4 g/L [19]
柚皮素 葡萄糖和木糖 解脂耶氏酵母 摇瓶 715.3 mg/L [20]
柚皮素 葡萄糖 解脂耶氏酵母 5 L发酵罐 8.3 g/L [21]
圣草酚 葡萄糖 解脂耶氏酵母 5 L发酵罐 6.8 g/L [22]
柚皮素 4-香豆酸 含油丝状真菌毛霉菌 摇瓶 2.2 mg/L [23]
柚皮素 4-香豆酸 丝状真菌红青霉菌 摇瓶 0.88 mmol/L [24]
柚皮素 葡萄糖 原核细菌链霉菌 摇瓶 184 mg/L [25]
柚皮素 葡萄糖 大肠杆菌 摇瓶 523.7 mg/L [26]
芹菜素 葡萄糖 解脂耶氏酵母和大肠杆菌 摇瓶 168 mg/L [27]
白杨素 葡萄糖 酿酒酵母 摇瓶 41.9 mg/L [28]
山柰酚 葡萄糖 酿酒酵母 摇瓶 86 mg/L [29]
槲皮素 葡萄糖 白链霉菌 摇瓶 0.1 mg/L [30]
山柰酚 葡萄糖 酿酒酵母 摇瓶 26.57 mg/L [31]
槲皮素 葡萄糖 酿酒酵母 摇瓶 20.38 mg/L [31]
山柰酚 葡萄糖 酿酒酵母 5 L发酵罐 956 mg/L [32]
槲皮素 葡萄糖 酿酒酵母 5 L发酵罐 930 mg/L [32]
芦丁 槲皮素 大肠杆菌 摇瓶 119.8 mg/L [33]
矢车菊素3-O-葡萄糖苷 儿茶酚和葡萄糖 大肠杆菌 摇瓶 439 mg/L [34]
天竺葵素 葡萄糖 酿酒酵母 摇瓶 33 mg/L [35]
矢车菊素3-O-葡萄糖苷 葡萄糖 酿酒酵母 摇瓶 8.0 mg/L [36]
飞燕草素3-O-葡萄糖苷 葡萄糖 酿酒酵母 摇瓶 3.5 mg/L [36]
矢车菊素 葡萄糖 酿酒酵母 摇瓶 3.0 mg/L [36]
飞燕草素 葡萄糖 酿酒酵母 摇瓶 0.7 mg/L [36]
), ArticleFig(id=1172584629107307022, tenantId=1146029695717560320, journalId=1146031712061968385, articleId=1148682690032885801, language=CN, label=表1, caption=

代表性天然黄酮类化合物的生物合成进展

, figureFileSmall=null, figureFileBig=null, tableContent=
黄酮类化合物 底物 菌株 生产规模 产量 参考文献
根皮素 对羟基苯丙酸 酿酒酵母 摇瓶 83.2 mg/L [16]
根皮素 对羟基苯丙酸 酿酒酵母 5 L发酵罐 619.5 mg/L [16]
柚皮素 甘油 大肠杆菌 摇瓶 98.71 mg/L [17]
柚皮素 葡萄糖 酿酒酵母 5 L发酵罐 2.5 g/L [18]
柚皮素 葡萄糖 酿酒酵母 摇瓶 986.2 mg/L [19]
柚皮素 葡萄糖 酿酒酵母 5 L发酵罐 3.4 g/L [19]
柚皮素 葡萄糖和木糖 解脂耶氏酵母 摇瓶 715.3 mg/L [20]
柚皮素 葡萄糖 解脂耶氏酵母 5 L发酵罐 8.3 g/L [21]
圣草酚 葡萄糖 解脂耶氏酵母 5 L发酵罐 6.8 g/L [22]
柚皮素 4-香豆酸 含油丝状真菌毛霉菌 摇瓶 2.2 mg/L [23]
柚皮素 4-香豆酸 丝状真菌红青霉菌 摇瓶 0.88 mmol/L [24]
柚皮素 葡萄糖 原核细菌链霉菌 摇瓶 184 mg/L [25]
柚皮素 葡萄糖 大肠杆菌 摇瓶 523.7 mg/L [26]
芹菜素 葡萄糖 解脂耶氏酵母和大肠杆菌 摇瓶 168 mg/L [27]
白杨素 葡萄糖 酿酒酵母 摇瓶 41.9 mg/L [28]
山柰酚 葡萄糖 酿酒酵母 摇瓶 86 mg/L [29]
槲皮素 葡萄糖 白链霉菌 摇瓶 0.1 mg/L [30]
山柰酚 葡萄糖 酿酒酵母 摇瓶 26.57 mg/L [31]
槲皮素 葡萄糖 酿酒酵母 摇瓶 20.38 mg/L [31]
山柰酚 葡萄糖 酿酒酵母 5 L发酵罐 956 mg/L [32]
槲皮素 葡萄糖 酿酒酵母 5 L发酵罐 930 mg/L [32]
芦丁 槲皮素 大肠杆菌 摇瓶 119.8 mg/L [33]
矢车菊素3-O-葡萄糖苷 儿茶酚和葡萄糖 大肠杆菌 摇瓶 439 mg/L [34]
天竺葵素 葡萄糖 酿酒酵母 摇瓶 33 mg/L [35]
矢车菊素3-O-葡萄糖苷 葡萄糖 酿酒酵母 摇瓶 8.0 mg/L [36]
飞燕草素3-O-葡萄糖苷 葡萄糖 酿酒酵母 摇瓶 3.5 mg/L [36]
矢车菊素 葡萄糖 酿酒酵母 摇瓶 3.0 mg/L [36]
飞燕草素 葡萄糖 酿酒酵母 摇瓶 0.7 mg/L [36]
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黄酮类化合物生物合成及其在化妆品中应用的研究
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韦灵珍 , 王佳 , 孙新晓 , 袁其朋 , 申晓林
合成生物学 | 特约评述 2025,6(2): 373-390
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合成生物学 | 特约评述 2025, 6(2): 373-390
黄酮类化合物生物合成及其在化妆品中应用的研究
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韦灵珍, 王佳, 孙新晓, 袁其朋, 申晓林
作者信息
  • 北京化工大学化工资源有效利用全国重点实验室,北京 100029
  • 韦灵珍(2001—),女,硕士研究生。研究方向为代谢工程及合成生物学。E-mail:

通讯作者:

申晓林(1984—),女,博士,教授。研究方向为代谢工程及合成生物学。E-mail:
Biosynthesis of flavonoids and their applications in cosmetics
Lingzhen WEI, Jia WANG, Xinxiao SUN, Qipeng YUAN, Xiaolin SHEN
Affiliations
  • State Key Laboratory of Chemical Resource Engineering,Beijing University of Chemical Technology,Beijing 100029,China
出版时间: 2025-04-30 doi: 10.12211/2096-8280.2024-058
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黄酮类化合物是一类广泛存在于自然界中的多酚类化合物,因其显著的抗氧化、抗炎、抗菌等生物活性在化妆品中广泛应用。然而,传统植物提取方法的局限性促使研究人员转向合成生物学以寻求更高效的生产途径。本文根据美白抗氧化、抗菌消炎、防晒抗衰老和增色增彩四个功能分类分别列举了几种常见黄酮类化合物在化妆品中的应用;介绍了黄酮类化合物的现有生物合成途径并总结了典型黄酮类化合物的最新研究进展;详细讨论了合成生物学及代谢工程策略。接着,针对黄酮类化合物在化妆品应用中的水溶性差和稳定性低的问题,总结了相应解决方案的研究进程。最后,总结并展望了人工智能辅助合成生物学的策略以应对黄酮类化合物合成过程中的挑战。同时,本文强调了黄酮类化合物的安全性和有效性评估的重要性,以推动其在化妆品行业的应用。

黄酮类化合物  /  天然产物  /  生物合成  /  合成生物学  /  化妆品

Flavonoids are natural ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, mainly for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, but they also present a variety of other biological activities such as antimicrobial, whitening, and anti-ultraviolet. Therefore, flavonoids have a huge application potential waiting to be explored. In this review, firstly, the numerous biological properties of flavonoids used in cosmetics, as well as examples of their applications in cosmetics are presented, with their biosynthetic pathways addressed. Then, recent advances in biosynthesis of typical flavonoids (e.g., phloretin, naringenin, apigenin, luteolin, chrysin, rutin, and anthocyanins) are reviewed and discussed, with a focus on the novel synthetic biology and metabolic engineering strategies to improve the productivity and yield of biosynthesized flavonoids, including the enhancement of precursor supply, characterization and modification of key enzymes, regulation of gene expression, and optimization of fermentation processes. With the continuous innovation of synthetic biology technology, there has been an increase in the efficiency of flavonoid biosynthesis and a significant reduction in production cost, which contributes substantially to the widespread use of flavonoids in cosmetics. However, the prevalence of poor solubility and low stability of flavonoids limits their applications in cosmetics. To address this issue, we outline the research process of two main strategies: nanocarrier technology and moiety modification. The application of these research results opens up new possibilities for the use of flavonoids in cosmetics. At the end, we discuss two major challenges in high-yield synthesis of complex flavonoids: the difficulty of key enzyme modification and the imbalance of metabolic flux. We also look forward to AI-assisted synthetic biology to address these challenges and drive the yield improvement and industrialization of flavonoid biosynthesis, providing biotechnological power for the development and innovation of the cosmetics industry.

flavonoids  /  natural products  /  biosynthesis  /  synthetic biology  /  cosmetics
韦灵珍, 王佳, 孙新晓, 袁其朋, 申晓林. 黄酮类化合物生物合成及其在化妆品中应用的研究. 合成生物学, 2025 , 6 (2) : 373 -390 . DOI: 10.12211/2096-8280.2024-058
Lingzhen WEI, Jia WANG, Xinxiao SUN, Qipeng YUAN, Xiaolin SHEN. Biosynthesis of flavonoids and their applications in cosmetics[J]. Synthetic Biology Journal, 2025 , 6 (2) : 373 -390 . DOI: 10.12211/2096-8280.2024-058
21世纪以来,随着中国人均可支配收入的不断提高,国民护肤意识不断增强,中国化妆品市场正迅速扩大。据预测,到2050年,中国化妆品市场规模将达到4500亿美元,成为全球第一大化妆品消费市场1。近些年来,以含有天然产物成分为亮点的化妆品层出不穷,这些天然产物兼具抗衰老、抗氧化、防晒美白、消炎抗菌等多种功能,其作为有效成分在化妆品中应用比例连年增长2。在这些天然产物中,黄酮类化合物因具有超强的抗氧化能力、抗炎及抗菌等多种良好的生物活性,近年来被广泛关注,并作为新型有效成分应用于化妆品的开发中3。黄酮类化合物上丰富的酚羟基赋予其美白抗氧化能力,且其抗氧化能力与酚羟基的数量及排列方式有关4。有研究报道,槲皮素(quercetin)、儿茶素(catechin)、染料木黄酮(genistein)、芹菜素(apigenin)等黄酮类化合物能够抑制不同促炎介质或炎症相关酶的表达与合成,从而达到调节炎症反应的效果5。另外,黄酮类化合物还兼具了紫外线(ultraviolet-B, UVB)吸收的能力,能抵御紫外线对细胞造成的损伤6。花青素类因其色彩丰富鲜艳,常作天然增色剂用于化妆品中7。因此,可将黄酮类化合物在化妆品中发挥的功能分为四类:美白抗氧化、抗菌消炎、防晒抗衰老和增色增彩。
目前,工业上通常采用植物提取的方法来获取黄酮类化合物,然而这些方法在扩大生产规模、降低生产成本等方面面临众多挑战。植物提取法生产黄酮类化合物的产量和成本受原料价格、提取方法、纯化技术等多重因素的影响8。例如,通过超声辅助萃取法与不同萃取溶剂(正己烷、二氯甲烷、甲醇和乙醇)组合分别提取不同地区的胡卢芦巴中黄酮类化合物[牡荆素(vitexin)、柚皮素(naringenin)、槲皮素等]的产率极低,不足2%9。此外,植物中黄酮类化合物的含量还与土壤质量、栽培方法和气候环境等条件有关,因此,其产量有着不可预测和波动大的缺点。相较之下,利用合成生物学的方法生产高附加值的黄酮类化合物则更具吸引力,例如原料低廉可再生、生产周期短、能源需求低和易于大规模生产等优点10。一些微生物,如大肠杆菌、酿酒酵母等生长快速,且其遗传特征和代谢通路等信息已被详细研究,可作为合成黄酮类化合物的宿主。随着酶工程、基因工程和代谢工程等生物科学的发展,多种策略被开发出来用于提高生物合成黄酮类化合物产量,包括黄酮类化合物合成途径中关键酶的挖掘、合成途径的优化、发酵工艺的和培养技术的优化11
黄酮类化合物通常具有统一的基本结构,为2-苯基色原酮:C6-C3-C6(依次命名为A环、C环和B环),该骨架由3-碳杂环连接两个6-碳苯环组成。根据苯环的位置以及3-碳杂环的氧化程度,可以将黄酮类化合物分成七个亚类:黄酮类、黄烷酮类、黄酮醇类、黄烷醇类、异黄酮类、查尔酮类和花青素类12
在植物中,黄酮类化合物由丙二酰辅酶A(malonyl coenzyme A)(产自乙酸-丙二酸途径)和L-苯丙氨酸(L-phenylalanine)或L-酪氨酸(L-tyrosine)(产自莽草酸途径)经过苯丙烷途径合成13。苯丙烷途径前三个步骤被统称为一般苯丙烷途径,为黄酮类化合物的合成提供重要前体——4-香豆酰辅酶A(4-coumaryl coenzyme A)14。一般苯丙烷途径依次包括苯丙氨酸解氨酶(phenylalaninammo-nialyase, PAL)催化L-苯丙氨酸生成反式肉桂酸(trans-cinnamic acid),然后肉桂酸4-羟化酶(cinnamic acid-4-hydroxylase, C4H)氧化反式肉桂酸生成4-香豆酸(4-coumaric acid),最终4-香豆酸辅酶A连接酶(4-coumarate coenzyme A ligase, 4CL)催化4-香豆酸生成4-香豆酰辅酶A(图1)。而L-酪氨酸转化为4-香豆酰辅酶A仅需要酪氨酸解氨酶(tyrosine ammonialyase, TAL)和4CL两个酶,途径较L-苯丙氨酸转化为4-香豆酰辅酶A的更短11。随后,在查尔酮合酶(chalcone synthase,CHS)的催化下,1分子4-香豆酰辅酶A和3分子丙二酰辅酶A缩合成柚皮素查尔酮(naringenin chalcone),形成黄酮类化合物的基本骨架。然后,柚皮素查尔酮可以自发或者在查尔酮异构酶(chalcone isomerase,CHI)催化下合环生成黄烷酮柚皮素1315。这些黄酮类化合物进一步可在甲基转移酶、糖基转移酶、酰基转移酶等修饰作用下衍生成相应的各种黄酮类化合物。
本综述首先探讨了黄酮类化合物在化妆品中的多样化功能,依据美白抗氧化、抗菌消炎、防晒抗衰老以及增色增彩的特性,详细分析了各类具有代表性的黄酮类化合物的生物活性、作用机理和在化妆品中的应用。同时,系统地归纳了各类黄酮类化合物的天然合成途径,并回顾了近期在生物转化和从头合成黄酮类化合物方面的研究进展(表1)。其次,文章深入讨论了黄酮类化合物在化妆品应用中遭遇的挑战,并概述了通过纳米载体技术、水凝胶载药体系和基团修饰等策略来提升黄酮类化合物水溶性的研究进程。最后,总结并展望了黄酮类化合物的高效生物合成所遇到的两大主要难题:关键酶工程改造困难和代谢通量不平衡,并提出了通过人工智能、代谢组学及代谢通量分析等技术辅助提升黄酮类化合物生物合成产量的方案与思路。
黄酮类化合物多羟基的结构特征赋予它十分强大的抗氧化能力,主要通过直接清除活性氧(reactive oxygen species, ROS)、增强抗氧化酶活性和抑制氧化酶功能来实现。ROS是正常细胞运行过程中产生的有害副产物,过度积累会加速皮肤老化37-38。根皮素(phloretin)是一种二氢查尔酮类黄酮类化合物,能有效清除多种自由基,其抗氧化能力具有浓度依赖性,因此,在美白抗氧化类化妆品中展现出重要应用价值39。有研究表明,根皮素能够降低细胞内ROS水平,并激活超氧化物歧化酶(superoxide dismutase, SOD)、谷胱甘肽过氧化物酶-1(glutathione peroxidase, Gpx-1)和过氧化氢酶(catalase, CAT),减轻氧化损伤40-41。研究还发现,根皮素通过上调单磷酸腺苷活化蛋白激酶[adenosine 5′-monophosphate (AMP)-activated protein kinase, AMPK]活性进而激活核转录因子-红系相关因子2(nuclear factor-erythroid 2-related factor 2, Nrf2)信号通路,从而协调细胞代谢,增强细胞抗氧化能力40-43
根皮素可通过抑制氧化酶如酪氨酸酶活性,减少黑色素生成,有助于皮肤美白和改善肤色沉着44。Chen等45揭示了根皮素抑制酪氨酸酶的机理:在低浓度下,根皮素充当酪氨酸酶的底物,而在高浓度下则转变为抑制剂,与酶-底物结合,诱导酶发生构象变化,从而抑制黑色素的形成。在实际应用中,根皮素常与维生素C(vitamin C)、烟酰胺(nicotinamide)和阿魏酸(ferulic acid)等成分共用,以增强化妆品抗氧化和美白效果46-48。因此,黄酮类化合物可作为新型抗氧化剂添加到化妆品配方中,发挥抗氧化和皮肤美白的功能。
根皮素的生物合成包括下述关键步骤(图2): 4-香豆酰辅酶A先在NADPH依赖型双键还原酶(double-bond reductases, DBR)的作用下被还原成4-二氢香豆酰辅酶A(4-dihydrocoumaroyl coenzyme A),进一步,4-二氢香豆酰辅酶A在CHS的催化下与3分子丙二酰辅酶A缩合产生根皮素49-50。根皮素主要以根皮苷(phloretin 2′-O-glucoside)形式存在于苹果中,可通过在枯草芽孢杆菌(Bacillus subtilis)中异源表达葡萄糖耐受性β-葡萄糖苷酶水解得到51-54。然而,由于前体糖苷化合物的供应受季节变化影响,此法难以实现大规模工业化生产。因而需发掘更加高效且可持续的生物合成根皮素的方法。Gall等55在一种肠道厌氧菌Eubacterium ramulus中鉴定出烯酸还原酶(Eubacterium ramulus enoate reductase, ERED),通过工程优化策略,提高了氧敏感性ERED在有氧条件下的催化效率,实现了柚皮素查尔酮到根皮素的转化,产量虽仅有50 μmol/L,但证明了从黄烷酮生成二氢查尔酮代谢途径的可行性。在此基础上,Braune等56进一步将ERED表征为黄烷酮和黄酮醇裂解还原酶(flavanone- and flavanonol-cleaving reductase, Fcr),一种NADPH依赖的立体特异性酶,它能够催化特定的黄烷酮和黄酮醇的C环裂解,形成对应的二氢查尔酮,为根皮素的生物合成提供了新的途径。另外,CHS作为根皮素合成途径中的关键限速酶,通过筛选、理性设计和突变改造可提升其特异性合成根皮素的性能。Liu等57基于MdCHS3与底物的相互作用识别了关键的活性位点残基,并设计了一系列点突变,旨在优化酶对底物的亲和力和催化特异性。通过实验验证,发现了S63R、T197A和V261A三个突变体可显著提升MdCHS3催化对羟基苯丙酸[3-(4-hydroxyphenyl)propionic acid]生成根皮素的能力,特别是V261A突变,它将根皮素产量提高了约350%。但对CHS进行突变改造并不能避免副产物二氢-双去甲基-洋高宁(dihydro-bisnoryangonin, 2H-BNY)产生。为了减少2H-BNY的产生,Jiang等16从来自不同物种的14种CH中筛选到了催化合成根皮素效率最高的来自灯盏花的ErbCHS。研究人员结合从内外源途径增加丙二酸-CoA的供应的策略,将发酵过程中的副产物2H-BNY的比例从33%降低到了17%,根皮素产量从48 mg/L提高到了83.2 mg/L。随后,研究者又通过优化补料分批发酵工艺,在5 L发酵罐中,添加对羟基苯丙酸产根皮素的产量达到619.5 mg/L,是目前报道生物合成根皮素的最高产量,推进了利用生物合成工业化生产根皮素的进程(表1)。
细菌感染和面部炎症可能会引起面部泛红瘙痒、皮肤屏障受损和色素沉着等问题,若不及时干预治疗,将严重影响人们的生活品质58。黄酮类化合物具有抗炎和抗菌特性,且无细胞毒性,兼顾了消费者对护肤品安全性与有效性的需求,在化妆品领域表现出了优良的应用潜力59。研究证明,黄酮类化合物能抑制多种细菌的生长。例如,柚皮素表现出了广谱抗菌性,可不同程度地抑制链球菌、金黄色葡萄球菌、白色念球菌和黑曲霉等的生长60。同样地,根皮素及其糖基衍生物对革兰氏阳性菌,尤其是金黄色葡萄球菌,显示出较高抗菌活性,可通过抑制毒力因子、辅助基因调控(auxiliary gene regulation, Agr)群体感应系统和细胞分泌系统来抑制细菌生长61-63
在消炎方面,柚皮素能够抑制多种炎症介质(NF-κB、环氧合酶-2等)和促炎细胞因子(TNF-α、IFN-γ、IL-1β、IL-4等)的表达,具有抗炎和抗过敏效果6064。它还能通过降低NADPH氧化酶亚基(gp91phox)的mRNA表达、清除自由基及增加氧化还原电位来减少辐射诱导的DNA损伤和细胞凋亡,从而减轻皮肤炎症和衰老等65-67。木樨草素(luteolin)也能通过抑制NF-κB信号通路来减弱由脂多糖(lipopolysaccharide, LPS)引起的炎症反应68。同样地,芹菜素可以选择性地下调免疫球蛋白IgE(介导速发型超敏反应的介质之一)的表达,抑制炎症和过敏反应的发生69。因此,黄酮类化合物可作为化妆品中的修复和抗炎成分。
根据最新的研究进展,研究人员在生物合成具有抗菌消炎功能黄酮类化合物方面取得了诸多成果,加快了稳定快速获得柚皮素、木樨草素、芹菜素等化妆品原料的进程。为了提高生物合成柚皮素的产量,研究人员采用了各种代谢工程策略,例如理性设计关键酶、优化通路基因、增加前体供应、增强启动子和优化密码子等。例如,Hwang等17基于CHS的晶体结构进行分析并构建了突变库,随后使用基于荧光的高通量筛选系统筛选出了最佳突变体CHSopt-FRU3,其合成柚皮素的催化效率较野生型提高了62%,从甘油中合成柚皮素产量为98.71 mg/L。表明了酶工程和高通量筛选策略可以显著提高微生物工厂生产黄酮类化合物的效率。Tong等18采用含转录调节因子TtgR的生物传感器与随机饱和突变相结合的策略,选用酿酒酵母为底盘细胞,实现在5 L发酵罐从头合成柚皮素,产量达2.5 g/L。Li等19通过多途径协同、调节细胞器碳转运系统和使用融合蛋白策略与基因工程技术等综合策略,增加了生物合成体系中前体(芳香族氨基酸和丙二酰辅酶A)供应量,提高了细胞质中丙二酰辅酶A的可用性以及将C4H和4CL融合连接,通过空间微区域化代谢物,减少中间产物的扩散损失,促使底物向柚皮素的转化,在酿酒酵母中实现了高效从头合成柚皮素,产量达到3.4 g/L。该研究为充分利用细胞内碳源来合成天然产物提供了新的思路。近年来,解脂耶氏酵母(Yarrowia lipolytica)因能够积累高水平的丙二酰辅酶A,可作为合成黄酮类化合物的良好宿主,而备受关注70。Wei等20在解脂耶氏酵母中开发了一种木糖诱导型表达系统,并创新性地将组成型和诱导合成型策略相结合,使得发酵过程的不同阶段均能高效合成,从而使柚皮素产量提高到了715.3 mg/L。Liu等21利用解脂耶氏酵母中逆转录转座子和核糖体DNA的长末端重复序列的多样性,结合Cre-LoxP系统开发了YaliCMulti和YaliHMulti工具,实现了在解脂耶氏酵母中基因的高效多拷贝整合,显著提高了代谢工程的效率和产物产量。最终,在5 L发酵罐中通过补料分批发酵实现了麦角硫因和柚皮素的高水平生产,其中,柚皮素产量达到了8.3 g/L,刷新了生物合成柚皮素的最高产量纪录,同时也验证了这两套工具的普适性。解脂耶氏酵母还适用于柚皮素衍生物的生物合成。例如,Yue等22通过筛选高效圣草酚(eriodictyol)合成关键酶F3′H/CPR、优化和增强代谢途径以提高丙二酰辅酶A和柚皮素等前体供应以及建立NADPH再生系统等策略,实现了圣草酚的高水平生产,产量达到了6.8 g/L(表1)。这些研究成果表明,解脂耶氏酵母是一个优秀的黄酮类化合物生物合成平台。
除了上述的柚皮素传统合成途径外,Zhang等71报道了一种可用于柚皮素合成的非核糖体肽合成酶-聚酮酶杂交酶,称作FnsA。FnsA可催化4-香豆酸或对羟基苯甲酸与3分子丙二酰辅酶A反应参与合成柚皮素。该杂交酶的发现为柚皮素的生物合成路线提供了一种替代方案。在生物合成黄酮类化合物领域,探索并应用新型酶机制或许是一个值得深入研究的方向。对于利用细胞工厂生物合成黄酮类化合物,研究人员并没有局限于传统工程菌株,他们还在众多非传统微生物细胞工厂中开发了柚皮素的从头合成途径或从4-香豆酸生成柚皮素的途径,如含油丝状真菌毛霉菌(Mucor circinelloides)、丝状真菌红青霉菌(Penicillium rubens)、原核细菌链霉菌(Streptomyces clavuligerus)等23-25表1)。
近期,芹菜素、木樨草素、黄芩素(baicalein)等黄酮类化合物的生物合成也取得了一定的进展。黄酮合酶(flavone synthase, FNS)是参与合成黄酮的关键酶,可以催化黄烷酮中间3-碳杂环的C-2和C-3之间形成双键,生成黄酮72。例如,FNS可催化柚皮素、甘草素(liquiritigenin)和圣草酚分别转化为芹菜素、7,4′-二羟基黄酮(7,4′- dihydroxyflavon)和木樨草素;还可以通过黄烷酮- 3′-羟化酶(flavanone 3′-β-hydroxyalse, F3′H)催化芹菜素羟化生成木樨草素73-74图1)。FNS可以分为两类:黄酮合酶Ⅰ(FNSⅠ)和黄酮合酶Ⅱ(FNSⅡ),其中FNSⅠs是可溶性Fe2+/2-氧代戊二烯和依赖型双加氧酶,FNSⅡs是NADPH依赖型细胞色素P450单加氧酶(cytochrome P450 reductase, CPR)13。在异源表达时,大多数FNSⅡ表现出与FNSⅠ相似的催化机制,可直接将黄烷酮转化为黄酮,而一些FNSⅡ可催化黄烷酮形成2-羟基黄烷酮中间体,作为C-糖基转移酶(C-glycosyltransferase, CGT)的底物75。基于黄酮合酶等关键酶元件的深入研究,许多黄酮,如芹菜素、木樨草素、黄芩素已经在多种微生物细胞工厂中实现了从头合成。Marín等74在白链霉菌(Streptomyces albus)中实现了芹菜素和木樨草素的从头合成,但产量极低,分别为0.089 mg/L和0.09 mg/L。相较之下,Marsan等27通过产油酵母解脂耶氏酵母作为产柚皮素的底盘生物与表达FNS的大肠杆菌共培养,使得从葡萄糖合成芹菜素的产量显著提升了约1900倍,最终产量达168 mg/L。除此之外,相关研究人员还采用了优化细胞密度和诱导速率、补充辅因子以及高通量筛选获得高效突变体等方式来优化黄酮的合成过程。例如,Xu等28在酿酒酵母中建立了白杨素(chrysin)的从头合成途径,通过过表达莽草酸途径和酪氨酸通路基因来增强前体供应,并通过降低CHS混杂性来增加产量,最终白杨素从头合成的产量为41.9 mg/L,是迄今为止报道的最高产量(表1)。即便如此,这些黄酮的产量仍较低,不足以满足工业生产和市场需求。进一步,可从挖掘和修饰黄酮合成关键酶(例如CHS、CHI和FNS等)、构建和优化代谢途径以及调整和疏通代谢网络等方面着手,提升黄酮类化合物生物合成的效率。例如,Yan等76从芹菜叶片中分离出一个R2R3-MTB转录因子可调控编码AgMYB1基因,参与芹菜素生产的正调控,用于芹菜素细胞工厂优化。
黄酮类化合物的发色团可增强光吸收,特别是紫外光和蓝光,从而减少UVB造成的氧化应激损伤和诱导的色素沉着77-78。因此,黄酮类化合物在强化面部屏障和预防面部衰老方面发挥着重要作用。芦丁(rutin),属于黄酮醇类,是一种槲皮素葡萄糖和鼠李糖两步糖基化的衍生物(图3),兼备了广泛的药理学活性和高抗氧化能力,是黄酮类化合物中具备防晒抗衰老功能的代表性物质79。具体说来,芦丁有紫外线过滤的生物活性,能够保护细胞免受紫外伤害。据报道,当往防晒霜中添加芦丁时,防晒霜自由基清除能力增加了40%,防晒系数(sun protection factor, SPF)显著提高约70%80。这与芦丁可参与调节Nrf2信号通路,激活细胞抗氧化功能有关,芦丁可作为清除剂直接清除ROS,并转化为相应的醌,减少紫外线诱导的氧化应激伤害,这赋予了它修复由紫外线导致的皮肤损伤和皮肤衰老的能力81-83。除此之外,芦丁在预防和减轻皮肤衰老方面的效果也不容小觑。研究证实芦丁可通过调节细胞外基质中的Ⅰ型胶原α1(collagen typeⅠalpha 1 chain, COL1A1)的mRNA表达量上升和金属肽酶1(matrix metallopeptidase 1, MMP1)mRNA表达量下降来增强皮肤的密度和弹性、减少皱纹,从而减缓皮肤老化84。除了芦丁,Micek等85研究发现,含3%紫杉叶素(二氢槲皮素,taxifolin)的乳膏面霜也能有效恢复皮肤黏弹性,并改善皮肤衰老和色素过度沉着症状。
黄酮醇的生物合成包括以下步骤:柚皮素在黄烷酮-3-羟化酶(flavanone 3-β-hydroxyalse, F3H)、F3′H和黄烷酮-3′5′-羟化酶(flavanone 3′5′-β-hydroxyalse, F3′5′H)等酶组合催化下可转化成二氢山柰酚(dihydrokaempferol)、二氢槲皮素和二氢杨梅素(dihydromyricetin)。二氢黄酮醇是黄酮醇天然合成途径中的重要中间代谢物,随后在黄酮醇合酶(flavonol synthase, FLS)的催化下在3-碳杂环的C-2和C-3之间形成双键,转化为黄酮醇。在FLS的作用下二氢山柰酚、二氢槲皮素和二氢杨梅素对应转化为山柰酚(kaempferol)、槲皮素和杨梅素86。黄酮醇通过各类修饰酶的作用下进一步转化成各种黄酮醇衍生物87。糖基化通常是植物中天然产物合成的最后步骤之一,随着分子生物学的发展,越来越多的UDP-糖基转移酶(UDP-glycosyltransferase, UGT)被克隆和表征。例如,Gan等79从茄子(Solanum melongena)的约200个UGT候选基因中鉴定出SmUGT89B2基因,该基因参与芦丁的生物合成,合成槲皮素-3-O-葡萄糖苷(isoquercitrin)。然而,Ren等88从巴西芽孢杆菌ATCC 7159(Beauveria bassiana ATCC 7159)中鉴定出一种高度通用的葡萄糖基转移酶(BbGT),并将该酶在不同微生物宿主中异源表达,去催化槲皮素糖基化反应。结果表明,该酶在酿酒酵母中主要催化生成槲皮素-3-O-葡萄糖苷,但在在大肠杆菌、恶臭假单胞菌中更倾向于将槲皮素转化成槲皮素-7-O-葡萄糖苷,造成这种差异的原因还有待进一步探究。对于第二步鼠李糖糖基化,Xu等89从芦丁含量丰富的鞑靼荞麦(Fagopyrum tataricum)中鉴定出一种糖基转移酶FtUGT79A15,有鼠李糖基转移酶活性,可催化槲皮素-3-O-葡萄糖苷转化成芦丁,是决定鞑靼荞麦中芦丁积累量的重要酶。
克隆并鉴定合成黄酮醇的关键酶是实现黄酮醇生物合成的第一步,研究人员还进行了大量实验以实现黄酮醇的异源合成。Lyu等29通过基因筛选、去除苯乙醇生物合成途径分支和优化核心黄酮醇合成途径等多种策略在酿酒酵母中构建了从头合成山柰酚的细胞工厂,最终产量为86 mg/L。Marín等30在白链霉菌和灰霉菌(Streptomyces coelicolor)中首次实现了杨梅素(myricetin)、山柰酚和槲皮素的从头合成,虽然产量极低,如槲皮素的产量仅有0.1 mg/L,但为在放线菌中合成黄酮类化合物提供了可能性。而Rodriguez等31在传统工程菌酿酒酵母中从头合成槲皮素的产量显著提高,约为20 mg/L,但远未达到工业化的需求(表1)。这可能是4CL活性较低导致中间体4-香豆酸大量积累,前体丙二酰辅酶A供应不足,以及多步合成途径中代谢流量不平衡等多重因素共同作用的结果。Tartik等32通过筛选和优化关键酶组合,在酿酒酵母中成功重构了山柰酚和槲皮素的合成途径。同时,他们通过引入并过表达乙酰辅酶A羧化酶(acetyl-CoA carboxylase, Acc1)的突变体Acc1S659A, S1157A,显著提高了丙二酰辅酶A的生物合成,从而有效缓解了丙二酰辅酶A供应不足的问题。最后,研究者采用补料分批发酵进一步提高了山柰酚和槲皮素的生物合成产量,分别为956 mg/L和930 mg/L。这些成果为山柰酚、槲皮素及其衍生物的生物合成研究提供了一定的参考价值。在探究芦丁的生物合成过程中,An等33巧妙地调控了UGT的表达,以减轻槲皮素-3-O-葡萄糖苷积累对后续糖基化步骤的抑制效应,从而促进槲皮素经过两步连续的糖基化反应高效转化为芦丁。具体策略包括将来自枯草芽孢杆菌的BcGT1基因整合到大肠杆菌染色体,以此降低其表达水平,并在质粒中表达鼠李糖转移酶Fg2和鼠李糖合成酶2(rhamnose synthase 2, RHM2)。最后,通过优化基因拷贝数、表达水平以及培养条件,研究团队成功实现了芦丁的高效合成,获得了119.8 mg/L的芦丁产量,并实现了接近98%的高转化率。该研究不仅展示了合成生物学在合成复杂植物次生代谢产物方面的潜力,而且为未来生产高附加值的二糖苷黄酮类化合物提供了新的策略和方法。
尽管目前通过外源添加槲皮素已成功实现了芦丁的合成,然而,实现芦丁的从头合成所面临的挑战是多维且复杂的。一个主要的挑战是前体槲皮素供应不足。槲皮素作为芦丁生物合成的关键前体,其从头合成的产量尚未达到能够支持芦丁合成过程的水平。芦丁的生物合成不仅涉及核心结构的构建,还包括后续的糖基化修饰等步骤。然而,目前报道的可用于芦丁合成的后修饰酶仍较少,特别是相关酶的底物特异性和酶活性等关键特性尚未得到充分表征,这限制了芦丁的从头合成90。未来可从提高细胞中槲皮素的可用性以及挖掘和表征更多可用的UGT两方面着手突破,实现芦丁的从头合成。
黄酮类化合物尤其是花青素色彩丰富,可作为天然着色剂替代含重金属等有害物的合成染料。花青素是一类天然的水溶性色素,呈现的颜色主要取决于B环上羟基的数量,在植物中大多表现为红色、橙色、紫色和蓝色91。其颜色主要受到pH影响,在pH为1的水溶液中多呈现红色,pH介于2~4时,表现为蓝色,pH在5~6时则没有明显的颜色倾向,多为无色,当pH高于7时,花青素因不稳定性增加,较易发生分解(图4),因而被广泛应用到化妆品的调色中92。将花青素作为着色剂添加进染发剂配方中,例如,通过与头发中的阳离子结合和其他黄酮类化合物物质产生共同色素沉着效应,形成醌类化合物并吸附在发丝上,且与头发结合得较为稳定,12次清洗后仅有10%染料被洗脱93。此外,花青素还可被添加进面部磨砂膏、沐浴露、润唇膏和口红等化妆品中。一些化妆品品牌,如妮维雅、欧莱雅,通过向产品中添加富含黄酮类化合物的植物提取物来对其进行调色,并提高产品的天然性和安全性94
花青素由二氢黄酮醇4-还原酶(dihydroflavonol 4-reductase, DFR)和花青素合酶(anthocyanidin synthase, ANS)催化二氢黄酮醇转化合成。DFR的作用是催化二氢黄酮醇3-碳杂环上的C-4位羟基化生成白花青素;ANS的作用是将无色的白花青素转化为有色的花青素9195-96图1)。花青素的结构由F3′H和F3′5′H决定,因为它们催化二氢黄酮醇羟化,决定了花青素B环的羟基化模式,进而决定了花青素结构。进一步,不稳定的花青素会在黄酮类化合物3-O-葡萄糖基转移酶(flavonoid 3-O-glycosyltransferase, UF3GT)、甲基转移酶和酰基转移酶等修饰酶的催化下转化成各种较稳定的花青素衍生物97-98。近年来,利用微生物异源表达构建花青素合成途径,已成为提升花青素产量的一种高效生物技术手段。据报道,通过在大肠杆菌中添加儿茶酚和葡萄糖获得了矢车菊素3-O-葡萄糖苷(cyanidin-3-O-glucoside chloride, C3G),产量达到了439 mg/L34。此外,有研究者在单一酵母细胞中构建了完整花青素合成途径,并实现了多种常见花青素的从头合成,其中,天竺葵素3-O-葡萄糖苷(pelargonidin-3-O-glucoside, P3G)0.85 mg/L、C3G 1.55 mg/L和飞燕草素3-O-葡萄糖苷(delphinidin-3-O-glucoside,D3G)1.86 mg/L99-100。Du等35设计了一种酿酒酵母共培养体系,并利用该体系在摇瓶中从头合成了3种黄酮醇和2种花青素,其中天竺葵素(pelargonidin chloride)的从头合成产量约为33 mg/L。Xu等36通过在酿酒酵母中引入花青素转运蛋白MdGSTF6、筛选关键酶以及敲除花青素内源性降解酶,实现了花青素的高效从头合成,总产量达到15.1 mg/L,包括8.0 mg/L C3G、3.5 mg/L D3G、3.0 mg/L矢车菊素(cyanidin, CYA)和0.7 mg/L飞燕草素(delphinidin, DEL)。该研究表明,通过代谢工程策略,花青素产量已实现了数十倍的提升,未来研究可进一步优化生物合成途径,以提高特定花青素的产量,从而降低后续分离纯化过程的难度和成本。
虽然已经能够异源合成一些花青素,产量仍有较大提升空间。低产的原因之一为生产途径较长且限速步骤较多,如CHS、CHI、DFR和ANS均为限速酶,这些酶在酿酒酵母等工程菌中的效率较低100-101。另一个原因为副产物较多,如在P3G合成途径中,约30%的山柰酚会被UF3GT糖基化生产山柰酚3-O-葡萄糖苷(kaempferol-3-O-glucoside, K3G),而只有10%的天竺葵素被糖基化生成目标产物P3G101-102。针对这些问题,可采用多维策略提升花青素产量。例如,使用各黄酮类化合物的共培养体系以减轻合成途径过长对菌株的压力。另外,使用更高效的启动子也是提高工程菌中花青素产量的极好策略。例如,在谷氨酸衣原体中被广泛使用的强组成型启动子eftusod不适用于谷氨酸衣原体中的花青素异源生产。这是由于它们驱动的ANS和UF3GT的强表达会给细胞带来严重的代谢负担,从而导致代谢通路失衡,限制花青素的产生。而使用tac启动子则可大大增加花青素C3G的产生,再经过优化工艺和提高UDP-葡萄糖供应,C3G产量约40 mg/L,是起始菌株产量的100倍102。此外,还可通过基因编辑、密码子优化、优化培养条件和抑制花青素降解途径等多重策略提高花青素产量。
黄酮类化合物普遍具有水溶性差的特点,这极大地限制了它们的应用。例如,根皮素的溶解度不到0.1 mg/mL,而柚皮素的口服生物利用度仅为5.8%,这限制了它们的临床应用和治疗效果103-104。为了克服这些限制,研究人员采用了纳米载体技术,包括纳米晶体、壳聚糖纳米颗粒、脂质纳米颗粒和聚合物纳米胶囊,以提高黄酮类化合物的溶解度和皮肤渗透性47105-107。此外,免疫调节纳米颗粒的开发,如搭载柚皮素的纳米颗粒,通过靶向NF-κB信号通路调节炎症反应,并通过抑制细菌群体效应来阻止生物膜的形成,从抗炎、抗菌和免疫调节三方面展示了柚皮素对促进受感染皮肤愈合的优良治疗效果108。在防晒霜配方中引入芦丁水合物甘油小体纳米防晒凝胶,显著增强了制剂对皮肤的渗透能力,同时提升了其抗氧化活性和SPF值。这种改进使得芦丁在皮肤表皮层的保留时间延长,从而为皮肤提供了更为持久的保护效果109。β-环糊精(β-cyclodextrin, β-CD),尤其是2-羟基丙基-β-环糊精(hydroxypropyl-β- cyclodextrin, HP-β-CD)和黄丁基醚-β-环糊精(sulfobutylether-β-cyclodextrin, SBE-β-CD),与黄酮类化合物络合,显著提高了这些化合物在水中的溶解度,并增强了其稳定性109-112。在对比实验中,HP-β-CD对根皮素的增容能力最强,根皮素与HP-β-CD复合物的溶解度约为游离根皮素的5800倍,稳定性也得到了极大提高,根皮素的构象灵活性在其中也发挥了关键作用113-115。水凝胶载药体系的应用,如柚皮素/水凝胶载药体系,已被证实能够促进真皮伤口修复116。同时,含有柚皮素/β-CD包涵体的壳聚糖水凝胶伤口敷料不仅促进了伤口愈合,还提高了柚皮素的水溶性和生物利用度117。除此之外,基团修饰也是一种改善黄酮类化合物溶解性的重要手段118。研究表明,牡荆素-4′-O-β-葡萄糖苷和牡荆素-5-O-β-葡萄糖苷具有比原始牡荆素更高的水溶性,分别提升了约25倍和20倍119。综上,这些研究成果为黄酮类化合物在修复类、防晒类和抗氧化类化妆品中的应用开辟了新的可能性。
限制黄酮类化合物(尤其是花青素)在化妆品中应用的另一个因素是黄酮类化合物的性质不稳定,易受光照、溶液pH和温度等环境因素的影响120。针对不稳定性问题,研究者采用了分子修饰、微胶囊化和脂质体制备等方法。例如,蓝莓花青素微胶囊和脂质体均能提升蓝莓花青素的光稳定性和热稳定性121。基于蛋白质/肽的纳米制度也是提升花青素稳定性的有前途的方法,尽管这一领域的研究相对较新,仍有许多未知问题和作用机制待进一步探究122。这些策略的应用显著提升了黄酮类化合物在化妆品、药物递送和功能性食品等领域的应用潜力。
随着消费者对化妆品成分的天然性、安全性和功能性的日益关注,黄酮类化合物因其丰富的生物活性和多重功效而备受青睐。将黄酮类化合物引入化妆品可以在简化化妆品配方的同时,实现多种护肤功效,如抗氧化、抗衰老、抗紫外线、抗菌、美白和皮肤修复等。黄酮类化合物通过多种机制发挥作用,如清除自由基、激活抗氧化防御系统、抑制炎症介质和氧化酶等。这些化合物在化妆品中的应用前景广阔,尤其是在追求天然和健康护肤产品的市场中。然而,黄酮类化合物在化妆品中的实际应用面临一些挑战,包括水溶性差、稳定性低和生物利用度有限。为了克服这些问题,研究人员已经开发了多种策略,如纳米技术、环糊精包合物和化学修饰,以最大程度地在化妆品中发挥其功效。
在生物合成方面,合成生物学的发展为黄酮类化合物的生产提供了新机遇。基于代谢工程和基因编辑等技术,已经在微生物工厂中实现了多种黄酮类化合物的高效生物合成。例如,在大肠杆菌和酿酒酵母中已经实现了柚皮素、圣草酚、芹菜素、山柰酚、槲皮素和矢车菊素等多种常见黄酮类化合物。在可高效积累丙二酰辅酶A的解脂耶氏酵母中更是实现了8.3 g/L柚皮素和6.8 g/L圣草酚的高产21-22
然而,复杂黄酮类化合物仍难以实现高产量合成。这主要存在两个挑战:关键酶工程改造困难和代谢通量不平衡。可获取的精确蛋白质结构是蛋白质工程和酶改造工程的基础123。近期,DeepMind团队开发了一个更具革命性的深度学习模型AlphaFold 3(AF3),它能够以前所未有的准确性预测包括蛋白质、核酸、小分子和修饰残基在内的生物分子复合物的三维结构124。这一突破性研究成果为酶的定向进化和理性设计、酶的稳定性和适应性改造以及多酶复合物的设计和优化等酶改造工程领域提供了一个强大的计算平台,有助于推动黄酮类化合物生物合成产量提升和工业化发展。另外,可以通过代谢组学和代谢通量分析获取细胞内黄酮类化合物合成的分子机制,并结合动态网络调控手段精确控制和优化黄酮类化合物合成途径,减少副产物或非途径黄酮类化合物的生成,以实现目标黄酮类化合物的高效生产125-127。例如,Zhou等26设计了一个三层动态调控网络,通过实时调控细胞内丙二酰辅酶A的供应,将大肠杆菌中柚皮素产量显著提高近9倍,实现了细胞生长与产物合成之间的有效平衡。
在未来的研究中,科研人员需系统地评估黄酮类化合物在化妆品应用中的安全性与有效性,深入研究这些化合物在不同肤质和人群中的作用机制以及它们对皮肤健康的长期影响。同时,研究亦可着眼于黄酮类化合物与其他活性成分之间的协调效应。通过研究这些成分的相互作用,可以开发出更高效、更有针对性的化妆品配方,以应对各种皮肤问题,如老化、色素沉着、痤疮和皮肤敏感。随着合成生物学和纳米技术的发展,预期将有更多的黄酮类化合物被应用于化妆品中,为消费者提供更安全、有效的护肤方案。
  • 国家自然科学基金(22078011)
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2025年第6卷第2期
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doi: 10.12211/2096-8280.2024-058
  • 接收时间:2024-07-31
  • 首发时间:2025-07-06
  • 出版时间:2025-04-30
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  • 收稿日期:2024-07-31
  • 修回日期:2024-10-26
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国家自然科学基金(22078011)
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    北京化工大学化工资源有效利用全国重点实验室,北京 100029

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申晓林(1984—),女,博士,教授。研究方向为代谢工程及合成生物学。E-mail:
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2种不同金属材料的力学参数

Family
属数
Number of
genus
种数
Number of
species
占总种数比例
Percentage of
total species (%)

Genus
种数
Number of
species
占总种数比例
Percentage of total
species (%)
鹅膏菌科Amanitaceae 2 11 5.26 鹅膏菌属 Amanita 10 4.78
小菇科 Mycenaceae 2 12 5.74 丝盖伞属 Inocybe 5 2.39
多孔菌科 Polyporaceae 8 14 6.70 蜡蘑属 Laccaria 5 2.39
红菇科 Russulaceae 3 23 11.00 小皮伞属 Marasmius 6 2.87
小菇属 Mycena 11 5.26
光柄菇属 Pluteus 5 2.39
红菇属 Russula 17 8.13
栓菌属 Trametes 5 2.39
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